Residents in the Plymouth

[Alaska48]

After central52's post about removing the old seat covers to unveil mint seats, and since i'm waiting to find an 8volt battery somewhere in a 300 mile radius, I decided to tear off my seat covers too to see the condition of the seats.... Not too bad, they look a little faded on the top and there's a small tear in the back seat, but to top it off, when I removed my seats to clean up underneath, I find a little mouse nesting area... I was a little nervous to find anything living but figured its been sitting outside all winter so what could possibly go wrong... Vaccuming up the nest all of the sudden the vaccum clogs... I pull it off and I have half a bone/fur mouse carcass stuck in the vaccum hose. Tried to man up, just pulled it out and kept going, found another one, full skeleton... it was a lot to take, but I kept telling myself it comes with the territory of an old car thats been sitting a while...

Then I got excited as I got to see all of the history stuff from pulling the seats out. I found a really old clothes pin, my grandparents used to air dry their clothes outside in Washington so that was sentimental to find, then there was a cool looking old school blue tag on the seat that said "Airfoam super cushioning Goodyear" there was also a production tag from 12/27/1948 from National Automotive Fibres inc..... I know, i'm easily entertained....

Also I decided to wash my non-running rusty car in the garage, we got 18 inches of snow on Friday, which is even unusual for Alaska this late in the year, so I couldn't do it outside... just made me feel better to have a clean car than a dirty car....

I'm hoping tomorrow to track down my 8v tomorrow, I found a specialty battery shop in town, so we'll see

[David Maxwell]

...on the P15. The attached thumbnail is an ad which touts the "Pillow Ride" of the P15 with Air Foam cushioned seats.

[PatS....]

Too late now, but dried mouse urine and droppings may contain the hantavirus and one of the things that is strongly discouraged is vacuuming an area where mouse droppings are, especially indoors as it disperses the potential virus through the vacuum and into the air making it that much easier to contract this deadly disease.

Just a note for next time and for any others who were unaware of the potential dangers from mouse droppings/dried urine.

[Norm's Coupe]

Welcome to the joys of cleaning out an old car that's been sitting for years. You'll probably find more nests behind the door panels, side panels and kick panels. If you ever decide to remove and replace the headliner, better to remove the seats first. Then stand outside the car and cut the headliner out and pull it out while you stand outside. You'll find all sorts of critter food and maybe another nest or two up there.

I did a little research on the hantavirus. It is mostly found in mice from the southern part of the US and south of there. According to what I read it is not that common to find the hantavirus in northern mice. Since the car was always in Alaska there shouldn't be a problem. Always best to wear a mask and gloves though and work outside the garage.

[Don Coatney]

Why are you buying an 8 volt battery? If your car starter would not spin on 6 volts it will not spin on 8 volts until you find out and fix the problem. The cars charging system will not effectively charge an 8 volt battery unless it has been modified to do so. Just because there was an 8 volt battery in the car when you found it does not mean that is what you need.

[Alaska48]

Why are you buying an 8 volt battery? If your car starter would not spin on 6 volts it will not spin on 8 volts until you find out and fix the problem. The cars charging system will not effectively charge an 8 volt battery unless it has been modified to do so. Just because there was an 8 volt battery in the car when you found it does not mean that is what you need.

I did everything I could think of to work with the 6 volt I bought... I even replaced the battery terminals and cables (1 gauge wire) The car ran and drove fine with the 8 volt six years ago, I can only assume that that is my problem since 6 wasn't happening now and 8 was fine when I ran it back in the day.... It just wont get the juice to the car at all.... I also don't want to wuss out and take it to a mechanic... I'm trying very hard to do it myself... I can't figure out what else it would be other than since it ran on 8 the 6 volt won't work because of the conversion

[PatS....]

Taking it to a mechanic sure isn't wussing out, if you have never turned a wrench on a car this particular problem might be very discouraging. It is a common discussion on this board of mostly more experienced guys. Lots of no-start brainstorming all the time.

If there is an older mechanic around familiar with the older six volt cars, take advantage of his experience, watch very closely what he does and ask questions.

Trust me, there will be plenty of things that you can work through yourself once the old girl is running.

Were rootin' for ya

[BobT-47P15]

Just an additional thought.....since your car is so original, you might find

the build card tucked into the back side of the rear seat back. I think

that's where they usually put them. It gives certain info about the car

as it was manufactured.

[Alaska48]

Too late now, but dried mouse urine and droppings may contain the hantavirus and one of the things that is strongly discouraged is vacuuming an area where mouse droppings are, especially indoors as it disperses the potential virus through the vacuum and into the air making it that much easier to contract this deadly disease.

Just a note for next time and for any others who were unaware of the potential dangers from mouse droppings/dried urine.

I gotta admit, you scared the sh** outta me, I am going to be a lot more careful in cleaning up my car, regardless of what kind of mouse it was I should still be taking careful precautions, I do doubt it was a "hpv" carrying mouse after going through about 20-30 HPV sites.... but you never know.... I'll be sure that if I die froom this that I will put in my Will that my Plymouth be parted out for free to the surviving members of P15-D24.com

[PatS....]

Well, I guess you have to put it in perspective. While I'm sure that hantavirus has been around for a very long time, the dangers have only been well known for a few years.

Over the years I have cleaned out 2 dozen old cars full of mouse turd and not only didn't wear a mask, but it never even remotely crossed my mind. I'm sure every other person here has done the same. We survived just fine I guess

I'm just not willing to take the chance now that I know the risk. I'm older now and I have quite enough wrong with this abused body without adding another.

[Don Coatney]

I can't figure out what else it would be other than since it ran on 8 the 6 volt won't work because of the conversion

Installing an 8 volt battery will not fix your problem. Save the money and as others have said find an old mechanic or find others who have old cars in your city and seek there assistance.

[bobby horne]

I installed a 6 volt battery with more amps that normal in my 1949 Plymouth along with new cables....The extra amps is a 6 volt will do as good a job as an 8 volt with less amps....I bought my battery at a farm store where I buy my oil filters.........

[oldmopar]

I did everything I could think of to work with the 6 volt I bought... I even replaced the battery terminals and cables (1 gauge wire) The car ran and drove fine with the 8 volt six years ago, I can only assume that that is my problem since 6 wasn't happening now and 8 was fine when I ran it back in the day.... It just wont get the juice to the car at all.... I also don't want to wuss out and take it to a mechanic... I'm trying very hard to do it myself... I can't figure out what else it would be other than since it ran on 8 the 6 volt won't work because of the conversion

If you are having a problem cranking the engine you could relocate the ground closer to the starter on the frame and add a ground from the engine to the frame. Once the car is running the battery is not needed as the generator should be supplying the power so if you have a problem once its running changing the battery would not solve the problem.

Ed

[greg g]

since you did some reshearch regarding the haunta virus deal, why not do some on basic vehicle electrics and troubleshooting. The starting and ignition systems in thes cars is pretty simple, and is easily jumped to bypass possible trouble spots.

I second the suggestion that you reinstall a good 6 volt battery. Then install it in the car and do a basic system trouble shooting of the system.

Assure the battery is installed with Positive terminal connected to the ground strap.

Items needed, basic hand tools, a voltage meter or basic circuit probe, and a length (about 6 feet) of 12 gauge insulated wire with aligator clips on each end.

Connect the negative cable to the battery, then connect the other end to the large front post of the solenoid. Now with a simple voltage tester or test light, assure ther is current from this connection to the engine, a head bolt works fine. This will establish that there is power to the solenoid and that a good ground exists.

Now connect the output terminal of the solenoid (the rear one) to ground with the circuit tester or volt meter. There should be no power present. Now connect the jumper wire to the small center post of the solenoid. Briefly touch the other end of the jumper wire to the negative battery terminal. ( this bypasses the starter button and should energize the solenoid, as shown by the light on the circuit probe, or a reading on the volt meter. This will show that the solenoid is working properly to provide poewr to the starter,

Now connect the secondary large cable to the output terminal, and without attaching it to the starter, perform the same test with the test tool between the end of the cable and ground. If you get power you are assured the starter will get power.

You can, after all the cables are connected and with the car in neutral, energize the solenoid again with the jumper wire to see if the starter will now engage and turn the engine over, If it does you now know your starter circuit is in working condition. If the starter does not spin, then the starter is at fault.

At this point check that the starter is grounded correctly by attaching the jumper wire through the circuit tester to from the body of the starter to the negative post of the battery. If it indicates current you know the starter is grounded. If no power. clean and tighten the starter to engine bolts. If the starter still doesn't turn, then it has an internal problem, usually worn brushes.

these are easily installed once the starter is removed.

If you are good to go the next step is to assure the ignition switch is recieving power, and the starter button is getting power.

If they are you have a correctly working starter circuit.

We can do the ignition system in the next chapter.

[mchev150]

I also found a couple of nests in the frame of the Wayfarer I recently purchased.

[Norm's Coupe]

Greg,

That was me that said they did the research on the haunta virus. not Alaska48. According to what I read the cold weather kills the virus in the cold climates.

As for the 6 volt vs the 8 volts thing. I agree with you and Don. No reason why the six volt won't handle starting the car unless something is wrong in the system.

The following is for Alaska 48.

It could be that nothing is wrong with your starting system at all, especially if you are comparing the spinning of the starter to modern cars or with old ones using an 8 volt or 12 volt system.

The six volt starter will turn much slower than the 8 and 12 volt systems do, even when in perfect working order. It might be that you are simply not using the correct starting procedure with the 6 volt system, therefore the car doesn't start.

Correct starting procedure is shown in the copies of pages from the owners manual below. To read them just click on the thumbnail.

This is what I meant in a previous post about buying the service manual and an owners manual. It has this type of info in it. The service manual also has trouble shooting in it. By reading it as you go, it's a lot better than us trying to figure out exactly what the trouble is since we're not there at the time. All we can do is give you a bunch of different idea's based on experience. What we say won't necessarily help you that fast. With the book by your side you could have it figured out in a couple of hours or less, instead of days or longer here on the forum.

Not trying to tell you not ask questions, thats what the forum is really for. But..........it will make life much easier for you with the books, then only ask a question when you've tried it all and are still stumped. The books will also help you understand your car much better.

[kevinanderson]

I haven't been following these posts that close, but alaska48, does it make any noise when you try to engage the starter?

[Alaska48]

I haven't even gotten to the attempted start part. I was following the logic greg_g pointed out about seeing a slight draw from the amp gauge by turning the ignigion key, then when that doesn't work I try the lights which also don't work or effect the amp gauge. After no effect there I take a shot in the dark anyway and I push the start button with a continued lack of effect....

In my own twisted since of reality, since it ran on an 8v before, it is possible the 6v I got from the part store did not have enough CCA or something and if I get an 8v car battery from this store i'm going to tonight, I should be ok. Either way, I have no battery now other than my dead 8v since I returned my 6, so i'll need a battery sooner or later and it may as well be the one that was in the car when it ran. I'm just hoping that the battery is my problem and i'll be good to go. Everyone says i'm wrong, but I can pretend to hold out hope.

I am waiting on both my service manual and owners manual (reproductions but still information...) in the mail off of ebay. So I did buy them, just not here yet.

[Young Ed]

Just hang in there and you will get it. I suspect either that 6v battery you bought was dead or you will have the same issue with the 8v when it comes. You did good by trying the lights. To me that points to the bad battery idea.

[Don Coatney]

Greg' date='

That was me that said they did the research on the haunta virus. not Alaska48. According to what I read the cold weather kills the virus in the cold climates.

As for the 6 volt vs the 8 volts thing. I agree with you and Don. No reason why the six volt won't handle starting the car unless something is wrong in the system.

The following is for Alaska 48.

It could be that nothing is wrong with your starting system at all, especially if you are comparing the spinning of the starter to modern cars or with old ones using an 8 volt or 12 volt system.

The six volt starter will turn much slower than the 8 and 12 volt systems do, even when in perfect working order. It might be that you are simply not using the correct starting procedure with the 6 volt system, therefore the car doesn't start.

Correct starting procedure is shown in the copies of pages from the owners manual below. To read them just click on the thumbnail.

This is what I meant in a previous post about buying the service manual and an owners manual. It has this type of info in it. The service manual also has trouble shooting in it. By reading it as you go, it's a lot better than us trying to figure out exactly what the trouble is since we're not there at the time. All we can do is give you a bunch of different idea's based on experience. What we say won't necessarily help you that fast. With the book by your side you could have it figured out in a couple of hours or less, instead of days or longer here on the forum.

Not trying to tell you not ask questions, thats what the forum is really for. But..........it will make life much easier for you with the books, then only ask a question when you've tried it all and are still stumped. The books will also help you understand your car much better.[/quote']

Norm;

Suggest you start at the top and read all the postings on this thread. Alaska 48 did his own haunta virus research and the starter motor must engage and spin the engine before the starting procedure comes into play.

I haven't even gotten to the attempted start part. I was following the logic greg_g pointed out about seeing a slight draw from the amp gauge by turning the ignigion key, then when that doesn't work I try the lights which also don't work or effect the amp gauge. After no effect there I take a shot in the dark anyway and I push the start button with a continued lack of effect....

In my own twisted since of reality, since it ran on an 8v before, it is possible the 6v I got from the part store did not have enough CCA or something and if I get an 8v car battery from this store i'm going to tonight, I should be ok. Either way, I have no battery now other than my dead 8v since I returned my 6, so i'll need a battery sooner or later and it may as well be the one that was in the car when it ran. I'm just hoping that the battery is my problem and i'll be good to go. Everyone says i'm wrong, but I can pretend to hold out hope.

I am waiting on both my service manual and owners manual (reproductions but still information...) in the mail off of ebay. So I did buy them, just not here yet.

I really hate to see you spending money on things that you dont need but the decision is yours. I will say once again that the 8 volt battery is not the way to go. You need to find out why there is no electrical power to anything when you connect a battery. Greg G spent the time to write very good instructions on how to do this. I suggest you follow his instructions step by step.

[Norm's Coupe]

Those reproduction books are usually just as good as the originals. Most of them are just copies. They will come in handy.

Once you have a known good battery and still nothing, then it will be a matter of checking out the wiring circuits one by one. It is possible one of the pets that were in the car chewed through some wiring, or a wire or two just went bad. If you don't have one, you should probably pick up an inexpensive volt/ohm meter. That will help you check out the wiring if needed.

[Norm's Coupe]

Don,

If you check the times on the post I made about the virus, it was before Alaska 48 said he did his own research. I posted my post right after Pat did.

[Alaska48]

so I suppose we need to research the thread to see who did the research

In my VERY unprofessional opinion, I had a crappy 6v that was either dead or too small, and with a good 8v auto battery in place, I will be driving around in the snow in no time. I wonder how a p15 would do in the snow....

[Don Coatney]

so I suppose we need to research the thread to see who did the research

In my VERY unprofessional opinion, I had a crappy 6v that was either dead or too small, and with a good 8v auto battery in place, I will be driving around in the snow in no time. I wonder how a p15 would do in the snow....

Best of luck on your project.

[Young Ed]

Mine drove through this with no problems