First Drive

[Dodger]

I’m finally ready take my 53 Dodge on the road for it’s first drive after 30 years in storage.  It started out as a fun ride but I began to notice that I have issues. I little background first so you know what I’m driving.  It’s an all-original flat head 6, single barrel carb (rebuilt), 3 on the tree, minus the wire insulation that I blew off while pressure washing (blunder). Here are my issues.

1.       Carb – The engine idled great in the garage but after about 20 miles the engine died when pulling up to a light.  It did seem to stay running more when I pulled the choke out about a 1/4 inch on the dash.  At times it also idled very high when stopping so I would tap the gas pedal and it would drop down then die.

2.       Steering – While taking a turn the truck seemed to jerk into a harder turn.  Good thing I had a good grip on the steering wheel.  What might be shifting in the front end?

3.       Temp Gauge – I still don’t have a temp gauge working.  I pulled the tubing out of the engine block and the tubing looked soldered up.  I needle on the gauge doesn’t move at all.

Well, that’s it for now.  I appreciate your feedback on these issues.

[bkahler]

11 minutes ago, Dodger said:

I’m finally ready take my 53 Dodge on the road for it’s first drive after 30 years in storage.  It started out as a fun ride but I began to notice that I have issues. I little background first so you know what I’m driving.  It’s an all-original flat head 6, single barrel carb (rebuilt), 3 on the tree, minus the wire insulation that I blew off while pressure washing (blunder). Here are my issues.

 

1.       Carb – The engine idled great in the garage but after about 20 miles the engine died when pulling up to a light.  It did seem to stay running more when I pulled the choke out about a 1/4 inch on the dash.  At times it also idled very high when stopping so I would tap the gas pedal and it would drop down then die.

 

First thing I would try is adding a can of Sea Foam to the gas tank and going for another drive.  I've found Sea Foam to be an amazing product for gummed up carburetors.

 

11 minutes ago, Dodger said:

2.       Steering – While taking a turn the truck seemed to jerk into a harder turn.  Good thing I had a good grip on the steering wheel.  What might be shifting in the front end?

 

How old and hard are the tires?

 

11 minutes ago, Dodger said:

3.       Temp Gauge – I still don’t have a temp gauge working.  I pulled the tubing out of the engine block and the tubing looked soldered up.  I needle on the gauge doesn’t move at all.

 

Well, that’s it for now.  I appreciate your feedback on these issues.

 

 

You can test the temp gauge in a pan of boiling water.  That would give a definitive answer as to whether the gauge is good or bad.

 

[Dodger]

Appreciate the feedback.  I failed to mention a few details .. sorry.

 

1. I did rebuild the carb, but I don't mind running sea foam as I'm a fan of that product as well.

2. The tires are new.

3. I did pull the temp tub from the engine and the tubing was soldered shut.  There was no bulb as I would have expected.

[bkahler]

2 minutes ago, Dodger said:

Appreciate the feedback.  I failed to mention a few details .. sorry.

 

1. I did rebuild the carb, but I don't mind running sea foam as I'm a fan of that product as well.

 

That would definitely eliminate varnish in the carb.  I'm guessing the gas was new/fresh.  Did you do any work to the ignition system?

 

2 minutes ago, Dodger said:

2. The tires are new.

 

What happens when you put the front end on jack stands, does the steering feel smooth or tight?  I'm guessing tight kingpins can cause issues with steering.

 

2 minutes ago, Dodger said:

3. I did pull the temp tub from the engine and the tubing was soldered shut.  There was no bulb as I would have expected.

 

No bulb probably explains why the gauge doesn't work.  Hopefully someone can/will explain the process of getting the bulb replaced.

 

Got any pictures of your truck?

 

[Dodger]

1. I did repair a wire inside the distributor as the insulation was gone.  The truck runs great at idle in the garage but seemed to fail after heating up from the drive and trying to stop.

2. The wheels seemed to turn fine when I put the new tires on.  I guess I need to take the tire off and look at the kingpins.

-- is the steering adjustable?  my old VW van used to have a screw to tighten/loosen the steering.

3. Right

[bkahler]

30 minutes ago, Dodger said:

1. I did repair a wire inside the distributor as the insulation was gone.  The truck runs great at idle in the garage but seemed to fail after heating up from the drive and trying to stop.

 

After 30 years I wonder if the condenser is up to snuff.  Did you replace any of the components inside the distributor, what about the cap and wires?  Age has a way of breaking things down.

 

 

30 minutes ago, Dodger said:

2. The wheels seemed to turn fine when I put the new tires on.  I guess I need to take the tire off and look at the kingpins.

 

True story.  When I bought my B3B in 96 I drove it around the block and then up onto a trailer for transport.  The steering was really really tight on turns.  Fast forward 25 years and as I was rebuilding the front end I realized that whoever had the truck before me replaced the kingpins and bushings but didn't grease them!  I ended up just greasing the kingpins and they now turn nice and smooth.

 

30 minutes ago, Dodger said:

-- is the steering adjustable?  my old VW van used to have a screw to tighten/loosen the steering.

 

Yes, there is an adjustment nut.  You have to be careful just how much you adjust it.  Before adjusting it I would suggest replacing the grease/oil in the steering gearbox with cornhead grease. 

 

30 minutes ago, Dodger said:

3. Right

 

That's a great looking truck! 

 

[Kilgore47]

Your engine may be getting too hot.  You can get a cheap under the dash mount temp gauge that would do for now.  Sounds like you just need to start with one problem - fix that and then move on to the next project.  Soon you will have it running and driving great.

 

[Los_Control]

I agree with adding a aftermarket gauge to test with, until you fix the original. .... I would want to know what the temps are while driving for peace of mind.

There is a liquid gas inside the tubing of the gauge .... You freeze the new donor gauge and all the liquid gets pulled into the bulb. Then you quickly transfer the bulb and solder it on before it thaws out. .... there are youtube videos showing the process.

 

Leave the tires on to check the king pins. You want the tires off the ground and then use them for leverage. Grabbing top and bottom try to rock back and forth while watching for movement at the king pins. ..... There should be zero movement .... shows there is wear between the bushing and the pin.

I imagine a little play is not life threatening ... Top passenger pin on my truck has 1/16" of play .... I figure in a few years will be time to replace .... will have to keep a eye on it.

It also had a bad zirk fitting and would not take grease .... I had 1/8" play, I got grease in it and now down to 1/16".

 

Good looking truck!

What is going on with the fuel system? .... you say first drive that sounds like it has been parked. Have you checked the fuel tank for rust and debris?

Be interesting to pull off the top of the carb and see if you have any floaters in it that came from the tank.

 

 

[Dodger]

More info ...

1.  I did replace the condenser.  If the truck runs fine in the shop but acts up after 20 miles, should it be a carb issue?

2. I'll take the wheels off and check the kingpin and bearings.

 

What is cornhead grease?  where does it go?  wouldn't the steering box contain an oil ?

 

** I did install a new radiator (old one leaked), water pump and distribution sleeve that goes into the engine block while I was going over the cooling system.

[bkahler]

52 minutes ago, Dodger said:

More info ...

1.  I did replace the condenser.  If the truck runs fine in the shop but acts up after 20 miles, should it be a carb issue?

 

Is this a one time run of 20 minutes or is it each time you take a drive, after 20 minutes it occurs?

 

The fact that when you choke it 1/4, it runs better.  That makes me think it is carb related.  Are you running an electric pump or stock pump?  You might want to verify float level setting.

 

 

52 minutes ago, Dodger said:

2. I'll take the wheels off and check the kingpin and bearings.

 

What is cornhead grease?  where does it go?  wouldn't the steering box contain an oil ?

 

Corn head grease is a grease is a Grade 0 grease that is near-liquid when warm.  I found it highly recommended for steering gearboxes and it's what I used in mine.  My understanding is it doesn't leak out as easily as heavy weight oil.

 

52 minutes ago, Dodger said:

** I did install a new radiator (old one leaked), water pump and distribution sleeve that goes into the engine block while I was going over the cooling system.

 

Do you have an infrared heat gun?  If so what are the readings when it stalls on you?

[The Oil Soup]

The rear fender is not a ‘53.

[Dodger]

The fuel tank and fuel are OK.  I've had the top of the carb off several times trying to tweak the float, as it still seeps out from the gasket.  Trying to get the needle to set and stop fuel to the carb just a little lower in the bowl.  Yes, the truck is all original and using the mechanical fuel pump.  I also think it's a carb issue but didn't know if it would be air or fuel fixture that's off.

 

I bought this truck 4 months ago and it was my first road trip for a total of about 30 miles.  It had been in storage for about 30 years.

 

I'll try to attach an after market temp gauge for now as I too like to know engine temp.

[Dodger]

My insurance company told me that the vin was coming up as a 52.  But the individual I bought it from told me 53.  Can you shed any light?  What else should I look at?

[Young Ed]

What does the title say? Those round bed fenders were 48-52. If the serial number comes back as a 52( I would assume this is what your insurance was looking at) then that is likely what it is. However some states titled vehicles as the year sold vs model year. We had an early model year 50 Plymouth that was titled as a 49

[bkahler]

1 hour ago, Dodger said:

The fuel tank and fuel are OK.  I've had the top of the carb off several times trying to tweak the float, as it still seeps out from the gasket.  Trying to get the needle to set and stop fuel to the carb just a little lower in the bowl.  Yes, the truck is all original and using the mechanical fuel pump.  I also think it's a carb issue but didn't know if it would be air or fuel fixture that's off.

 

I believe when you're choking it and it runs better it means your mixture is to lean.  I'm still thinking a can or two of Sea Foam will help things.  I had a motorhome that sat a long time and it experienced exactly what you're describing.  A bunch of cans of Sea Foam and within 30 miles it was running good again.

 

As far as the leak issue on the carb, remove the top and place a piece of fine grit sand paper on a piece of glass.  Squirt some WD-40 on it and then rub the carb top around on the sandpaper.  I had to do that to both of my carbs to get them to stop leaking.

 

[JBNeal]

1 hour ago, Dodger said:

My insurance company told me that the vin was coming up as a 52.  But the individual I bought it from told me 53.  Can you shed any light?  What else should I look at?

if'n there is a plastic trim piece that says DODGE above the ignition keyswitch, it's a '53; if'n it's a stainless steel rectangle kinda shape, it's a '52.

 

Corn head grease works very well in a properly adjusted steering gearbox, especially if the output shaft seal has been replaced...no more oil drips from that area.

 

additional information - steering gearbox overhaul

additional information - steering gearbox adjustments

[Robert Harrison]

Congratulations on getting your truck going.  It sounds promising.   1.  Carbs/fuel system are probably the number one cause of old vehicles coming off the road originally.  Your idle issue sounds like contaminated carb/fuel.  It does not take much to foul the passages etc in the carb and so the problem goes all the way back to the tank and its cleanliness.  So,Tank, lines, pump, filters, fuel, carb.  Tanks can be dropped cleaned out best you can do and taken to a radiator shop.  I used to have access to a steam cleaner and I used boiling hot water and large amounts of TSP but there are lots of ways to clean them out and seal them.  I prefer buying a new one on most cases.  I think the tanks Inc.  Tank might fit your truck.  You will have to go through the carb too, flush the lines, filters and maybe go through the pump.

2.  Leave one front wheel on the ground while jacking the other just off the ground so that it is free.  With have someone help you hold the wheel on the ground so that it does not move.  Rock the free wheel with hands at 9 and 3 o'clock.  Rock it with your left and right arms looking for any movement in the joints.  You are going to find something loose, tie rod end, link, linkage, pitman arm.   Excessive toe-in can cause this too but you probably have something loose.  Replace the offending parts.  Since most of our trucks are Hobbie driven I would just replace the bad parts being careful to make sure the wheels are on the ground and have not moved during disassembly and road test try not to disturb alignment.   After that you can check alignment at home.  Since you are doing this you need also to check wheel bearings.  Now hold the wheel at 12 and 6 and repeat the rocking motion.  If the bearings are loose you will have 1/8 or less movement.  Keng pin wear also shows up during this test.   

I dont remember what the 3rd concern was but I would drop your oil pan, throughly clean it out before taking it to a machine shop for cleaning.  The gas tank can to to a radiator shop after you clean it out the best you can.  You have to just find a radiator shop that has a large enough tank.

[Dodger]

So ... your thinking 52

[Dodger]

JB - Do I have to pull the steering gear box to replace oil with corn head grease?  I'd like to leave it in the truck if I can.

[Dodger]

Would this leak have an effect on the performance?  If so, how do I fix this?  I didn't see anything in the carb rebuild kit to address this leak.

[bkahler]

21 minutes ago, Dodger said:

Would this leak have an effect on the performance?  If so, how do I fix this?  I didn't see anything in the carb rebuild kit to address this leak.

 

That leak, is one of the reasons you're running lean.  The throttle shaft is worn and/or the shaft holes in the carburetor base where the throttle shaft resides are worn.  This is a common issue.  The solution is to replace the throttle shaft and if possible have the holes in the carburetor base bored out and bronze bushings installed. 

 

If you look closely at the right side of the shaft you can see some wear on the shaft.  This is one of the better ones I have in my collection.  I have twin carburetors and I ended up picking and choosing the best shafts and bases that I had in my collection when I did my rebuild.  I do eventually plan on replacing the shafts and also bushing the carburetor bases.

 

[Los_Control]

The only real advantage to the grease is, if you have a leak. If the oil pours out, then fill it with grease.

Mine has oil in it and no leaks, while I might change the oil, I would replace it with oil.

 

 

[JBNeal]

10 hours ago, Dodger said:

JB - Do I have to pull the steering gear box to replace oil with corn head grease?  I'd like to leave it in the truck if I can.

I've rehab'd a gearbox while it was still in the truck...removed the top cover plate, removed the output shaft seal, flushed with diesel while cycling the gears, compressed air dry, cleaned output shaft for new seal installation, filled with corn head grease, cycled the gears a few times to displace the air, topped off grease while cycling gears again, applied thin layer of RTV as cover seal for installation, did the gearbox adjustments in those posted links, worked purty good.

 

Yep, that looks like '52 👈

[Dodger]

Appreciate all the feedback on my my new "52" Dodge Truck.  I found a lot of play and clunky feeling while turning the rotors left to right by hand.  I plan to replace the tie rod ends and drag link cross bar before digging into the kingpins as I might replace them later with a disk break conversion. I hope that tightens up the front end for now.  The kingpins only had slight play.  Since the gearbox is not leaking, I'm hoping to hold off on that as well unless it's not smooth while turning.

 

I did also notice that all of my break fluid has drained out of my MC while driving.  With the disk break conversion coming in the future, could I get by with buying the dual output MC that DCM sells and plug one of the ports for now?

[bkahler]

18 minutes ago, Dodger said:

Appreciate all the feedback on my my new "52" Dodge Truck.  I found a lot of play and clunky feeling while turning the rotors left to right by hand.  I plan to replace the tie rod ends and drag link cross bar before digging into the kingpins as I might replace them later with a disk break conversion. I hope that tightens up the front end for now.  The kingpins only had slight play.  Since the gearbox is not leaking, I'm hoping to hold off on that as well unless it's not smooth while turning.

 

I would say that's mostly good news.  I went with the disc brake conversion as well and I'm glad I did.  I think you'll still find a little play in the front end after replacing the tie rods and drag link.  The gearbox is bound to have some wear in it so I would suggest you should start looking into how to properly perform adjustments on the gearbox.  Also, you might want to ensure there is actually oil in the steering gearbox.  Better safe than sorry

 

 

18 minutes ago, Dodger said:

I did also notice that all of my break fluid has drained out of my MC while driving.  With the disk break conversion coming in the future, could I get by with buying the dual output MC that DCM sells and plug one of the ports for now?

 

I would suggest NOT doing the MC conversion until you actually have the disc brake conversion in place.  Plugging one port of an MC means you will have reduced braking power.  Hopefully others will have a better understanding of the consequences of doing something like that.  However, if you re-plumbed the brake lines to take advantage of both ports properly then I'd suggest making the MC change.  Re-plumbing the brake lines is not that difficult.