Bingster Posted August 22, 2022 Report Posted August 22, 2022 My radiator is in and I installed new hoses. But I did notice residue from a couple small leaks at the bottom of the radiator. I would think that I should have an operating radiator if I plan to run the engine for any length of time after first start-up. I assume anti-freeze would be best as opposed to water this time of year going into the fall and winter. Quote
plymouthcranbrook Posted August 22, 2022 Report Posted August 22, 2022 (edited) Short runs without coolant are ok. But anything more than a few minutes are not a good idea. If you fill it with coolant(can be just water for temporary usage but don't leave it that way when it gets old) and seal it you can run it for a bit longer but really I would consider getting any fairly reasonable radiator and if you are going to run it for a while, an electric fan to blow through the radiator while it's running, Edited August 23, 2022 by plymouthcranbrook Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted August 22, 2022 Report Posted August 22, 2022 26 minutes ago, plymouthcranbrook said: but really I would consider getting any fairly reasonable radiator and if you are going to run it for a while, an electric fan to blow through the radiator while it's running, Hey, I never thought of that! I'll do that when I start my 48 DeSoto, which will be very soon. 1 Quote
Bingster Posted August 22, 2022 Author Report Posted August 22, 2022 Right now my decision is to take the original radiator to a shop or but an aluminum one. Quote
Los_Control Posted August 22, 2022 Report Posted August 22, 2022 To be honest with you, I would try and flush the radiator out just simply with a hose. remove the lower hose & run water through it til it comes out clean ... even better if you remove the radiator, turn it upside down & run water into the bottom side & back flush it. I would want the radiator installed for the first start if possible. My first start, I quickly learned the reason why my truck was parked is because it was overheating. The engine was plugged and not a radiator issue. While my radiator functions, it is completely shot with 6 or 10 leaks in the radiator core. It will run & idle fine with water dripping out of it. When you goose the throttle the fan sucks the water out and disperses it for a proper shower. Point here is, A proper honeycomb radiator rebuild would likely be over $1k ..... We do not even know if the engine runs yet! I myself would spend a afternoon with the radiator .... Then on first start take notes on just how bad it really is and if worth repairing or just go with a modern Aluminum radiator. I have already bought the new radiator for mine, I will paint it black to look authentic, only a purist would know. But it will function. I would not send the radiator off for repair before first using it to see just how bad it really is, same time it is needed to see what condition your engine is in. Quote
Sniper Posted August 23, 2022 Report Posted August 23, 2022 If this is involving a freshly rebuilt engine being fired up for the first time, you will need a good radiator and as mentioned having a powerful fan to help blow air thru it is a good idea and if it is a first fire up after a rebuild, just use water till it is broken in and you deal with any leaks. Convert to antifreeze when done, you did put in a block drain? Quote
Bingster Posted August 24, 2022 Author Report Posted August 24, 2022 This is a first start-up after 10 years of sitting. It turned over a couple of years ago with no plugs. I'll fill it with water first time. I did try to open the drain cock a couple years ago but as I recall it broke. I suppose that will be my first repair. I had no idea it was so much to take a radiator in. Would it have to be re-cored? I thought they just boiled it out and fixed any leaks. Naive of me. How much are the aluminum ones these days? I talked to a guy who owns a classic car shop and he says things have doubled. Quote
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