BW overdrive: hard to activate

[sjaakslinger]

Question for the od experts. I have a r10g in my '47 Plymouth. All hooked up correctly, in general working fine except for 1 issue.

 

It doesn't activate around the 30mph when going off the throttle. I have to accelerate up to around 35mph before that works. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 attempts: decelerating and accelerating again.

 

Is there anything to adjust there? 

 

Dennis

[kencombs]

It just sounds like your trying to shift right at the edge of the governor's speed setting.   I don't recall the specific setting but I think 35 is what mine worked at most reliably.   Been years since I drove one.   Or, the points in the governor may need cleaning.  OTOH, maybe the speedometer is showing an inaccurate speed. 

 

Does it shift in OD reliably above 35?  If so, I'd just continue to drive it and shift at that point.

[sjaakslinger]

I understood the activation speed was around 27mph. I'll check the speedometer first with a gps reading, could be it. Thanks. Though the RPM around 35mph seems pretty high in 2nd....

[Mark D]

Governor kicks in at 28mph, on the several I’ve rebuilt they all engage about the same speed. I’ve always wired them to shift rite switch’s myself. I can push the shift rite button which activates the circuit sending power to the solenoid as soon as I rev it up past the 28mph mark. 

[sjaakslinger]

What determines the 28mph...the governor, the relay? Anything to clean or adjust?

[Mark D]

3 minutes ago, sjaakslinger said:

What determines the 28mph...the governor, the relay? Anything to clean or adjust?

the governor is comprised of a fly weights that spring out against a set of pretensioned springs. When they swing out the close the circuit allowing ground to happen through the lock out switch. 
 

So, if the lock out switch is enabled (circuit closed) and the governor reaches speed and also closes circuit, it completes the activation circuit for the solenoid and the pall should engage the planetary thus reducing output revs by 1/3rd.

 

Theres been lots of discussion on the circuit and it took me forever and a day when I first started playing with these OD’s, to figure it all out. So you’re not alone. 
 

I’d take the governor off the OD and open it up, (four screws on the cap), and clean the contacts and interior. Then double check all of your connections. Make sure you’re getting good amps to the solenoid also (#10 wire at least).

 

Just had mine out and on the bench this past weekend for rear seal replacement and some inspection. 

 

[sjaakslinger]

Thanks a lot. I will do that with the governor!

 

Dennis

[Loren]

If your governor is iffy, you might consider a nos replacement. The Studebaker was the most prolific user and if you look on eBay you can find them for around $125 or less. They are made with old technology ( breaker points ) which can get dust in them ( which turns to glass when heated by opening and closing ) and they need to be cleaned every half century or so. lol 

[greg g]

What gauge wire is used on the solenoid to relay connection?  Are the connections clesn and tight? Are your lockout cable connections clean, tight? If you are talking 6v the ground connect89ns are just as critical as the wire size going in.

[Loren]

For the supply to the relay, for the relay to the solenoid use 10 gauge ( post #4 )

For everything else you can use 14 gauge.

There is a notation in the manual that from the Governor to the lockout switch is 10 gauge but that makes no sense as the wire on the other side of the switch is 14 ( the manual says 16 but 14 is more common in automotive use )

I go so far as to color code them from the manual.

[greg g]

Mine doesnt cut in till 42 43 mph thought I read some place that factory was 35 mph.  I only use mine on the open road so the higher cut in isnt a worryjust had a discussion where the merits of enging on a nice level cruise speed was reached, or if it was bett to engage while the drive line was under a bit of a load like climbing a slight grade or while srill accelerating.  I believe somebody suggesred George Ashe said under a slight load was preferable. YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY...

Edited Wednesday at 01:23 AM by greg g

[sjaakslinger]

The car was completely rewired by a previous owner. Does look very professional, but I have no clue what gauge wire was used.

[James_Douglas]

What rear gearing are you using. My 1947 Desoto Suburban shifts at different speeds if I have the 3.91 gears or the 4.3 gears.

 

James.

[sjaakslinger]

Good question, no idea actually. I bought the car a few months ago, couldn't find any info yet. I looked at the rear axle for an inscription, but couldn't find any. I'm thinking whatever was stock for a 47 Plymouth.

 

Dennis

[James_Douglas]

It should be stamped on the pad. James

[Loren]

As James says it's on the pad below the fill plug.

Not all look like this in size or location

[Booger]

Plymouth Service Manual rear axle data shows 47 P15 3.9

[sjaakslinger]

Didn't have the chance to put the car on a lift today, but I checked the wiring to and from the relais. Seems 1 wire is clearly thicker than the rest (red one left of the relais).

 

The wiring doesn't seem to be the issue though, seems the speedometer is telling an incorrect speed! I checked the speed with a gps app in mph and when the speedometer indicated around 35mph, I was actually driving around 29mph.... So it seems the overdrive is working correctly.

 

Next Wednesday the car has it's inspection by the dutch 'DMV', so fingers crossed it passes. Can't wait to take the car on the road.

 

Dennis 

[Booger]

Sure Id like to be a member of the R10 club...Impossible to find, and if you find one, tough on the wallet