Roofus Posted January 30 Report Share Posted January 30 (edited) Hello! I have no braking experience not assisted by my car (chrysler49), all the components are new and adjusted correctly, I find the braking fairly weak, and it is impossible to block the wheels, is this normal ? Edited January 30 by Roofus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan_B Posted January 30 Report Share Posted January 30 No, it is not. I assume you are feeling good pressure at the pedal and it is not just going to the floor? For the very basics, I would start by making sure that: 1) bearing grease is not leaking onto the rotors 2) brake fluid is not leaking onto the rotors 3) the rotors are clean (you've probably figured it out by now) 4) the shoes match the rotors with a good (large) contact area. Technically, you should grind\machine the shoes to fit the individual rotor properly. Also, the rotors themselves should be perfectly cylindrical (verified with an indicator). The disc brakes are much less sensitive to the above problems, due to the way they function Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted January 30 Report Share Posted January 30 Going from power assist to manual brakes is a big change and will require more force on your part to apply the brakes. Going from power disc to manual drum is an even bigger change. Yes they should lock the wheels. The shoes may require arcing to fit the drums properly for maximum contact area and a rusty surface in the drum can glaze the shoes, also inhibiting brake efficiency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan_B Posted January 30 Report Share Posted January 30 One more question: are all the new components (and especially the master and slave cylinders) the correct OEM size? Some of the aftermarket cylinders might be smaller, and that will considerably increase the requisite pedal force. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted January 30 Report Share Posted January 30 I am assuming that the original poster still has the original Lockheed Braking system and each brake shoe is independent of the other shoe. If he has the original system then he has drum brakes and not rotors as another poster indicated. Yes he needs to check out each brake area. If any issues then fix that issue. We do not know if the drums have been turned or not. this could be another issue. When were the shoes last adjusted on each wheel. You have to remember that on these cars they did not have self adjusting brakes like our modern cars have. Every several months of driving you might have to perform a minor brake shoe adjustment. If you are not experienced then try to find a mechanic that knows the old Lockheed braking system. You will need the tool and get the shoes arced to match up with each drum. Suggest that you get the appropriate service manual for your car and read the section on brake adjustments. If you feel somewhat confident but still not 100% then try to get a other antique mopar friend to help out with the adjustments. We have all gone through what you are experiencing and will try to assist were we can. Keep posting questions and updates. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan_B Posted January 30 Report Share Posted January 30 29 minutes ago, desoto1939 said: If he has the original system then he has drum brakes and not rotors as another poster indicated Sorry, I certainly meant the drums, assuming that we are dealing with the OEM brakes. Thank you for the correction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roofus Posted January 31 Author Report Share Posted January 31 (edited) Everything that is written is very relevant and I thank you... Quote Yes they should lock the wheels so this operation is not normal, I will investigate ... Edited January 31 by Roofus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted January 31 Report Share Posted January 31 (edited) Hey Roofus, Up at the top of the page in the header bar section, you should see a tab called technical. Right hand side right under the search bar. Click on this and then click on the brakes tab. It has a rundown and explanation of the Lockheed brake system that is pretty in-depth. Should be a big help for you. If you don't change the brake lines... The last step BEFORE the road test is the panic stop. If everything is done and your ready for the road, DO THIS CHECK. Sit in the car and STOMP the bakes like a kid has just run out in front of you and your at 30 MPH. This is to check that the old brake lines will hold the pressure you put on them in an emergency. When I first got my car, I bleed the brakes, all was good and then I did the panic stop check. My front brake line blew out under the radiator. The splint in the line was over an inch long. The line had corroded from the inside. The outside looked fine, but i see the corrosion on the inside of the line. If in doubt, CHANGE the lines. Joe Lee Edited January 31 by soth122003 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Roofus Posted February 1 Author Solution Report Share Posted February 1 (edited) Bon, après avoir vérifié tout le circuit, je n'ai pas trouvé d'anomalie, mais en appuyant vraiment trés fort sur la pédale, celle-ci s'est brutalement enfoncée et est restée en bas, il s'avère que la tige de poussée du maitre cylindre s'est détachée de la pédale, car pas assez de filetage engagé… Après avoir tout remis en place, j'ai constaté une fermeté inédite de la pédale, je suis allé faire un test routier et ça fonctionne maintenant parfaitement. Je pense que le circuit n'était pas purgé correctement et que l'incident de la tige de poussée a fait remonter les bulles dans le réservoir. Well, after checking the whole circuit, I did not find any anomaly, but by pressing really very strong on the pedal, it has suddenly sunk and remained at the bottom, it turns out that the stemMaster cylinder’s push detached from the pedal, because not enough hired thread… After having put everything back in place, I noticed an unprecedented firmness of the pedal, I went to do a road test and it now works perfectly. I think that the circuit was not purged properly and that the thrust stem incident raised the bubbles in the tank. Edited February 1 by Roofus 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan_B Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 There should be no tank in the OEM system, or are you referring to the master cylinder? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 4 hours ago, Roofus said: Bon, après avoir vérifié tout le circuit, je n'ai pas trouvé d'anomalie, mais en appuyant vraiment trés fort sur la pédale, celle-ci s'est brutalement enfoncée et est restée en bas, il s'avère que la tige de poussée du maitre cylindre s'est détachée de la pédale, car pas assez de filetage engagé… Après avoir tout remis en place, j'ai constaté une fermeté inédite de la pédale, je suis allé faire un test routier et ça fonctionne maintenant parfaitement. Je pense que le circuit n'était pas purgé correctement et que l'incident de la tige de poussée a fait remonter les bulles dans le réservoir. Well, after checking the whole circuit, I did not find any anomaly, but by pressing really very strong on the pedal, it has suddenly sunk and remained at the bottom, it turns out that the stemMaster cylinder’s push detached from the pedal, because not enough hired thread… After having put everything back in place, I noticed an unprecedented firmness of the pedal, I went to do a road test and it now works perfectly. I think that the circuit was not purged properly and that the thrust stem incident raised the bubbles in the tank. Excellent! We know what you are describing. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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