desoto1939 Posted February 12, 2023 Report Posted February 12, 2023 I was going through a 1935-36 Plymouth service manual and at the back of the manual was section on how to use the Miller MT19 Brake gage tool and the Miller Trubrake tool to perfectly arc your new bakeshoes. I have both of these special tools the Miller MT19 with the 7 sleeves and the Truebarke tool to cut down the lining to match the arc of the drums. Please read the copies of the explanation of the process. These tools were the factory dealership tools that were used from the mid 1930's up to around 1955 while MoPar was still using the Lockheed Brake system with the eccentric pins. The tool will work for both single and dual wheel cylinders. I have used the MT19 to setup my brakes and then used the grinding tool to arc the lining to fit the arc of each drum. Truebrake system.pdfFetching info... 4 Quote
desoto1939 Posted February 12, 2023 Author Report Posted February 12, 2023 here isa picture to the truebrake lining cutter. Rich Hartung 2 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 12, 2023 Report Posted February 12, 2023 Another version of the Trubrake grinder is the "Brake DokTor" Looks very similar. I used to use one years ago. The bench top machines are easier and quicker to use and get abrasives though not done much these days. I use ammco and star grinders still. Quote
desoto1939 Posted February 12, 2023 Author Report Posted February 12, 2023 Yes the dust is an issue but I wear a face-shield and also mask when using the tool. I am very carful when using the tool just as you have to be when working under a car. You do not see many of these two tools even at Hershey. The older Miller tools are very hard to find. everyone wants the Ford or chevy Gm tools. So i might never have to do another brake job but the history of the tool and knowing how they did this back when these cars were being serviced is such an experience. Rich hartung 1 Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted February 18, 2023 Report Posted February 18, 2023 I found an old brake shop in Long Beach, C. H. Topping, and they were the only ones who could arc my brake shoes. They are the perfect place to take an old car for a brake job because I looked around and saw nothing but old cars like a 40 Ford and 57 Pontiac etc. But they have about a two month waiting list of customers. https://www.longbeachexecs.com/automotive/item/167-c-h-topping-brakes Quote
greg g Posted February 18, 2023 Report Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) C H Topping are the ones that had an article touting their process of drilling drums to improve braking performance. This procedure allows for better brake cooling and allows for the release of gasses built up from the action of friction on the lining material which helps proper surface contact between shoes and drums. I believe a copy of the article is in this site's download files. Apparently this was a thing before retro fitting disc brakes became the preferred brake up grade. This process was used to good effect in the early50's for American cars running in the Carrara Pan Americana, aka the Mexican Road Race. Didn't know they were still open. Somebody in So Cal should drop of their 40's Dodge or Plymouth and have the process done and report the results. Edited February 18, 2023 by greg g Quote
harmony Posted February 25, 2023 Report Posted February 25, 2023 Has anyone here ever tried the process of drilling holes in the drums themselves? I couldn't find the article in the download section here by C H Topping that greg g was referring to, but I did find it on line. Looks like they drill about 38 holes, using 2 rows with staggered holes. Perhaps 2 1/2" between holes. Looks like maybe 1/4" holes. http://www.chtopping.com/CustomRod4/ Quote
Bigbe60 Posted April 4 Report Posted April 4 On 2/12/2023 at 6:33 PM, desoto1939 said: I was going through a 1935-36 Plymouth service manual and at the back of the manual was section on how to use the Miller MT19 Brake gage tool and the Miller Trubrake tool to perfectly arc your new bakeshoes. I have both of these special tools the Miller MT19 with the 7 sleeves and the Truebarke tool to cut down the lining to match the arc of the drums. Please read the copies of the explanation of the process. These tools were the factory dealership tools that were used from the mid 1930's up to around 1955 while MoPar was still using the Lockheed Brake system with the eccentric pins. The tool will work for both single and dual wheel cylinders. I have used the MT19 to setup my brakes and then used the grinding tool to arc the lining to fit the arc of each drum. Truebrake system.pdf 1.46 MB · 15 downloads Expand Excuse me, I was wondering if u were interested in selling me this tool u have, if so, give me a call or something, and maybe we can talk about it thank u Quote
desoto1939 Posted April 5 Author Report Posted April 5 Bigbe60: I sent you a PM about the tools. Rich Hartung Quote
greg g Posted April 5 Report Posted April 5 The drilling of drums was a practice used by teams preparing for and racing in the Mexican Road Race and in the Carrara pan America when they campaigned heavy fullsize &S cars like Lincoln, Chrysler, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Mercury, Cadillac, etc. Under the theory that brake fade was caused by a layer of gases that were released from the friction material faster than it could be released. This formed a boundry layer opposing full shoe/drum contact at high operating conditions. The holes allowed this entraped gas to vent allowing for proper friction surface contact. They also facilitated cooling and water displacment after stream crossings. This process got shelved when disc brake became available. In he words of Enzo Ferrari " Brakes? Who needs brakes? They just slow you down!!" Dont know if the process made any appreciable improvement for street cars unless you lived in the mountains. Quote
desoto1939 Posted April 5 Author Report Posted April 5 On 4/5/2025 at 5:12 PM, greg g said: The drilling of drums was a practice used by teams preparing for and racing in the Mexican Road Race and in the Carrara pan America when they campaigned heavy fullsize &S cars like Lincoln, Chrysler, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Mercury, Cadillac, etc. Under the theory that brake fade was caused by a layer of gases that were released from the friction material faster than it could be released. This formed a boundry layer opposing full shoe/drum contact at high operating conditions. The holes allowed this entraped gas to vent allowing for proper friction surface contact. They also facilitated cooling and water displacment after stream crossings. This process got shelved when disc brake became available. In he words of Enzo Ferrari " Brakes? Who needs brakes? They just slow you down!!" Dont know if the process made any appreciable improvement for street cars unless you lived in the mountains. Expand greg: thanks for the information. I did a lookup on this topic. would having riveted lining also cause this issue? I would think to a lesser degree since the linings are not bonded to the metal shoe area. Also hard to believe that for almost 50 years we had drum brakes and then in the era around the 70's we started to go to disk brakes and it took that long to solve the issues. Rich Hartung Quote
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