Vespanation Posted June 8 Report Posted June 8 (edited) Hi guys, Just so I don't mess anything up! I'm going to remove the cylinder head, but I really don't want to break anything. I have all the head nuts removed (two came out with their studs), and everything connected to the head off. I put massive amounts of penetrating oil down each head stud. But, I'm not seeing a good way to lift it up. I really don't want to pry at the head gasket, to kind of get the head moving, so what's "The Way" to break the head loose so I can lift it up and off? Also, any suggestions for the silver engine paint? Thanks, Paul B. - American car newbie Edited June 8 by Vespanation Quote
D35 Torpedo Posted June 8 Report Posted June 8 3 hours ago, Vespanation said: Hi guys, Just so I don't mess anything up! I'm going to remove the cylinder head, but I really don't want to break anything. I have all the head nuts removed (two came out with their studs), and everything connected to the head off. I put massive amounts of penetrating oil down each head stud. But, I'm not seeing a good way to lift it up. I really don't want to pry at the head gasket, to kind of get the head moving, so what's "The Way" to break the head loose so I can lift it up and off? Also, any suggestions for the silver engine paint? Thanks, Paul B. - American car newbie You could put a long pipe nipple in the cylinder 6 plug or heater outlet. Grab the thermostat neck at the front. Threaded holes on the side can also be used. Maybe thread a bolt in and use it in conjunction with a bar to pry up on the head, leaver off the bell housing or something. Quote
FarmerJon Posted June 8 Report Posted June 8 A few firm whacks around the edge with a deadblow hammer (or a piece of 2x4 and a hard faced hammer) can help to jar the head loose from the gasket and block. Obviously be careful not to hit other things. I used the Dupicolor "aluminum" engine paint and was happy. Quote
Dan Hiebert Posted June 9 Report Posted June 9 Ditto FarmerJon's response, but you may still need to pry the head up a tad to break the seal. Be patient and don't get overly aggressive. I've been pleased with Duplicolor's aluminum engine paint as well, and I've heard good things about POR15 engine paint. If you're worried about originality, silver is the correct color, vs. aluminum. "Silver" is not as bright as aluminum. Quote
kencombs Posted June 10 Report Posted June 10 17 hours ago, Dan Hiebert said: Ditto FarmerJon's response, but you may still need to pry the head up a tad to break the seal. Be patient and don't get overly aggressive. I've been pleased with Duplicolor's aluminum engine paint as well, and I've heard good things about POR15 engine paint. If you're worried about originality, silver is the correct color, vs. aluminum. "Silver" is not as bright as aluminum. 17 hours ago, Dan Hiebert said: Ditto FarmerJon's response, but you may still need to pry the head up a tad to break the seal. Be patient and don't get overly aggressive. I've been pleased with Duplicolor's aluminum engine paint as well, and I've heard good things about POR15 engine paint. If you're worried about originality, silver is the correct color, vs. aluminum. "Silver" is not as bright as aluminum. Another color variation that looks good to my eye is 'argent', a common wheel paint color. Just another word for silver, but normally more available in quality paints due to its wide use as wheel paint. Quote
Vespanation Posted June 13 Author Report Posted June 13 OK, thank you all. I'll give it a shot this weekend and see what happens. It's funny how the solution to so many things is to hit it with a hammer! - Paul Quote
Dan Hiebert Posted June 13 Report Posted June 13 ...and if that doesn't work, use a bigger hammer. 1 Quote
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