Accessing valves in early models

[Semmerling]

For the early Dodge models that do not have an access panel in the passenger front fender to get to the valves there is only one way to comfortably adjust the valves. I was able to completely remove all the manifolds and get enormous access to the valves in less than 30 minutes. As far as I'm concerned, there's no more mystery, valves were adjusted in the early models by removing everything in the way. It took me less than 2 1/2 hours to access the valves, fully adjust them using this Speedy Guide I published a month ago and be back on the road. Now what this means is, the early engines are best adjusted cold. And since there  is literally no published data as to what those COLD adjustments should be, I actually took apart the engine and adjusted the valves twice, once in the late afternoon and then early the next morning so that both blocks were cold. Access to the valves was fantastic.

 

Given that, I have a couple of observations. One has to remove all of the time intensive operations, and the ones that are most time intensive are the ones that deal with having to manually put on washers and nuts on studs that are in very difficult locations to access. Given that I'm going to show you a very simple tool I created in order to thread the nuts that are on the center intake. This works for both the top and the bottom and literally lets you get them all on a minute or two. The second observation is that at 20 foot pounds the intakes themselves should be checked regularly even if you're not taking them off. I would say approximately 40% of all of the nuts needed a tightening.

 

So with that let's start with the simple tool. It's basically as you see in the photos with the rubber nib being of a smaller diameter than the ID of the nut to the point that once you get it on the end of the bolt, you just spin it with your finger. It works perfectly with the recommended brass nuts.

 

I'm happy to answer any questions that people have. In the case of my 1934 Dodge Dr the Stone Cold Lash adjustment numbers provided the quietest and best driveability the car has had. The manual states that the 1934 has an intake of .005 adjustment, and an exhaust adjustment of .007. These are obviously much less than the later years. Given that I use the 0.002 ADD rule for a cold engine bringing those numbers to intake .007 and exhaust .009. I used the Speedy valve guide that I published about a month ago and everything was done with one rotation of the engine from number one cylinder to number six. Folks. The guide works. I wasn't completely satisfied. I drove it originally, and thought it could be better both by way of the sound of the valves and drivability.

 

I did the first set in the evening and I tore the engine down again the next morning and reset the valves at intake 009 and exhaust 011. For my block this was by far the very quietest and best driving valve adjustment I think the car is ever had. So there it is, cold setting for a 1934 Dodge Dr that was slightly decked is intake .009 and exhaust .011. I'm happy to answer any questions.

 

 

Edited April 23, 2023 by Semmerling

[Dan Hiebert]

Even with the theoretically more convenient access panel in later cars, I'm thinking your success in accessing the valves by removing the manifolds may be a good way to go about valve adjustment in later cars, too.  It's not as if it's done often enough to make it a pain, and one gets a chance to fiddle with and tweak those removed accouterments if needed, too.  The only downfall for the D24 is the size of the fender I'd have to lean over, but that is becoming more attractive than curling up in the fender to adjust valves that I do now.  That nut starting tool is borderline genius.

[Semmerling]

That would be my experience. The only issue we all contend with is that the disassembly, adjustment, reassembly and test driving may end up with the recognition that you have to do it all again. Only then does it become more of a pain. Having said that, one does this so infrequently, the opportunity to have a perfect set is worth it.

[Saskwatch]

This is a great idea ! When removing the manifolds are you able to reuse the gaskets ? 
 

[Sam Buchanan]

Please be advised that removing manifolds may not be as easy as it was on the original poster's beautifully finished engine. It is very common to deal with stripped/broken studs, nearly impossible to remove nuts, and in worst cases broken manifolds. If a stud pulls out the coolant may need to be drained because some of the studs penetrate the water jacket. You will also need a complete manifold gasket set. If the car does have a removeable fender liner that is by far the better and less invasive route to valve access.

Edited April 23, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[Sniper]

That's why you use brass nuts not steel ones.  They don't seize to the studs.

[Sam Buchanan]

3 minutes ago, Sniper said:

That's why you use brass nuts not steel ones.  They don't seize to the studs.

 

Yes, but did the previous owner(s) know that?

[Sniper]

Does it matter? you do it and it's done. 

[Semmerling]

Sam, you are of course right being able to disassemble everything in 30 minutes is dependent on the state of everything involved. There was no prior owner other than my grandfather than my father now myself working with my son. Having said that, I would make the case that if in fact you are confronted with an engine that can't be taken apart, that may very well be the very best time to take it all apart and begin the process of improving the general condition. In the case of the 34 one has no choice the inner fender liner is welded to the exterior fender and there just is no other way to go about doing the work.

Edited April 23, 2023 by Semmerling

[Semmerling]

2 hours ago, Saskwatch said:

This is a great idea ! When removing the manifolds are you able to reuse the gaskets ? 
 

 

The short answer is yes, in fact in this case, the gaskets were used three times and could be used again. The foot pounds on the intakes is 20, that's so low one has to stop and think about it because normal experienced hands think of "reasonable tightness" at around 35. 

[Sam Buchanan]

9 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Does it matter? you do it and it's done. 

 

It matters if you are trying to remove a manifold that is attached with hardware that is corroded.......

[Sniper]

1 minute ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

It matters if you are trying to remove a manifold that is attached with hardware that is corroded.......

 

You don't have the option in the OP's situation, which is what we are talking about here.

 

In other cases you might, but whenever you remove the manifolds, for whatever reason, use brass nuts. 

[Sam Buchanan]

Good grief Sniper, go back and read my posts. I trying to agree with you but you won't agree to letting me agree with you.......  ?

 

Over and out.

[Sniper]

After 22 year of marriage, I ain't used to any one agreeing with me, lol

[Hickory]

Yup, I agree...... Which ever way is easier is the easiest way to do it.  It's not a bad idea to remove the manifolds to upgrade the hardware and gaskets if you're up to it. It's also a known practice to go through the wheal well if it's an option..... For side cover gaskets I use don coatney's method of sealant on one side of gasket and grease on the other. (Cork of course, neoprene isn't an issue). Then gasket comes off easy. I also like wing nuts on side cover.

[Semmerling]

Wing nuts....absolutely.....harder to over tighten too..