High Quality H4 Headlights for 12v Cars (Cheap!!)

[Sam Buchanan]

Yep, the cable was blocking the view of the goodies. 

[Bob Riding]

On 8/8/2024 at 8:32 AM, Bob Riding said:

Just ordered 2 sets. $ 17 per set. Will pick them up locally. Thanks for the heads up!

Just picked them up. Amazing value...even included a bag of zip ties. I wish I had more 12 volt cars to put them in! Mine came in a Lexus box

[Sniper]

On 8/1/2024 at 6:21 PM, Sniper said:

 

I was going to say Google is your friend, but they aren't.  DuckDuckGo on the other hand isn't your enemy, lol.

 

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=6v+H4+bulb&t=ftsa&atb=v399-1&ia=web

 

 

Ordered one for the Cuda.  I was thinking on ordering 2, just in case, but they just double the shipping, lol.  Thanks

 

Ok, I order this on 01 August 24.  Got an email today, 24 Aug 24, saying that the part has been received.  I am not in a hurry, but if any uses the link in the first post to order it,like I did, it'll take a while. 

[Loren]

FYI There are 6volt H4 bulbs available and there are 6 volt Bosch type relays available too. From the photos I can see the Toyota relays are different from the Bosch but I expect they will work on 6 volt. Like most online purchases BUYER BEWARE! I got all set up to purchase from two sites and when you get to the shipping calculation the cost is way out of line, even within the same dealer organization I finally ordered some from an AutoNation site that had shipping cost by half what another AutoNation site quoted. I don't have any Toyota dealers near me but the next time I am in Reno, NV I will try them for more.

 

Years ago the SAAB dealer I worked for used to buy NGK BP6ES plugs from the Datsun dealer in town ( yes it was that long ago ) for a ridiculous price because somehow somebody made an error and ordered a monstrous number of plugs and NGK delivered! I think that dealer ( or was it Datsun? ) was on the NGK Christmas card list for years!

[Sam Buchanan]

I’ve posted details of this kit on the big aircooled VW forum and a couple of members have related how they were able to get next day delivery from their local Toyota dealer. The price seems to be about the same either way. It took about two weeks for my shipments to arrive from Lakeland but this wasn’t time critical for me. The lights work very well in the Beetle and TR6. I’m going to mod a set for the P15.

Edited August 25 by Sam Buchanan

[Bob Riding]

Do we know what the color temperature is of these H4s?

In buildings, warm white is about 2,800 degrees K, neutral white is 3,500 degrees and cool white is 5,000 degrees. I don't like the really blue highlights (Xenon?) which would probably peg out at 8-10,000 on the same scale. I'm assuming they are close to the Halogen 6 volt sealed beams I run in my P10 wagon.

[Sam Buchanan]

On 8/25/2024 at 10:01 AM, Bob Riding said:

Do we know what the color temperature is of these H4s?

In buildings, warm white is about 2,800 degrees K, neutral white is 3,500 degrees and cool white is 5,000 degrees. I don't like the really blue highlights (Xenon?) which would probably peg out at 8-10,000 on the same scale. I'm assuming they are close to the Halogen 6 volt sealed beams I run in my P10 wagon.

 

To my uncalibrated eyes during the drive home last night they appear to be very close to halogen sealed beams. They are definitely not blue-white.

[Sam Buchanan]

Update to my earlier posts about using solid-state relays for the headlights in the P15:

 

I found there was about a one volt drop across the relays which negates the rational for using relays. I double and triple checked my measurement and something in the solid-state circuitry was causing the drop.

 

I purchased 6v Bosch-style relays and installed them in place of the solid-state modules. They work great, voltage drop from the battery terminals to the headlight side of the new relays is only about one tenth of a volt.....definitely within my idea of acceptable. I used terminal strips for the connections so everything could be quickly returned to the original wiring if a relay failed mid-trip.

 

The relays I purchased:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9VXC1B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

 

 

 

Just for an overview, the original headlight wiring from the dimmer switch is coming into view at the bottom of the photo and is connected to the lower terminal block. Coming out of the top of the lower block are the black and white wires to the relays to send the signal voltage to energize the relays via the dimmer switch.

 

Coming in from the top of the upper block are the fused feeds directly from the battery. The heavy wires at the bottom of that block carry battery current to the relays (blue wires) and then back to the block (yellow wires) where the bundle of black wires are connected to the high and low beams.

 

Edited August 27 by Sam Buchanan

[Sniper]

SSR's generally use a MOSFET as the switch and they do incur a voltage drop.  The one you showed is designed to switch AC, not sure if that aggravated the issue though.  Found the data sheet for it, output voltage drop is specified at 1.6V.

 

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13015

 

 

 

[clarkede]

Thanks for the heads up on this deal... After reading the compelling posts, I placed an order for two.    Everyone loves a deal!  I'm guessing from the confirmation email that I received, that it will take two weeks to take delivery.  Can't wait!

[Sam Buchanan]

UPDATE; Installation of 6v H4 bulbs in the ridiculously cheap Toyota headlights

 

In posts earlier in this thread I detailed installation of 6v headlight relays in my '48 P15. The Toyota headlight upgrade kit arrived and I swapped out the included 12v H4 bulbs for 6v H4 bulbs I sourced on Amazon. I installed the right headlight so comparison can be made to the 6006 halogen sealed beam currently in the car. Installation was straightforward but some may not like how the new lens protrudes from the chrome trim ring. The lenses are "European" style and look great on my TR6 and '69 Beetle but are more obvious on the Plymouth. I think I will like the better lighting enough to tolerate the new look(new light on left side of photo).

 

 

 

I haven't fine-tuned aiming but here are some side-by-side comparisons, new light on right side of photos. The modern beam cutoff pattern is very evident on low beam when compared to the old "round" pattern. It throws more light on the road in front of the car and also up and to the right for road signs while keeping the beam away from oncoming traffic. It actually extends coverage low and to the left of the original sealed beam.

 

 

 

The H4 bulb is higher wattage (55w/60w) than the old 6006, this photo gives some indication of the greater output.

 

 

 

The car is driven at night so this is a good upgrade at a very attractive price. I'll have a more complete impression after the other new reflector is installed and aiming is refined.

 

Edited September 12 by Sam Buchanan

[Eneto-55]

Wasn't it Don Coatney who modified the original type headlight bulbs to accept modern style bulbs? (I tried to search for that, but I get zero results. I cannot recall what wording he might have used.)

 

How would you all that are going with the modification as described here compare that to Don's way? (I'm assuming that some here will recall how he did it, cutting out the back of the stock light bulb, and fixing a modern style socket into that area.  I think he epoxied it in, but I don't remember the details.)

[Plymouthy Adams]

I do not remember Don doing that to his car.  I am assuming you are referring to the bullseye lens and housings upgrades.   Don took up the challenge to assist with the reproduction LED tail lights and bezel along with the trunk mounted stop light and bezel.  A few folks on here have gone down the lens change path.  Many however remove the lens and retrofit them on a current production H4 housing on the market today.  While the parabolic reflector is more forgiving than a composite for element placement and alignment cutting and glueing is not the manner to proceed.  They are DOT approved not only by Wattage, but by design of the element and per the housing they are fitted.  such as you cannot just buy a replacement LED bulb and drop into a housing as the design characteristic will not be correct and why they are fines in place you can be hit with if you alter the lighting especially in the modern composite housings.  Some of the worst light you encounter at night is from such amateur approaches to better lighting.  

 

These bulbs here as shown are E coded, and the 6 should be for Belguim and only authorized for that country in Europe.  There seems to be no DOT listed on the headlight from the Toyota but if there is, I stand corrected but the photographs do not show this data.  The flatter lens is dead giveaway to E coded.  

Edited September 12 by Plymouthy Adams

[Sam Buchanan]

It is my understanding these Koito lights are not DOT approved, think I saw notation to that effect in some of the Toyota verbage. However......my experience with the lights when installed on the TR6 and VW demonstrate superior light pattern to what is common with DOT sealed beams. The pattern is designed to throw more light to the right side of the road and minimize light going to oncoming motorists. This is very different from the incredibly horrible LED conversions that often blind us when meeting a bro with his blue-lighted Carolina-lifted truck.

 

I find the beam pattern to be very similar to what is found on late model vehicles with their highly refined designs. This is an area where the Europeans were many years ahead of the USA, our DOT was late to the party on headlight design. I like the idea of having modern, safe lighting performance on my old ride. 

Edited September 12 by Sam Buchanan

[Plymouthy Adams]

European road signs are required to be lighted as I read it, thus the design of the bulbs is more concentrated center beam instead of the DOT need of the lights to project right and up to light road signs.   Each country in the EU requires different lens and diffusing factors.  Many folks run the E-code and they are nice lenses but any inspection station in the US that places a safety sticker on the windshield is not doing their job and is operating outside their existing regulations.  As much as I hated to gig a well done car back in the day of official licensed state inspectors.  Fail them was a part of the job, they change to DOT, I recheck slap on the sticker....now did they change back....oh yeah likely they did, but I was never complicit.

[Sam Buchanan]

This discussion prompted me to do a bit of internet digging. Bottom line, the odds of failing a state inspection due to E-code headlights, especially on a vintage vehicle, is practically nil. E-code lights are superior to DOT light in all respects and hybrid E-DOT lights are on many US production vehicles.

 

For those who want E-code H4 lights but want to retain the familiar rounded shape, here is an option:

 

https://www.busdepot.com/nl910ch4

 

But this vendor clearly states the Koito H4 lights that we are discussing are superior.

Edited September 12 by Sam Buchanan

[Plymouthy Adams]

Odds of failing may be low. Odd of being incorrect, 100%  If I was still doing inspection, you would fail, you roll your own dice in that game.  Either all laws apply or no laws apply but this will lead into other areas frowned on for discussion.  It is not about superior lighting in lumens which is 99% of the human eye measuring value and performance....it is controlling the projection and diffusion of the light so to give you the best light at no distraction to other motorists  and it is still the written law by DOT and SAE standards.  I have never been an advocate for wishing to draw attention to myself of a negative factor.  Lighting issues is the largest single 'lead in' violation that will get you pulled and full blown inspection to car, carried contents, and suspected fitness of a driver.   Some corridors for heavy drug traffic will pinch you when their saturation forces  are in periodic clamp downs.   While you are upstanding citizen, do you wish the hassle and detainment when traveling....personally, not worth to me.  As every police officer states, they can fall in behind you and in just a few minutes or miles of driving, find a reason to pull you over.   Legal lighting is truly, less expensive.  

[Eneto-55]

2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

European road signs are required to be lighted as I read it, thus the design of the bulbs is more concentrated center beam instead of the DOT need of the lights to project right and up to light road signs.   Each country in the EU requires different lens and diffusing factors.  Many folks run the E-code and they are nice lenses but any inspection station in the US that places a safety sticker on the windshield is not doing their job and is operating outside their existing regulations.  As much as I hated to gig a well done car back in the day of official licensed state inspectors.  Fail them was a part of the job, they change to DOT, I recheck slap on the sticker....now did they change back....oh yeah likely they did, but I was never complicit.

As the owner of a small-town auto repair shop, my brother was also a state safety inspector.  Someone came in for the inspection, then promptly put on old tires.  They were stopped, and the police blamed my brother, as though those tires were on the car when he did the inspection.  So they pulled his license to do the inspections. But I don't think he cared that much, because there's very little in it for the shop owner, at least in that state, at that time (more than 30 years ago).

[Sam Buchanan]

There is a very simple solution for those who have concerns about improved and safer lighting.

 

Don't install it.

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes the me folks will always work around the system.....BUT...per our inspection the paperwork denotes the failure of the item at time of inspection, if corrected on spot a check went into respected box, if customer leaves to correct himself and returns later inspection within X days to be reinspected at no additional save the 50 cents for the sticker if he now passes, the recheck box got ticked.....the record existed....also the state allowed for daytime operations and checked off only for that purpose...failure to have working turn signals was not a fail for daytime use but your drivers glass had to be able to roll down for hand signals...so if tires were checked, box ticked for fail, then reinspected and ticked good and then next day or later same day officer pulls the car, the inspection sheet which MUST remain with vehicle will prove the inspector followed protocols and should not have been gigged.  The acid test of suspected shady inspectors with friends and family benefits was always to send a undercover in with known defects and check for compliance to rules.   This checked for violation not only in car's safety but gouging for on spot repairs, if found doing either, then was when the license was suspended.  Typically you made no real money with the state inspection fees and why many states let this fall to the wayside as not profitable and falls more to a hinderance.   

[Plymouthy Adams]

4 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

There is a very simple solution for those who have concerns about improved and safer lighting.

 

Don't install it.

you still missing the main point......legality....I am all for better lighting, but lighting goes beyond lumens as I said earlier.

[Sam Buchanan]

I'm not missing any points........

[Plymouthy Adams]

not m

1 minute ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I'm not missing any points........

I agree, as you have stated these are not DOT approved later in the thread...you are missing no points on the subject...you just outside the law failing to comply with the points.....while you may never fall subject to an inspection and such, just remember if you do get busted....it is your own undoing.  I would never risk the ever- changing mood of a patrolling officer on deliberate violations.  You never know when another may have whizzed in his oatmeal that morning.  

[Sam Buchanan]

That was quite the sermon.   

 

Thank you for your interest in my morality. I guess I need to see if my homebrew seatbelts meet the letter of the law, the replacement glass doesn't have a DOT stamp and I'm quite sure the LED taillights aren't DOT approved. Most likely the aftermarket gas tank isn't either, or.....well....we get the point.

 

By the way, Alabama has no vehicle inspections and it seems E-code headlights are legal in some states. I would never install lights on my car that are a hazard to other drivers, see the photos I posted in an earlier post showing the superior pattern to DOT sealed beams.

Edited September 12 by Sam Buchanan

[Plymouthy Adams]

As an added....with the inspection stations no longer as it was back in the day....I have on hand not one but two working Hoppy headlight aimers....the later for the last of the rectangular bulbs prior to composite and for that matter many of the early composite lamps.  I also have two designated areas that are dead nuts level front to rear and left to right for their use and the calibration tool.  But that is just who I am....these are Lucas Halogen, DOT bulbs, that aligned correctly are excellent for night driving.  Headlight hygiene is a must.