Starting to take a closer look at the 49

[p15-1948]

Hi, bought a 49 P18 late last winter and have lightly driven it this summer.  A lot of around town; only one out of town thirty minutes each way.  Now I'm getting about looking more closely at it.  1.  It idles fast.  I'm attaching a photo of the carb, I think the lower screw is the idle adjustment.  I can't get it to move one way or the other.  I've sprayed the screw with Krolloil and letting it soak over night.  Car starts REALLY easy, but idles at about 1100rpm.  2.  Some of the grease zerks do not want to take grease.  Can I take them out and clean them. or just replace them?

 

Non-trouble items every oil pan bolt was loose to some extent.  It was supposed to just had the gasket replaced.  Hoping the oil leak slows down a little,  What looks like a new/rebuilt fuel/vacuum pump one bolt was a little loose, the other I could see two or three threads showing.  Air cleaner looks like it hasn't been serviced in a long time.

 

Story is the car has just turned 34,000 while I've had it and had never left the little town in Southern Kansas.  We're the third family to own it.  The previous owner had it for ten years and put 300 miles on it.

 

 

The very bottom long thin screw is what I think is the idle adjustment, next to the brass fitting.  Not sure what the larger screw is above it on the linkage.  Thanks

 

Edited October 21, 2021 by p15-1948
hit submit to soon :)

[Sniper]

Generally speaking, if there are two adjuster screws one is for the base idle (choke fully open) and one is for the fast idle (choke closed).  Is your choke fully open when it's idling at 1100?  Make sure the throttle linkage isn't forcing the carb off idle, looks like it's actually pushing on the carb linkage but it might just be the angle of the picture.  I guess you can try to clean the zerks, I'd just replace them.

[plymouthcranbrook]

With zerks  occasionally the ball in the middle of them will get stuck with dried grease, road yuck, whatever. You might take a light ball peen hammer and gently tap the ball and see if it frees them up. I have had good success doing that over the years.

Edited October 21, 2021 by plymouthcranbrook

[p15-1948]

56 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Generally speaking, if there are two adjuster screws one is for the base idle (choke fully open) and one is for the fast idle (choke closed).  Is your choke fully open when it's idling at 1100?  Make sure the throttle linkage isn't forcing the carb off idle, looks like it's actually pushing on the carb linkage but it might just be the angle of the picture.  I guess you can try to clean the zerks, I'd just replace them.

 

Yes, the engine is warm and the choke blade is wide open.  I'll check the linkage length, I had checked previously and the linkage is not is a bind anywhere.

Edited October 21, 2021 by p15-1948

[p15-1948]

On 10/20/2021 at 8:21 PM, p15-1948 said:

Hi, bought a 49 P18 late last winter and have lightly driven it this summer.  A lot of around town; only one out of town thirty minutes each way.  Now I'm getting about looking more closely at it.  1.  It idles fast.  I'm attaching a photo of the carb, I think the lower screw is the idle adjustment.  I can't get it to move one way or the other.  I've sprayed the screw with Krolloil and letting it soak over night.  Car starts REALLY easy, but idles at about 1100rpm.  2.  Some of the grease zerks do not want to take grease.  Can I take them out and clean them. or just replace them?

 

Non-trouble items every oil pan bolt was loose to some extent.  It was supposed to just had the gasket replaced.  Hoping the oil leak slows down a little,  What looks like a new/rebuilt fuel/vacuum pump one bolt was a little loose, the other I could see two or three threads showing.  Air cleaner looks like it hasn't been serviced in a long time.

 

Story is the car has just turned 34,000 while I've had it and had never left the little town in Southern Kansas.  We're the third family to own it.  The previous owner had it for ten years and put 300 miles on it.

 

 

The very bottom long thin screw is what I think is the idle adjustment, next to the brass fitting.  Not sure what the larger screw is above it on the linkage.  Thanks

 

Dud, the top screw is the clamp holding the linkage to the carb.  Haven't worked on it the last week or so, but yesterday just got a click click when I went to start it.  Going to check it step by step (thanks Keith).  Voltmeter says the battery is strong, cable is good from the battery to starter solenoid (same voltage as battery).  Now a question.  the cable from the solenoid to the starter...it should show voltage with the key in the on position?  Should there be a difference in voltage when the key goes to the start position?  The solenoid does click when the key is in the start position.

Edited October 31, 2021 by p15-1948

[Sniper]

The solenoid only passed voltage thru it when the key is in the start mode.

 

I would suggest a voltage drop test. 

 

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/automotive/electrical-automotive-troubleshooting

 

Don't forget to do a drop test across the solenoid when in start.

[p15-1948]

Thank you, the starting problem is fixed.  Voltage drop at the starter.  As it turns out the connection at the starter looked good, but when I took it apart there was some corrosion present.  Cleaned it all up with emery paper, put it back together...all is well with starting.

 

The fast idle issue is fixed.  Had to PB Blast and Kroil oil the adjustment screw for 48 hours. Turns fine now.  That was another where the threads looked good, but evidently right were it passes through the bracket there must have been some issue.

 

Fixing the idle let me see another issue.  It was idling fast enough before I could not detect a miss, I can now that it is idling at the proper speed.  This one is OK, I had already ordered spark plugs for it.  I'm pretty sure the ones in it now are original to the car.  I almost hate tuning it up, it starts so easy.  But, it's time to do it.

 

After the tune-up I'm going to adjust the brakes now that the proper tool for the job.  I had to replaced shoes and wheel cylinders as soon as I got the car as it did not have hardly any brakes.  Master cylinder seems fine.

 

Thanks for the guidance, I'm sure I'll be asking more questions.

[Dan Hiebert]

On 10/20/2021 at 9:21 PM, p15-1948 said:

Non-trouble items every oil pan bolt was loose to some extent.  It was supposed to just had the gasket replaced.  Hoping the oil leak slows down a little,  What looks like a new/rebuilt fuel/vacuum pump one bolt was a little loose, the other I could see two or three threads showing.  Air cleaner looks like it hasn't been serviced in a long time.

 

I have to snug those bolts on our D24 every year, and sometimes during the driving season when we put good miles on it.  I put new bolts & lock washers in a couple years ago, which helped alleviate the loosening somewhat, but the car still leaks oil like there's no tomorrow.  Seals need replacement I imagine, but for now I chalk it up to "character".

[p15-1948]

Got the plugs changed, oil on them is PB Blaster I let soak overnight,  I think the previous owners got their money's worth.    What plugs did the car come from the factory with?  Thanks

 

[Gnome]

those are champion 511 and are non resistor, champion 562 are the resistor type if you want those. Rockautoparts.com says autolite 295 are the "oe style" 

 

Edited November 12, 2021 by Gnome

[Booger]

OMG look at those plugs!  Autolite 306

[Booger]

You might want to start with a fresh pan gasket.  clean sludge out of pan. Get a Plymouth Service Manual

[p15-1948]

On 11/12/2021 at 7:56 AM, Booger said:

OMG look at those plugs!  Autolite 306

306's are what went back in it.