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Posted

I got a new crankshaft pulley and tried to install it but it wouldn’t go on. I put a 2x4 on it and hit with a hammer and only got it on part way. I pulled it off and tried again with a modified key. Still no good. I then took my brake cylinder hone to it and it finally went on fairly easily. I used my breaker bar and socket to tighten the bolt. I got it very tight but could not turn over the engine even with the bolt completely tight. Pulled the plugs still no good. Put in a battery and the starter did not engage. Used the impact wrench and still no movement. I would try to install my wheels and roll it but I still need to repair the axle. What could have happened and is it reversible with taking the engine out?

 

thanks

Posted

Did the engine crank over without trouble before the pulley installation? It sounds like it isn’t the correct pulley for your engine. It may be binding up in the seal/front cover as well. 

Posted

No

Posted

It did turn over fine before I tried to install the pulley. I had trouble moving it when I had to turn it to set up the bolts so I could remove it the first time. I can’t think of a reason it would bind. The seal should not have enough resistance to cause the problem. I added a lot of lubricant to the shaft and pulley. 

Posted

It sounds like the pulley needs to come back off, then verify the crank turns freely.  

Posted

Yeah that what I was thinking too. 

Posted (edited)

I pulled the pulley and the engine turns over just fine. What would cause the pulley to bind the engine?  Can I modify the pulley to make it work?  Does it push against a bearing cap?

 

I just measured the old hub and the new and they are the same depth. The bolt I used has a spring style washer.  Would that cause the hub to go on too far and jamb?  I can try the original bolt and see if it still jambs. Can’t remove the washer from the bolt I used. The original bolt is slightly bigger and requires a more unusual socket size. 

Edited by Mertz
Posted

The bolt should not be affecting the ability to turn the crank.  Is this a fresh build?  Are all the dimensions of the two crank pulleys the same?  Is the back side of the crank pulley hitting the motor mount bracket?  Do belt pulleys bolt on and if so are those bolts too long?  Anything behind the timing cover missing?  Has the timing cover been changed?

I suppose you could install the old pulley to see if it turned freely.  It would at least tell you if the problem was with the pulley or with the crank.  

Posted

It is not a fresh build. It has been run as a station engine.  The hub and dimensions depth are the same including the pulley.  Pulley not hitting the motor mount bracket. Pulley not bolted on. Nothing missing behind the replaced timing cover. The original did not have a timing pointer so I used the one from the original engine. 
 

I will try to reinstall the pulley with a different bolt and test turn it as I tighten it. 

Posted

Clearance between pulley and frame?  Parts changed or replaced on the front of the engine?

Posted

You've replaced the timing cover too? Did you get it properly centered? There was a special tool for this but when I built my engine I left the cover bolts loose and then installed the pulley. That centers the seal on the pulley. Then I tightened the bolts. As I recall I had to pull the pulley back off to tighten a couple of the bolts. 

Posted

If you can post a pic of the front of the engine w/o the pulley, then a pic of the backside of the pulley, maybe that will trigger some ideas.

 

Is the only change you've made the timing cover and pulley?  

Posted

The cover is centered. Found the problem.  The pulley was welded to the hub but came loose during my initial attempts at installation. When I got the pulley off I noticed 2 marks on the cover. I thought they were from the bolts I used to remove the pulley but they are from the bolts I used to attach the pulley after the welds failed. They were just enough too long to make them bind the crank. Everything is good now. 

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