dgrinnan Posted September 8, 2022 Report Posted September 8, 2022 I have seen the tech tips and post about using a drum/wheel hub puller. I am assuming the challenge is because of the brakes holding onto the drum? If this is not the case my actual question is not valid. Has anyone tried adjusting the brakes in to remove the pressure against the inside of the drum? With a little banging to break loose any rust around the center of the hub shouldn't the brake drums then just pull off? Quote
Frank Gooz Posted September 8, 2022 Report Posted September 8, 2022 Good morning, The puller you talked about is to pull the hub off the axel. The axel has a wood drift key in them also. Mopar used hubs on tapered axels I think up 1964. The drum is attached to the hub and should then come off as one unit. You will need a pulled . Good luck. Quote
dgrinnan Posted September 8, 2022 Author Report Posted September 8, 2022 Thanks. I figured there was probably more to it. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted September 8, 2022 Report Posted September 8, 2022 I've heard of an alternative to having a puller it to loosen the axle nuts about 1/2 - 1 turn and reinserting the cotter pin. Then drive the vehicle around the neighborhood swerving back and forth. When you hear a "POP" that usually indicates that the hub popped loose on the axle, Then limp it back to the shop nice and easy and pull it off easy. I've never tried this as I have a puller, but I've seen it mentioned here a few times. Of course the vehicle needs to be drivable too... Quote
Los_Control Posted September 8, 2022 Report Posted September 8, 2022 You really do want the right tool for the job in this case. I bought mine from ebay a couple years ago for $80. I see today $46-$95. Using the dog bone handle I used a 3 pound sledge hammer on it. You put enough force on the puller where I was just a bit hesitant to apply more .... Tap on the side of the drum a few times .... walk away for 5-10 min. Whack it again a few more time & let it sit ... 20-30 minutes mine popped free with such a force the dog bone handle flew 3' & hit the side of the house. The other side came off in 5 min. You really want a good tool, a lesser tool may fail before you get a tough drum off. You will probably never use the tool except for a old car with tapered axles .... no good way around it though. 1 1 Quote
dgrinnan Posted September 8, 2022 Author Report Posted September 8, 2022 Thanks for every ones feedback. It is very helpful just understanding the mechanics of what is going on. I am use to fighting with pulling the drum on a more modern car. Knowing how this is set up keeps me from doing something stupid and causing damage. Quote
Bluzhog53 Posted September 9, 2022 Report Posted September 9, 2022 Just to add… you do want to back the brake shoes off before you start the pulling. Another good idea is if your using that puller is to take that dog bone strike off when you let it sit. I had it come off pretty good once too but for the most part it should break loose on one of your hits. Good luck! Quote
DakotaFrank Posted September 9, 2022 Report Posted September 9, 2022 (edited) Model T and Model A Fords, Studebakers and lots of other cars/trucks had tapered axles and hubs, and require a similar puller. A friend gave me a homemade puller that I have yet to use. Edited September 9, 2022 by DakotaFrank Quote
P15-D24 Posted September 9, 2022 Report Posted September 9, 2022 https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/ Quote
dgrinnan Posted October 3, 2022 Author Report Posted October 3, 2022 It took a while but I finally got to removing my rear hubs/drums. I was very nervous about some of the accounts of beating on the dog bone, walking away for a while and beating on them again. I was very lucky. I tightened the hub puller, gave it a couple smacks and the hub popped right off. 1 Quote
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