Alternator / Ammeter - Voltmeter

[Richard Cope]

For those that have switched to an alternator, are you stilling using the original +/- 30 Ammeter or have you switched to a voltmeter or possibly a combination of the two?   Interested to hear from those who have went down this path.

 

Regards, RC

[Sniper]

When I first converted I ran the original ammeter, no problems.  But I updated the entire dash and ended up with a voltmeter.

 

 

 

 

 

[Sam Buchanan]

2 hours ago, Richard Cope said:

For those that have switched to an alternator, are you stilling using the original +/- 30 Ammeter or have you switched to a voltmeter or possibly a combination of the two?   Interested to hear from those who have went down this path.

 

Regards, RC

 

Still using the ammeter, it works as it should. While I was troubleshooting the old generator and regulator I installed a voltmeter....I left it in place after upgrading to the alternator since it was in an out-of-the-way location and is actually a better indicator of the charging system status.

 

[maok]

I find the ammeter more useful than a volt meter. I have both volt and ammeter in my '28 and just the ammeter in the '37

[Wes Flippen]

I use a voltmeter. Didn't like the high amperage of an ammeter flowing behind the dash. I did however strip down a voltmeter and mounted it using the original ammeter gauge. Reads backwards, but tells me that my alternator is charging properly.

[Adam H P15 D30]

I don't like ammeters but that's a personal choice...  When I added a 70a alternator verses a 40a ammeter I decided it was time to change to a volt meter but I wanted to install it in place of the ammeter and not as a separate gauge, another personal choice.  Here's what I did...

 

Original ammeter

 

New gauge attached to ammeter face

 

I left the numbers and glued the original white needle on.  Straight down is 12v any movement to the left is charging

 

Picture with engine running

Edited July 1, 2020 by Adam H P15 D30

[Wes Flippen]

1 hour ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

I don't like ammeters but that's a personal choice...  When I added a 70a alternator verses a 40a ammeter I decided it was time to change to a volt meter but I wanted to install it in place of the ammeter and not as a separate gauge, another personal choice.  Here's what I did...

 

Original ammeter

 

New gauge attached to ammeter face

 

I left the numbers and glued the original white needle on.  Straight down is 12v any movement to the left is charging

 

Picture with engine running

That is exactly how I did mine. ? 

[Richard Cope]

Thank everyone for your comments.  I am use to  the information that the ammeter provides, however concerned  with all of the current going through a gauge of such low capacity (30-0-30) and its age.  It's located in an area  that is challenging to get to and if it overheated, wouldn't be aware until too late.  When I rewire the car, will disconnect the ammeter  and add a voltmeter under the dash.   Want to keep the stock look for the gauges, have a broken unit purchased at Hershey while back, will look into mounting the face plate onto a voltmeter, nice work Sniper & Adam.  Will start looking for a voltmeter of similar size.

RC

 

 

[Andydodge]

My 1940 dodge uses the stock, original instruments as shown and the car has been 12volts since 1973 when I installed the 318 poly......the ammeter reads amps, albeit via a Lucas approx 60 amp alternator and seems to be working fine, admittedly I have a battery isolator switch which is that small thing on the side of the console....... andyd  

[Go Fleiter]

I use the original Ammeter, a modern temp- display, plus rpm -, 6V-  and 12V meters.

 

I appreciate all of these, although the additions were originally planned as provisorial for learning,

But I still like to use them all.

 

OD:

When putting an overdrive 2013 without really understandig it´s subtleties, I made an extra panel

under the "All Weather Comfort" controls to check OD´s heartbeat.

The LEDs show the status of OD solenoid, Governor switch and Pawl engagement.

I control the OD via a toggle switch plus the usual handle and cable. I didn´t install the Kickback Switch.

The ugly temp display can be hidden by a small trap.

 

additional 12V Alternator:

Earlier, for a second 12V harness, a second 12V alternator had replaced the 6 to 12 V converter (eating too much power from the 6V generator and not powerful enough, especially for a extra higfh performance cooling fan). For peak needs compensation and while engine off I had added a 12 V Gel- Battery too.

 

Extra panel:

When building the extra panel,  I concentrated all the additions in one panel,

I took advantage to add a 12V meter too.

 As no holes were drilled, everything can easily be dismantled to original configuration if wanted.

 

Greetings from Düsseldorf!

Go

 

 

 

Edited July 2, 2020 by Go Fleiter