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Installing a New Brake Cable for a C-38 1948 Chrysler Royal - Tips - I hope


Tom Skinner
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Gents,

Now that I am getting on in years, my 1948 Chrysler Royal Brake Cable was catching/binding some what so I ordered a new one. It goes through the firewall grommet and a bracket on the steering column and then proceeds to the actual brake mechanism at the Fluid Drive Drum (Down by the Emergency Brake Return Spring). Is there any tips as  to changing this out without too much hassle? I got a bad back and don't want to wrestle with it, I want smooth sailing. I'm guessing jack it up with Tripods under the frame to give me plenty of room, wear gloves (the old one is frayed and oily) and then be sure to adjust that baby back to where it holds my bus still on a hill). Any other tips will be much appreciated. I have a 28 year old son that I had when my wife and I were 40 that is willing to help me (A former USMC Sargent) He helped me put a Clutch in her 14 years ago. Anyway any tips much appreciated. I searched the Thread first and didn't find any Tips on this before hand so as not to hassle anyone.

Thanks in advance!

I still love turning wrenches in NC!

Tom 

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The inspection / floor pan on my 1948 Desoto came off from the inside.

your cable also clamps to the steering column. You might be able to do the rest from inside.

Good luck

Frank

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Study the old original e-brake cable and note routing.

Hopefully it is the original and routed as OE designed.

I myself have never removed the whole front floor pan which also requires removing all the carpet and front seat let alone another 20 plus bolts and throttle linkage. Anyway....

  At the hand brake handle there are two bolts that position and clamp the end of the cable housing to the hand brake handle assembly.

There is aslo a clevis pin with a cotter pin to remove at the hand brake lever.

Next thing to remove is a double screwed aluminum clamp ring retaining the rubber grommet and cable located at the upper drivers side of the firewall.

Then remove the E- brake cable clamp bolt at the lower steering column.

The e-brake cable is routed between the engine rear cross member and bell housing cover...stays close to the drivers side lower rubber engine mount.

Just rear of this cross member there is a cable end retaining clamp located on the transmission side cover...remove the bolt and nut...pull cable end out of this retaining clamp.

Under the car at the rear of the transmission remove the  e-brake return spring, cable yoke clevis pin, also remove two nuts retaining the cable end "U" yoke....remove said yoke.

Remove cable assembly from car noting proper original routing.

Install the new cable in reverse order.

Adjust cable down at transmission brake band for proper e-brake operation.

A fun little project..not too difficult...a little tight up by the handle brake.?

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Lot of work that's not necessary for cable removal is all I'm stating.

Tight quarters removing a dirty  floor pan possibly soiling a nice pretty seat.

Six cylinder and eight cylinder floor pans of course are different..

We all have our ways.

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Thanks Dodge4ya, and everyone else. I wrestled it in today. up and down under and over, and never moved the floor pan.

Not the kind of work for an older guy but I took plenty of before pictures. It was a frayed original greasy mess. I just need to test it and adjust it tomorrow

so it holds on a hill like it should I got it from Melisa at Mopar-Mall for $118 (I hope that doesn't break a Thread Rule mentioning a Supplier)

It fits perfect, It was kind of tough getting the sleeved ends into their bracketed fits near the ends. 5 hours in for it so far but I am proud I didn't need any help.

Thanks again everyone!

Tom

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Good job Tom! Knowing the bad back situation myself there is an increased satisfaction with getting that type of project done and dusted. Well done.  Dave

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