lostviking Posted October 5 Author Report Share Posted October 5 (edited) On 10/4/2024 at 9:55 AM, Sniper said: . . Edited October 6 by lostviking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted October 5 Report Share Posted October 5 22 minutes ago, lostviking said: I'm sure he'd rather sell me one...and IF he's selling them, then he knew that. Wasn't responding to you, I was responding to QEC's comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QEC Posted October 6 Report Share Posted October 6 (edited) Yes, the front bearing retainer registers the transmission input shaft to align with the crankshaft. This 'adapter', as it is called, is simply a flat plate with no registration to the bell housing, only the countersunk screws. The front bearing retainer is not fat enough to reach through the plate and register to the original bell. MaMopar is very particular about parallel mis-alignment. In fact, there is a section in the 60's & 70's FSM, and no I haven't looked throughout the various years, that specifically deals with aligning the bell to the block and includes part numbers for offset dowels to accomplish the task. Ma says the TIR needs to be less than 0.007". Threaded holes are simply not placed that accurately. That is why we have dowel pins to between block and bell. Will it work? No doubt that the parts will bolt up. Will it damage the front bearing? Very likely. Will the OP care as long as he gets a few miles out of it? Dunno. And NO, I do not make/sell them. Never have. My point is that this is not a proper trans adapter but, rather, a bolt pattern changer. Why does my ME brain care? Just not easy to ignore no matter how detailed the computer generated drawing is. GIGO. Edited October 6 by QEC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted October 6 Report Share Posted October 6 IF, all caps for a reason, the adapter hole is the same size as the housing hole, one could simply align them before final tightening of the attaching screws. Or, some adapters have a alignment protrusion on the front side and counterbored on the back for the FBR. I chose not to use an adapter. My bell, from a 59/60 truck, has the correct size pilot hole. So, with a little weld buildup, drilling and tapping it bolts up with no added parts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted October 6 Author Report Share Posted October 6 AoK has been making and selling these adapters for a number of years. The design hasn't changed, and I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with the basic design. Mine had manufacturing issues, not design issues. Yes, I did think of putting a small step on the bell side to assure the registration, but I didn't. The absolute location of the the four holes in my plate will be nearly perfect. The person who is making it for me will have the holes within the tolerance of the machine. It normally can hold .0005 tolerances. I don't think I"ll have any issues. Although I am considering taking a 6 inch round and making a plate with both bores to act as an alignment. I think that is overkill though...but I did design it. Maybe, if someone has a better understanding of mechanical engineering than AoK, he should contact either Tim Kingsbury or George Asche Jr directly to point out where they messed this up. I've found both of them to be very easy to talk to and happy to share their many decades of knowledge. I believe they are both automotive engineers, and they've been around flathead Mopars since their fathers opened the Chrysler engine plant in Canada in 1935. But hey, you may still know more and everyone makes a mistake right? I see why Tim doesn't come around here anymore. I've been sharing my experiences openly, even when I've made a mistake and had to back track. Maybe I'll just keep what I learn to myself from now on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted October 7 Report Share Posted October 7 Huh? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted Tuesday at 02:11 PM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 02:11 PM (edited) Countersunk bolts are self-aligning. So when you bolt that adapter plate to the bell housing it's going to bolt into the same position every time, theoretically. If it were a free floating setup such as you would have with hex head bolts then there would be opportunity for it to move around. I would Mount up the adapter plate check the run out in accordance with the service manual and adjust it for Center, torque down those bolts make sure everything still in spec and then drill a couple of alignment holes and run a pin through them so that that plate goes on to the same spot every time in the future. Not that you'd have a lot of call for removing it. If it's off, it would not surprise me if the later model offset dial pin that was mentioned would also work on our flatheads to adjust it. The factory does all of that when they built the assembly so theoretically if your adapter plate is perfectly centered on the bell housing, then you should not be any more off than the factory had it. Yeah, some of us can be belt and suspender types. But inherently, we're lazy, LOL. We'd rather do it once, do it right, and never have to do it again. The thing about the adapter plate is that those guys don't know your specific situation. Maybe you swapped out the bell housing, and even the factory will tell you if you do that you need to double check the run out. Edited Tuesday at 02:14 PM by Sniper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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