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Pinion seal leak


JSabah

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I found that oil is being flung from the pinion oil seal. I’ve ordered a new seal and have now taken the flange off. The seal looks relatively new (ie still shinny) but it is obviously leaking. The flange doesn’t appear to be too worn -if I slide the new seal over, it does seem tight and the rubber has to open up to accommodate the flange. 
 

(1) is there a speedi sleeve I should use just in case, or just try the new seal. (2) Not having the special removal tool mentioned in the workshop manual, what works? (3) What gear oil should I refill the diff with?

 

pictures show flange, straightedge on flange for wear, old seal in place 

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B903858D-B1A4-4F62-B297-D7A600ACB04F.jpeg

4A72B318-390E-467C-BEF4-14D30E2900AF.jpeg

7E2C2AC9-1FE4-4399-AB65-45F61DCCEB16.jpeg

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Speed i-sleaves work great! Clean the area well and put a small amount on epoxy glue on it (fills the grooves ) the install the sleeve to cover over the wear (shiny) areas. These are not real wide, just enough to cover seal wear area, not the whole thing. Read and follow instructions and don't forget to remove the lip on it that has on it  to drive on sleeve. Buy it then it will make sense. They are not real cheap but worth it.

 

DJ

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  • 1 month later...

@JSabah Did you have any luck with fixing this leak yet? I am having the same problem with mine even after replacing the seal with an OEM style. I measured the flange on mine and there is similar wear to what yours shows, but I'm curious if just the speedi sleeve will fix that issue or if I'll have to yank the whole seal out again and maybe try a neoprene one this time...wish I had thought to check all this the first time!!

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55 minutes ago, 49WINDS said:

@JSabah Did you have any luck with fixing this leak yet? I am having the same problem with mine even after replacing the seal with an OEM style. I measured the flange on mine and there is similar wear to what yours shows, but I'm curious if just the speedi sleeve will fix that issue or if I'll have to yank the whole seal out again and maybe try a neoprene one this time...wish I had thought to check all this the first time!!

After test fitting the seal on the yoke (before installing) I decided that it really didn’t seem like enough wear to be an issue or warrant a sleeve as it still felt tight. I did however take someone else’s advice who said that their method had worked for them when there was just a bit of wear. They said to spray several coats (build up) of rustolium rusty metal primer. Then wait a week to let it absolutely fully cure and then sand with a block until you can just see the metal - the low spots will obviously still be the primer. I used 320 and 800 grit and it felt perfectly smooth and level. Seems to have worked .... or maybe I just messed the 1st seal up as I had never done it before ?

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13 hours ago, 49WINDS said:

@JSabah Did you have any luck with fixing this leak yet? I am having the same problem with mine even after replacing the seal with an OEM style. I measured the flange on mine and there is similar wear to what yours shows, but I'm curious if just the speedi sleeve will fix that issue or if I'll have to yank the whole seal out again and maybe try a neoprene one this time...wish I had thought to check all this the first time!!

The NOS seal I installed, leaked. Flanged looked similar to one shown. Installed speedi sleeve and neopreme seal, no leak.

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12 hours ago, JSabah said:

After test fitting the seal on the yoke (before installing) I decided that it really didn’t seem like enough wear to be an issue or warrant a sleeve as it still felt tight. I did however take someone else’s advice who said that their method had worked for them when there was just a bit of wear. They said to spray several coats (build up) of rustolium rusty metal primer. Then wait a week to let it absolutely fully cure and then sand with a block until you can just see the metal - the low spots will obviously still be the primer. I used 320 and 800 grit and it felt perfectly smooth and level. Seems to have worked .... or maybe I just messed the 1st seal up as I had never done it before ?

 

Instead of messing around with bandaid "repairs", just install the speedi sleeve and new seal and be done with it.  :)

 

I left the lip on the sleeve that I installed on the crankshaft hub, didn't see any need to remove it and possible damage the sleeve.

 

The sleeve is readily available, easy to install and is a final solution. No brainer.

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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On 5/31/2021 at 7:38 AM, kencombs said:

Agree w/sleeve.   Neoprene seal preferred but if using a NOS seal be sure to soak at least hrs before installing.  I like ATF for the soak.   Absorbs much more readily than 90w.  

That's one thing I didn't know about when installing the NOS was to soak it. Either way I think I'll do like most people have here and put a sleeve and new seal in it. Was there a specific part # that anyone has found that is a good fit or is it easier to just take measurements yourself and go to NAPA?

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12 hours ago, 49WINDS said:

That's one thing I didn't know about when installing the NOS was to soak it. Either way I think I'll do like most people have here and put a sleeve and new seal in it. Was there a specific part # that anyone has found that is a good fit or is it easier to just take measurements yourself and go to NAPA?

There are very good instructions on the SKF site for the speedi sleeve.

  https://www.skf.com/us/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve

Once you get the PN from that site,search the web. I was able to find a one  to fit my 56 Plymouth crank pulley for less than 50% of the NAPA price.  There are several sources other than SKF, for some sizes.

 

 

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