Torque reference

[harmony]

I'm not very impressed with the torque information page in the service manual for my car ( 48 Chrysler Windsor C38 )

Is there a pdf file or web page somewhere in internet land that has ALL the toque specs for my car?

At the moment I'm wondering what the torque setting should be for the nuts on the pinion housing to differential should be?

How about the castle nuts on the tie rod ends?

[Sniper]

I know what you mean, details are missing.

 

I use a generic torque chart when I need info like that and the FSM doesn't have it.

 

https://www.fastenal.com/content/merch_rules/images/fcom/content-library/Torque-Tension Reference Guide.pdf

[harmony]

3 minutes ago, Sniper said:

I know what you mean, details are missing.

 

I use a generic torque chart when I need info like that and the FSM doesn't have it.

 

https://www.fastenal.com/content/merch_rules/images/fcom/content-library/Torque-Tension Reference Guide.pdf

Thanks, I'll print that out and hang it on my beer frig in my shop.  On my rear end, there are brass "squash" washers behind the nuts.  Would that make any difference on the torque setting?

[Sniper]

Those sound like crush washers, good luck finding a spec there, lol.  I generally tighten to the low end of the bolt spec, then tighten it if needed to stop a leak, not to eceed the bolt max torque spec. 

[harmony]

2 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Those sound like crush washers, good luck finding a spec there, lol.  I generally tighten to the low end of the bolt spec, then tighten it if needed to stop a leak, not to eceed the bolt max torque spec. 

Yes crush washers, sorry I used the wrong word.  I have one that seems to be weeping slightly so since I have the old girl up on blocks I think I'll replace all the crush washers one at a time.  I'll take your advise on tightening them, thanks.

[Bryan]

Just be careful about dry vs oiled torqued specs. I had that on the carrier bearings of my 1992 Dakota.  It seemed high what was in the book (from memory somewhere between 85-100 ft/lbs), and the bolts were stopped at about 45-50 ft/lbs.. Got suspicious and found dry specs were a lot higher than oiled (what we normally would encounter).   In the absence of any info, for small bolts about as tight as you can get it with one hand on a normal length box end or ratchet.

[Sniper]

If you read the notes on the chart I linked it gives dry vs lubricated numbers.  As well as numbers depending on the plating, or lack thereof, on the bolts. 

[Loren]

One has to remember before the war torque wrenches were not that common, so there was no need for torque specs. lol

And a few years earlier measurements were given in factions of an inch because micrometers were not common.

Between Henry Leland (Cadillac & Lincoln founder) and Henry Ford “Armory Practice” was brought to automobile production as it had been to the firearms industry. They had to for mass production to work. 
Highly stressed aircraft parts were the only things that needed carefully torqued fasteners.

If you go back to the mid 1950s car magazines you will start to see advertisements for torque wrenches, not so much before.

[TodFitch]

To add to @Loren part of becoming a good mechanic in the 1920s, 30s, 40s, and maybe even into the 1960s was developing a feel for how tight a nut or bolt should be.

 

For what it is worth, there are no torque specifications ever published for my 1933. Not even for head stud nuts or engine bearing caps. I use those for the most similar later vehicles.

[harmony]

In 55 or so years, I've never had a wheel fall off and I've never torqued the nuts/studs on either, so I must be on my way to becoming a good mechanic. ? 

[harmony]

Thanks everybody for all your help.

[Racer-X-]

I'm old.  My wrist cracks at about 16 ft. lb., my elbow pops at about 32 ft. lb. and my shoulder pops at around 120 ft. lb.   So no need for a torque wrench, right?

 

Seriously, I have a collection of torque wrenches.  I wouldn't touch a modern car without them, even though with my years of experience, I can come very close just by feel.  Wheel nuts are especially critical on modern cars (and likely on these cars with modern disc brakes on the front).  Too much torque will contribute greatly to warped brake rotors.