Found my camshaft! - Pulling motor on 1948 Dodge.

[48jumpdoors]

On 9/29/2021 at 3:03 PM, Sniper said:

Oh the snowball will roll.  You'll want to clean up those rusty headlight buckets and paint them, then you see something else that needs taken care of "while you are there" and on and on, lol.  I am there too.

 

 

Thats why I do this hobby, keeps me busy with the challenges with much support from my Bride!!

[Bryan]

Another crazy question..yesterday I was in the garage, concrete floors were wet like I had rain seeping in. Most of the surface.  It was humid outside.  Well, it rained again last night so this morning I opened the doors to air it out.  Low humidity outside.  The floors are completely dry..  Do concrete floors absorb that much humidity from the air to appear soaking we?

[kencombs]

Happens in my shop too.   After a cool/cold spell followed by a warm and humid day.  The atmospheric water vapor condenses on the cold surface.  that will also cause surface rust on any's That's unprotected steel or iron surfaces..  That's why all the newly worked sheet metal on my projects gets a wipe down with Ospho when quitting for the day.  And my woodworking tools are coated with paste wax.

Edited December 12, 2021 by kencombs

[Bryan]

Finally got the broke valve out. Only showing 3 pictures of it but took various steps with different nuts, skinny bolts of different lengths, etc.  

[Bryan]

Also cleaned up the cylinders a little with WD and 600 grit, plus scraping the carbon edge off.  Can't really get my fingernail to catch under ridge, but given the scars on a few walls I'll have it rebored the smallest oversize possible. Might measure today but think it's moot.  Time for new guides and decking the block slightly.

[Sniper]

52 minutes ago, Bryan said:

Finally got the broke valve out. Only showing 3 pictures of it but took various steps with different nuts, skinny bolts of different lengths, etc.  

 

That's pretty much what I did as well.  But I would runt he tappet adjuster in and out to extend the reach of whatever I was pushing with,

[Bryan]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

 

That's pretty much what I did as well.  But I would runt he tappet adjuster in and out to extend the reach of whatever I was pushing with,

Yeah I did that at first, but I run it all the way out. After that instead of trying to thread it back in, I just went to stacking nuts. Was afraid I would ruin the tappet adjuster thread if I had it too far out with a lot of force on it.

[Bryan]

I tried using my new valve spring compressor yesterday as a relief from messing with the crank nut.  It didn't work either. It's the Stens model from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OK9TRK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details   Problem with it is the width control for the forks is they only control maximum width, the forks can slip inwards which makes them come off the spring. Also the Stens tool only compresses inward, not outward, which I found useful with the KD 700 tool. With the KD 700 you can rest the bottom fork on the ledge next to the tappet, put the top fork under the spring and compress it upwards. One good thing about Amazon, if you need help and it gives you a "cannot return" message and endless menu loop..always put in "something else" and it eventually gets you to live chat. 99.9% of the time the person on the chat will give you a refund.  Reckon I'll be fixing my broke KD 700 with a solid metal thick connecting arm and grade 8,  1/4" screw.

[Bryan]

Worked on my KD 700 tool since other stuff stalled.  Didn't finish but got most of the parts cut. Used motorcycle wrenches and a piece of angle.

[Bryan]

Today's work will be fixing the KD 700 tool and taking out more valves. Arranging parts in baggies.  I'm leaving the crank center bolt for the shop that will remove some broken studs.  After bending the 1/2" drive and seeing the mount plate (not the motor mount plate) on the engine shift, that was enough for me.   Tempted to try to remove the remaining manifold studs, but probably not today.  I know the front and rear studs are a little worn, minimum replace those. Not feeling very confident right now. I entered into my WORD overhaul document to check the # 3 rod, to make sure I didn't bend it.

[Bryan]

On 12/13/2021 at 1:41 PM, Sniper said:

 

That's pretty much what I did as well.  But I would runt he tappet adjuster in and out to extend the reach of whatever I was pushing with,

On the tappet adjusters I'm noticing that initially it takes a lot of force to adjust them down.  Yesterday was using normal open end wrenches, had to really strain to adjust one down. Like the others, after that they move easier but stiff.  Considering that they are in oil all the time, you would think they would be easier.  Is this normal?

[keithb7]

Possibly interference fit threads? So they won’t move while in service?

[Sniper]

Or someone used the wrong loctite.

[Bryan]

Finally got my KD 700 fixed. Had to go to Lowes to get bolts and nuts. Took a while to get the holes just right so the bolts would be tight but able to turn.

[Bryan]

Well it works. Got one valve out easy. The exhaust on # 1 is a pain.  It was sticking. I would compress the spring up and stop, spray the valve stem, let the spring compressor down, pull it out and whack the valve.  Did not want to use my just fixed spring compressor to force the valve up. Finally got the valve all the way up, the retainer clips won't let loose. Whacked on the top of the valve like the others, wouldn't release. Didn't want to do it too hard. Anybody know a method of making them release?

[Sniper]

Whack them harder, or soak them down with brake fluid to cut the goo holding them in place. 

[Bryan]

Been sick since the Lowes run on Saturday.  Bought some donuts, thought it was that, but my wife wasn't sick.  After the stomach issues settled down now have a mild cold (hopefully).   Didn't do jack today..

[Bryan]

Got a gift card (debit) from my brother so I ordered parts before they disappear.

[Bryan]

Well, that was a matter of 1 try less than 1 minute.

[Bryan]

On 12/18/2021 at 5:01 PM, Sniper said:

Whack them harder, or soak them down with brake fluid to cut the goo holding them in place. 

Figured out a way to do it.  Tried whacking a little but was afraid I'd bend the tool again. What I did was jam an open ended wrench in the back and pulled the tool out. Then I whacked the crap out of it.

 

Edited December 27, 2021 by Bryan

[Bryan]

Think I'm going to use new valves, keepers, guides and some tappets. I have 2 tappets that were stuck and one I abused getting a valve out.

[Sniper]

Nice job figuring that out

[Bryan]

One more thing to fix..Don't think this is normal.

[Sniper]

Actually, that probably is normal the tip is supported by the pilot bushing in the crank. 

[kencombs]

Normal, a little bearing wear but nothing to worry about.  And, what sniper said.