39 dodge d10 clutch issues

[kouseneric39]

This is the old bushing I removed

[FarmerJon]

Maybe all this bushing trouble is why the PO didnt put one in there....

I wonder if there is something abnormal with the bore the bushing sits it. I would inspect it for galling, rough machine marks, dings or any raised flaw. I would also measure the bore in 2-4 places and compare to a new bushing OD. Perhaps it is somehow undersized. 

[squirebill]

PILOT BUSHING QUANDRY?!?!        So it seems an "oilite" sintered bronze bushing has been specified for our mopar flat head engines. Also, the oilite bushing should be handled in such a way that no damage happens to the pores of the sintered bronze.  The link offered by sniper even states that the bushing should be installed with constant pressure and not by hammer impacts.  So now I go to my service manual that states the bushing should be installed using mopar special tool DD-286 and driven into place with a soft hammer ( impacted into the bore, a no-no).  Then the tool is used to "burnish" the bushing to the correct size.  Burnishing is somewhat of a polishing process that would affect the pores of the bushing (another no-no).  In Figure 19 of the Clutch Section of my service manual, that is titled "Lubricating Pilot Bushing" it says , "Insert about 1/2 teaspoonful Short Fiber Grease in the pilot bushing." (according to Oilite, another no-no, or at least not necessary).    Seems to me the oilite bushing was specified but the mopar engineers knew they were going to damage the pores of the sintered bronze by burnishing the bushing to size and therefore lubrication was necessary.  I have and will follow the directions in the Service Manual.  Just my 2/100 of a dollar.

[Sniper]

Burnishing is the proper method, even according to Oilite.

 

Quote

Roller Burnishing is an excellent choice to modify an ID slightly. Ball sizing can also be used on the ID effectively for final sizing.

 

[kouseneric39]

Thank you very much

[kouseneric39]

Third time will be a Charm.i got the origal olite bronze bushing mopar part #53298 .the brash one that is in the car isn't hurt in anyway just to tight on the input shaft.so I'm going to use the burnishing tool and see if that does anything for me on the brass one that's currently installed.however I have the olite bushing ready for a spare and I have a micrometer to measure everything if I have to go down that road.

[Ivan_B]

9 minutes ago, kouseneric39 said:

just to tight on the input shaft

How tight is it? The shaft should freely rotate inside the bushing, this is what its for. If it is too tight, it might start rotating with the shaft and damage the hole where it is sitting.

[kouseneric39]

Unfortunately the ebay miller burnishing tool isn't coming the seller already sold it dose anyone have any ideas where to source the miller dd-286 burnishing tool?

[kouseneric39]

So here's a update the brass bushing that is installed I reamed with a 3/4 hand flute then used 2000 grit paper with machine polish to clean up the bore.it can out clean within factory spec.so I decided to put it back together.WORKED PERFECT.so I can't say the longevity of the repair yet however.the trans shifts beautifully with no drive shaft.clutch is operating properly.so ide say this was a two part issue.#1 was the wear on the entire tourque shaft assembly. 

Solution is the touque shaft replacement kit.

#2measure your bushing and the crank before anything.mis installed pilot bushing cause the input shaft to bind on the bushing.

(Not recommended by everyone)

Solution I Reamed the bushing using a 3/4 hand flute then polished the bushing with 2000 grit and machine polish.

I know only what I'm learning about these cars so we will see how she holds up this summer.

[kouseneric39]

The miller tool was already sold the seller didn't know why it was reposted.so I decided I would ream it there was no reason in my mind to not try to hone the already installed bushing.since the bushing is brass I used a 3/4 hand flute reamer the hole then used 2000 grit and machine polish to further polish the inside of the bushing.after all of that I put the car back together.it shifts better then ever .the weird growl is gone and the clutch works as it should.

As far as the longgevity of the repair I cant say.

I will say this I bought a micrometer and measured 4 spots on the bushing it's within spec of what the factory calls for.so I would recommend like many of you did to always measure everything.im still not 100% sure if it was the wrong bushing to start.lets not forget there was no bushing when I took the vehicle apart

Thank you again for everyone's help

Next order or business is the generator wasn't working when I bought the car I put new brushes but still nothing.anyway have a breakdown of how to diagnose this properly?

[Ivan_B]

13 minutes ago, kouseneric39 said:

I will say this I bought a micrometer and measured 4 spots on the bushing it's within spec of what the factory calls for.

Very good. Did you also measure the input shaft tip? I am just curious because it looked dead to me.

14 minutes ago, kouseneric39 said:

lets not forget there was no bushing when I took the vehicle apart

Does not count, sorry 😂

 

15 minutes ago, kouseneric39 said:

it shifts better then ever .the weird growl is gone and the clutch works as it should

Is that fully assembled, under load, or still without the rear-end connected?

[kouseneric39]

I did the shaft was good I cleaned it 10x better with machine polish and 2000 grit.still no drive shaft this was just testing it before I went any further into re assembly. I went really slow to my time.polishing the i/d of the bushing until it measured within factory parameters.so I'll install the drive shaft tomorrow and I'll take it out for a road test get everything heated up and see what happens lol 

[soth122003]

This is the brass bushing, right? If so make sure to lube with a bit of heavy grease.

 

Joe Lee

[kouseneric39]

Correct I put white lithium grease on the shafte and spline before installing the trans hopefully all is well lol