Front motor mount (218 engine)

[WPVT]

I'd like to hear from anyone who has replaced their front rubber motor mount, specifically, whether it made an appreciable difference in the amount of vibration transmitted from the engine to the frame and cab. My rear mounts are still in good shape, but it's hard to assess the front mounts, as I doubt they were very cushioned to begin with. It looks like a fairly tedious job, and I don't want to do it unless it would make a difference that I could feel. 

Thanks.  

[Tooljunkie]

My understanding is the “floating power” is one of the smoother setups. The rear is likely whats transmitting the vibrations due to its proximity to the cab. I really cant offer much more than that, as mine got a new front mount, and was not running before i replaced it. I did shim the existing rear rubber mounts with an extra layer of rubber .

[greg g]

Not difficult.  Pull the fan off, get a piece of wood to spread the weight of the engine, disconnect the top nuts, jack up theengine, remove the nuts need the front cross member holding the u bolts,. Wiggle jiggle mount to release the rubber upper pad. Install the new one and redo the lowers and drop the  engine back into place.

[WPVT]

Thanks. I'm thinking an older front mount may transmit vibration to the frame and then to the steering column which is mounted nearby. But I don't really know. That's why I'd like to hear someone's before and after comparison.

I suppose I could loosen the existing mount enough to temporarily break the hard mechanical connection and see what that feels like.  

[greg g]

Other sources of vibration you want want to check crank vibration damper they can be problematic if they start to delaminate, and ujoints and drive shaft can be a source also. It the rubber in the upper floating power setup gets mushy it will collapse and telegraph vibes in stead of insulation.  Also check exhaust pipes and heat shields for primary down pipe if so equipped.

[JBNeal]

That front motor mount is also keeping that fan from putting a hickey on that radiator...saw an old one let go once, and it wasn't pretty...swapping that front mount is not a difficult chore, raising the engine slightly with a floorjack + 2x6 across the bottom of the oil pan works neatly as greg described, similar for the rear rubber...cannot stress enough how important it is to replace all the powertrain support rubber once it degrades, hardens, disintegrates...

[WPVT]

I disconnected the front mount and jacked up the engine just to see if vibration was still being transmitted to the cab. I didn't feel any difference, so I'm glad I didn't go to the trouble of replacing the mount.

I checked both U-joints again and this time found some play in the front, so I replaced both front and rear universal joints. It made a big difference rolling down the road. 

Am I the only one who has replaced universal joints and managed to install them so that the grease fittings are inaccessible ? I don't remember having to pay attention to that detail last time I installed one.   

[Los_Control]

You're not alone .... replaced u-joints carrier bearing on my cheby last year ... greased everything before installing drive line ... except the front needed to be done after install.

That one is in backwards and can not grease it until I pull it out and turn it around. I plan to just pull it and put in another $15 joint and not re-use it ... depends how well it comes out.

 

Bet I am the only one to change a 3rd member because of a bad u-joint  

Drove this old nissan for years, may actually been a Datsun ... do not remember.  Pull up to a stop sign and push in the clutch and it felt like the rear end was locking up and rear wheels would come to a skid without brakes. I just replaced the 3rd member from another from the wrecking yard ...

I did check the drive line first, but usual push and pull and there was no play.

New rear end and same issue, pulled the drive line back out and checked closer, and one was frozen solid with rust. Why there was no play when checked.

I was young then, I learned to check a little closer.

[Tooljunkie]

I change lots of u-joints,but get so wrapped up in cups going in and not dropping needles that i forget to point it the right way.