P15 with a 230 engine valve clearance "COLD"

[rcl700]

Happy Saturday! 

Id like to set the valve clearance on my 230 engine. I'm hoping some can provide the recommend "COLD" setting for this engine. I watched member Keith's video on this process but he was working on a larger flathead so I'm unsure if the lash setting are the same. 

 

Thanks in advance. 🔧

[bacelaw]

15 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

Happy Saturday! 

Id like to set the valve clearance on my 230 engine. I'm hoping some can provide the recommend "COLD" setting for this engine. I watched member Keith's video on this process but he was working on a larger flathead so I'm unsure if the lash setting are the same. 

 

Thanks in advance. 🔧

 

 

I think the conventional wisdom is a larger gap cold, especially the exhaust valves.  Add a couple hundredths from the manual specs.  I set them on a non-running, but HOT engine, then double-checked while running - worked well for me.

 

 

[soth122003]

According to the Motors Manual the doge 230 engines valve clearance from 1941-53 are: hot/running engine, .008" intake and .010" exhaust. (1935-40 are .006 I and .008 E and .012" timing) The manual did not list a cold setting, but the manual list a timing clearance as .014, which is basically a cold clearance. This is the base for installing valves/cams after a major repair or rebuild. Set to .014 the run the engine and after it is at running temp adjust them to .008" for intakes and .010" for exhaust. 

 

Most people do one of two things on an engine that has already been used/run/broke in.

1. Run the engine up to temp. Shut off engine and adjust to spec.

2. Set the valve at .002-.003 over the spec cold and run the engine to temp and check the valves and adjust the ones that need it.

Now I have not done this check but after the valves are set hot, you let the engine cool down (24hrs) then check the clearance and see what the difference is between hot and cold and this should be fairly applicable to any other Mopar you work on.

Most of the mechs use option 1 as the least labor intensive option.

Hope this helps.

 

Joe Lee

[9 foot box]

   This is from my P15 service manual. When you do get the engine running and up to operating temperature, let the block cool overnight and retorque the head bolts in the proper sequence. Don’t idle a new engine in the garage for any length of time. Run the RPM’s up to 1600 or so, gradually, and don’t rev the engine when you’re showing off that it starts. Watch your oil pressure and temperature gauges. The real break-in for the engine is when you’re driving down the road. 

[greg g]

45k and nearly 15 years ago, I set the clearance at .012 intake and .014 4xhaust.  Set them dead cold with the rebuilt 56 Plymouth 230 still on the engine still one the

The stand.  Havent touched them since then.  They are getting a little louder than the wife's Singer but I can live with it.

[Young Ed]

43 minutes ago, greg g said:

45k and nearly 15 years ago, I set the clearance at .012 intake and .014 4xhaust.  Set them dead cold with the rebuilt 56 Plymouth 230 still on the engine still one the

The stand.  Havent touched them since then.  They are getting a little louder than the wife's Singer but I can live with it.

I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one like that. My 48s valves were set by the machine shop almost 30k miles ago and haven't been touched since. These posts usually make me wonder if I should actually check them...