What's the best driveshaft repair?

[rallyace]

I had a vibration in my trunnion style driveshaft on my 51 Cambridge so I bought the parts and rebuilt it. It still vibrated but not as bad. I took it to a truck drive line shop to have it balanced and they could not get it to balance as one of the trunnion shafts was off center by about 0.050" and they would not try to center it. They built a new shaft with Spicer u-joints for $325 and it solved my problem with readily available new parts. It was well worth the cost in my opinion.

[greg g]

Some times swapping the drive shaft end for end will address a vibration situation.  If all your driving is on smooth roads, the balls never move much along the length of the trunion.  This will cause the trunions to wear in the same position making one spot at both ends to wear. Even as little as the amount mentioned can cause an annoying vibration.  When you swap ends, this will move the balls away from the worn spots.  Honda had a similar issue with some of its all wheel drive cars like the c

CIVIC STATION WAGON, EARLY CRVs, and Elements. Since the rear differential was mounted solidly to the sub frame, the drive shaft never moved up or down, the u joints would wear,ovaling out, causing vibration.  When the customer was told the ujoints weren't available individually and the whole drive shaft needed to be replaced which included the new joints.  This caused a lot of unhappy customers, a run on low milage drive shafts from the recycle yards, and a drive shaft remanufacturing business to start up.

[knuckleharley]

3 minutes ago, greg g said:

Some times swapping the drive shaft end for end will address a vibration situation.  

Thanks for the tip. Even after all these years,such a thing had never even occured to me.

 

Learn something new every day,huh?

[Sniper]

Assuming the driveshaft can be swapped end for end.  For example, my 65 Cuda has a ball and trunnion on the front and a U joint on the rear.  So in that case, which probably isn't applicable here, I can't do that.

[Bryan]

On 12/23/2021 at 5:57 AM, Bryan said:

I'll probably go this route with my P24 Dodge with Fluid Drive.  I'd rather pay $100-200 over for normal work & parts than get "shafted" by the oh so rare specialty stores. Only might use something different than the 2-2-349. Seems strange with rectangular ear piece.   Maybe if they come back in stock something like this.. https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p12385_5259801_flange_yoke_replacement_for_old_dodge_detroit_pot_bo.html

Going to have to measure the bolt pattern and flange diameter. Christmas day so maybe just piddle around.

[Bryan]

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p12385_5259801_flange_yoke_replacement_for_old_dodge_detroit_pot_bo.html   Well this part definitely is not for my 1948 Dodge 3 spd Fluid Drive.  My flange is measuring 3 5/8" (3.625") wide.   Rectangular bolt spacing is 2 - 3/16" (2.1875) and 1 - 13/16" (1.8125)  <- Probably 1.84.  Diagonal bolt spacing is 2 7/8" (2.875).   Driveshaft is 2 1/2 diameter.   Flange to flange (outside) length (laying on back bumper) is 55" L.

Edited December 25, 2021 by Bryan
Mismeasured 1 13/16. Everything else spot on.

[Bryan]

As I said in another post, I found the 2-2-349 fit my bolt pattern on both ends of my driveshaft.  Since I haven't been feeling well, and got bored, I ordered the 2nd flange, and ordered the 2-3-8001KX,  2-40-1521 and 2-28-437.  Not worried about the tube or universals since I don't think these will be hard to find later.   For the 8001KX I got the Neapco instead of the Dana since it looked a little cleaner cut and heavier.  Be aware that Walmart and Ebay have off brand parts that are a lot cheaper. On Ebay some sellers are listing off brand and calling them Dana Spicer.