Brake switch/no headlights

[Mertz]

I installed my turn signal and everything was working great except my brake light. I checked it and there was no power going across between terminals. Got the new one in and used an awl to pull the clip on the hot wire which caused a short and made the awl very hot and burned my finger. Now I have no power to the switch and the headlights quit working. I thought I burned out a fuse. It is a strange setup. There is a fuse holder that slips over what I thought was a second fuse holder.  It turns like it wants to come out but it won’t. There is a holder that slips over the one attached to the headlight switch which just slips on but nothing to hold it in place. Did I burn out my headlight switch? Is there a fuse on the headlight switch?  I put a test light on the headlight side and got power. I jumped a hot wire to the brake switch pushed the pedal and still no power to the opposite terminal. If I need a new headlight switch how do I get it off?
 

BTW. I have the generator off to replace the brushes and the bearing. I tried jumping the two wires to the generator but it didn’t mater. 

[kencombs]

Don't know about your particular vehicle, but lots of early headlight switches has a 30a glass fuse mounted on them.

 

but I really don't understand this:  There is a holder that slips over the one attached to the headlight switch..    one what?

 

can you provide a pic?

[Mertz]

I’m still confused. I did get under the dash with a good flashlight and managed to remove the fuse holder (which did not come off very easily) and replaced the fuse and things are ok. The other fuse holder goes to the left side of the ammeter but I have no idea where it connects to after that. I thought it was the light switch. 

[Mertz]

Update. I just figured what that fuse is for, the truck used to have a radio. I guess you just need to consider all the facts and not make assumptions. 

[Robert Harrison]

There is a fuse on the original headlite switch it looks like the upper part of the long thing sticking down I am not sure what the thing is below it but as you say maybe a second fuse?  The fuse on the headlite switch original ran all the lighting. 

I dont remember how to remove the pull knob there might be a little button underside you push but there is a trick to it.  A guy who sells parts goes by Townwagon his name is Eric makes a little wrench if you can call it that to remove the bezzels if you can find him he can tell you.  Bob Harrison

[Merle Coggins]

If you have power to the brake light switch, but nothing coming out when you depress the brake pedal, then you likely have a bad brake light switch. I used to go through them every few months when I’d get them from Napa. The contacts would build up a corrosion layer that would block current flow. I finally bought a Standard brand from Rock Auto and it’s been working fine for many years.  

[Mertz]

I wasn’t getting current with the original brake switch so I put on a new one and still no current. I’m holding The brake pedal down with a stick. 

[Merle Coggins]

If you connect the 2 wires together at the brake light switch will the brake lights come on? Have you done a continuity check of the brake pressure switch with pressure applied? 

[Mertz]

I don’t have the brake lights installed yet. What I have done is to push on the brake pedal and hold it in with a stick. Then I go to the switch with a test light. I ground the light and touch it to the non hot terminal. If it is working it would have closed the switch and sent power to the non hot terminal energizing it making the test light go on. But the test light does not come on. It did this with the old switch so I got a new one but same result. Maybe the stick method isn’t working and I will have to have someone step on the pedal. 

[Dave72dt]

VERIFY you have power to the brake switch.  Don't worry about the switch working until you KNOW you have power to it.  It should be hot at all times, key on or off.  Verify you have a good ground on your test light also.

[greg g]

I repowered my brake lamps (running three bulbs) with a dedicated wire from the battery side of the solenoid to the brake light switch. Used 12 gauge wire with inline 20 amp fuse.   Try bypassing the switch making a direct connection if you have light(s) the circuit is good.  The  switch is dumb, doesn't care about which terminal is in or out.  And today it's not unusual for new parts to be fubar right outa the box.  Taking the brake light circuit out of the headlight switch makes every other light happier.  Use a temporary fused power wire to do the circuit test.  If you have a short between the switch and light, you don't want to fry the headlight switch fuse.

Edited June 12 by greg g

[Mertz]

I definitely have power to the brake light switch. 

[Dave72dt]

Does brake fluid come from the port the switch is screwed into if you remove the switch and push on the brake pedal?  Do you have a firm brake pedal when pushing on it?

[Mertz]

I have one soft push on the pedal and then it’s firm. It’s a new master cylinder but I will check for fluid. I expected fluid coming out when I removed the old one but didn’t get any but there was no pressure in the line. A socket does not fit between there switch and the mater cylinder body so it is a pain to remove and replace. 

[Merle Coggins]

Your stick may not be holding enough brake pressure to activate the switch. Get a helper to step on the brake pedal while you test it, or rig up your test light so that you can see it while stepping on the brake pedal.