chuckle of the day

[Los_Control]

Thought would share my progress on fixing my old fender. Thing is pretty totaled, was smashed flat in the rear. Has some stretched metal, I beat it flat and pops back out of shape. Needs some patch panels made. Had the common stress cracks, maybe more then usual from whatever accident caused the fender to be smashed flat.  The thing flopped around like a wet noodle because of the stress cracks/breaks. I had to clean the edges for welding a few inches at a time, then clamp and weld a inch at a time. Some spots are thin and got burnt through, some is just missing slivers and learning to fill in using the mig with a wooden backer block behind the hole.

Seems like the perfect fender to replace, or the perfect fender to learn fabrication on 

 

This welder I have owned for some time, only tried fluxcore welding with it and that sucks for sheet metal and body work.

Fluxcore we need to reverse the polarity on the machine, that shuts down 1/2 of it's functions and options, smallest wire you can get is .030, to heavy for sheet metal and instant burn through. probably fine for out in the field welding tractor parts back together.

 

So day 1 of using gas and .024 wire, back on AC polarity, this welder is sweet, it does exactly what I tell it. I just need practice.

Thought it might be fun to share my progress and see what I end up with in a few days when I think I may be finished .... Or not 

 

 

[kencombs]

I've had fair luck welding with copper backing on thin stuff.  Nothing fancy, just take a piece of copper tubing, hammer flat and bend to fit the part being welded.  clamp in place using long vise grip pliers* and weld.  Use very short beads, no more than 1/4 " and spaced about an inch.  Then come back and fill at the same rate.  The clamps also assure the two pieces are perfectly aligned.  The copper helps prevent burn-thru and lets you do some filling of wide fitups.

 

*like these:  They also come in longer versions, I have both.

[Los_Control]

3 minutes ago, kencombs said:

like these:  They also come in longer versions, I have both.

I actually have a couple, But still learning, I say yours have the "Duck bill" Mine do not .... I bought the wrong ones but they still work.

I have this silly buck, This plywood was the original seat when I bought the truck. I used the other end for something else.

Just saying, a professional would make a real buck with correct radius and width ... I am using the scrap in my pile.

I honestly think, if I can get it close and then mount it on the truck, I can then hammer and dolly it closer to what it needs.

 

If you look at the top left, then follow down diagonally to the right,  That is where the metal is stretched ... I am thinking I need to fix everything else first, then fix that section ... I could be wrong.

[kencombs]

IME, welding while mounted will aid in getting the right shape.  Mo better than trying to reshape an already welded piece.

[Los_Control]

45 minutes ago, kencombs said:

IME, welding while mounted will aid in getting the right shape.  Mo better than trying to reshape an already welded piece.

I think I know what you are saying ... same time the lip where it bolts on, needs to be replaced, no way to get correct radius until they are replaced.

No way to get the radius until the sides are welded together, to get a look at it ... still needs hammering and welding ... but is a start.

 

@kencombs I am interested in anything you have to say. I suspect. If I get the lip and rear of the fender where it should be, will probably cut out a section and replace my crappy welds and work.

I am only suggesting, I have nothing but trash and trying to bring it back to a usable  item. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

you should be able to get your radius from the bed....this is where a small brake and shrinker/stretcher will pay off in spades...

[Los_Control]

Ok I think I now understand, maybe I got lucky as it all is where it needs to be, this is just a one long bolt in the middle it is hanging on, it will line up and bolt on fine.

Is the rear of the fender where all the real damage is.  So I welded the middle first, so rigid enough to work on rear.

11 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

you should be able to get your radius from the bed....this is where a small brake and shrinker/stretcher will pay off in spades...

sure would .... think my plan for today is to make a cardboard template from the bed. cut the radius out of 16 gage ... somehow stick the two pieces together.

First thing is to fix the outside fender radius. Get that shape correct and will raise the inner side of fender closer to where it needs to be.

And I always have the other fender to look at for inspiration 

[Dodgeb4ya]

23 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Thought would share my progress on fixing my old fender. Thing is pretty totaled, was smashed flat in the rear. Has some stretched metal, I beat it flat and pops back out of shape. Needs some patch panels made. Had the common stress cracks, maybe more then usual from whatever accident caused the fender to be smashed flat.  The thing flopped around like a wet noodle because of the stress cracks/breaks. I had to clean the edges for welding a few inches at a time, then clamp and weld a inch at a time. Some spots are thin and got burnt through, some is just missing slivers and learning to fill in using the mig with a wooden backer block behind the hole.

Seems like the perfect fender to replace, or the perfect fender to learn fabrication on 

 

This welder I have owned for some time, only tried fluxcore welding with it and that sucks for sheet metal and body work.

Fluxcore we need to reverse the polarity on the machine, that shuts down 1/2 of it's functions and options, smallest wire you can get is .030, to heavy for sheet metal and instant burn through. probably fine for out in the field welding tractor parts back together.

 

So day 1 of using gas and .024 wire, back on AC polarity, this welder is sweet, it does exactly what I tell it. I just need practice.

Thought it might be fun to share my progress and see what I end up with in a few days when I think I may be finished .... Or not 

 

 

Mig welding using C25 gas and wire is set up DC current- reverse polarity.

Gun+..positive....work-..negative.

No AC doing the mig process.?

[Los_Control]

52 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Mig welding using C25 gas and wire is set up DC current- reverse polarity.

Yes sir you are correct, I had it exactly backwards. I had to look it up ... I was thinking those old lincoln 225 arc welders were DC and modern migs were AC, exactly opposite.