Tailgate support bracket

[Fiddy B2C]

Hello all,

I obviously Have a 1950 B2C.  I redid the bed a couple of years ago and I’m having doubts about where I put the center tailgate support bracket.  To me, it is really the only place it could go, but somehow it just doesn’t make sense.  I’ll post some pics and show you the part.  Can anyone tell me if this is supposed to go on top of the wood or between the wood and the back support?  I cannot imagine why this would be on top of the wood, but it fit there like it should have.  My truck had original wood in it and this piece was on top of the old boards, but that may have been a POs doing. 
 

As always, any help or pics are appreciated.

Steve

[Fiddy B2C]

[Fiddy B2C]

[Fiddy B2C]

[Los_Control]

Thats interesting, I have 2 of them, yellow one is a 48-50 1/2 ton converted to a utility trailer, other one is a 49 B1B Is it possible your 3/4 ton used a different style?

 

 

 

 

[Fiddy B2C]

I looked for the part at DCM, and they have one like mine, however, theirs has 2 countersunk bolt holes and 2 regular holes for bolts, where mine has a square hole for a carriage bolt, which leads me to believe it goes on top of the wood, then the 2 holes for bolting to the vertical surface under the bed....  I guess the 1/2 tons are different because the 3/4 and 1 tons have a wider bed?

Edited May 16, 2020 by Fiddy B2C

[bkahler]

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

Thats interesting, I have 2 of them, yellow one is a 48-50 1/2 ton converted to a utility trailer, other one is a 49 B1B Is it possible your 3/4 ton used a different style?

 

 

 

 

 

This is the same as my 51 B3B.

 

 

[JBNeal]

1 hour ago, Fiddy B2C said:

 

the parts manual I have updated 1May53 lists this as a center hinge, used on 3/4 and 1-tons, and should be mounted below the shovel strip, though I only have one applicable bed mostly intact and it appears that it is above the bed wood...I would assume that the bed wood needs to be notched out enough to accept this hinge so that the shovel strip is not too proud of the others, but I cannot find factory documentation to support this so customize as you wish...

 

the center hinge with the countersunk holes is for the B-4s...

 

 

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

Thats interesting, I have 2 of them, yellow one is a 48-50 1/2 ton converted to a utility trailer, other one is a 49 B1B Is it possible your 3/4 ton used a different style?

 

 

I am unsure if this is called the hinge support in the parts manual because it is only used on 1/2 tons '48-'53 but the manual lists it for all express bodies...my '53 1/2 ton has the long bed that is the same as the 3/4 tons and it has the countersunk hole center hinge

[Fiddy B2C]

JBNeal,

I use the parts manual on DPETCA, I didn’t see any parts for any of the beds.  Is it incomplete? What do you use on your truck?  I’ve seen several pics of 3/4 and 1 tons that don’t have this piece visible in their beds. Curious to see some examples of what “stock” looked like.

[Fiddy B2C]

5 hours ago, JBNeal said:

 

the parts manual I have updated 1May53 lists this as a center hinge, used on 3/4 and 1-tons, and should be mounted below the shovel strip, though I only have one applicable bed mostly intact and it appears that it is above the bed wood...I would assume that the bed wood needs to be notched out enough to accept this hinge so that the shovel strip is not too proud of the others, but I cannot find factory documentation to support this so customize as you wish...

 

the center hinge with the countersunk holes is for the B-4s...

 

 

 

I am unsure if this is called the hinge support in the parts manual because it is only used on 1/2 tons '48-'53 but the manual lists it for all express bodies...my '53 1/2 ton has the long bed that is the same as the 3/4 tons and it has the countersunk hole center hinge

 

JBNeal,

I use the parts manual on DPETCA, I didn’t see any parts for any of the beds.  Is it incomplete? What do you use on your truck?  I’ve seen several pics of 3/4 and 1 tons that don’t have this piece visible in their beds. Curious to see some examples of what “stock” looked like.

 

 

[Fiddy B2C]

So I’m thinking one of two options.  
Either cut the hinge so it supports the gate using the 2 vertical bolts only and doesn’t even go to the bed.  

Or, put the brace in place, mark the wood, cut an inset into the wood, and set the hinge in place and bolt the bed strip over the hinge and put the carriage bolt through both.

 

Any thoughts or recommendations?  I’m assuming option 2 is how it was originally designed, so I’ll probably go that route.

[minicooper]

My 52 3/4 ton still sports the original bed. The support bracket goes under the shovel strip so that it’s the same level as the other strips. The bed wood has quite a deep route for it. The tailgate on my B3C, however, has been modified with an opening for a grain slot, so the bracket offers no support.

 

 

-roland

Edited May 16, 2020 by minicooper
Poor grammar.

[ggdad1951]

6 hours ago, JBNeal said:

 

the parts manual I have updated 1May53 lists this as a center hinge, used on 3/4 and 1-tons, and should be mounted below the shovel strip, though I only have one applicable bed mostly intact and it appears that it is above the bed wood...I would assume that the bed wood needs to be notched out enough to accept this hinge so that the shovel strip is not too proud of the others, but I cannot find factory documentation to support this so customize as you wish...

 

Correct the center support is notched to bring it under the bed strip, basically it is notched with a saw blade that is dadod into the board at the end.  I'll get a picture added after I head to the shop later.  I copied exactly was was on my original bed boards.

[Fiddy B2C]

14 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

Correct the center support is notched to bring it under the bed strip, basically it is notched with a saw blade that is dadod into the board at the end.  I'll get a picture added after I head to the shop later.  I copied exactly was was on my original bed boards.

My problem was that there was not enough left of The originals to get anything but crumbled wood.  If you could possibly get me some measurements of the dado, that would help me out a bit.  Length and width I’m ok with, depth would help me though, Thanks!

Edited May 16, 2020 by Fiddy B2C

[ggdad1951]

Here ya go  looks to be 3 7/8" wide total, 2 1/2" long and 1/4" deep.  Pardon the dust!

 

 

[Los_Control]

If you have a router, you would set your bracket on the wood in position, then using a #2 or a fine pencil trace around the bracket.

Then you would take a sharp razor knife and follow the line, cutting inside the line ... will prevent splinters.

Then set the dado up in your router at the depth you want to countersink your hinge .... I am thinking same depth as the hinge so it sits flush?

Then use the router to hog out the material following the inside of the line ... you can always go bigger if needed. You cant really get the dado in the square corners.

Just get as close as you can, and then use your wood chisel to finish the corners. And any size bit would work, the smaller one on the right would get closer in the corners, & easier to control. While the bigger one on the left would be faster and remove more material.

This is how I would set hinges in a wooden house door.

 

The other option is to trim around the hinge with the razor knife, and just use your sharp wood chisel to remove the wood. Takes more effort, talent and time, still how it was done in the past.

And what you are doing exactly like setting a hinge on a door.

 

[Fiddy B2C]

1 hour ago, minicooper said:

My 52 3/4 ton still sports the original bed. The support bracket goes under the shovel strip so that it’s the same level as the other strips. The bed wood has quite a deep route for it. The tailgate on my B3C, however, has been modified with an opening for a grain slot, so the bracket offers no support.

 

 

-roland

This picture makes it look like they just put a circular saw on the boards, ran it up a few inches, enough to clear the hing and left the taper where they lifted the saw off of the boards.  I guess that would be a quick way to do it, but I thought I’d use a router and do it a bit cleaner.  Very interesting.  Great pic!  Thank you!

[Fiddy B2C]

37 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

Here ya go  looks to be 3 7/8" wide total, 2 1/2" long and 1/4" deep.  Pardon the dust!

 

 

Like I said in the last post (I didn’t see your post), it looks like they put a circular saw on it and did the dado.  It looks like you did the same thing for that “original look.” Fantastic details here I really appreciate it as I couldn’t find any details at all around this.

 

thank you

[Fiddy B2C]

38 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

If you have a router, you would set your bracket on the wood in position, then using a #2 or a fine pencil trace around the bracket.

Then you would take a sharp razor knife and follow the line, cutting inside the line ... will prevent splinters.

Then set the dado up in your router at the depth you want to countersink your hinge .... I am thinking same depth as the hinge so it sits flush?

Then use the router to hog out the material following the inside of the line ... you can always go bigger if needed. You cant really get the dado in the square corners.

Just get as close as you can, and then use your wood chisel to finish the corners. And any size bit would work, the smaller one on the right would get closer in the corners, & easier to control. While the bigger one on the left would be faster and remove more material.

This is how I would set hinges in a wooden house door.

 

The other option is to trim around the hinge with the razor knife, and just use your sharp wood chisel to remove the wood. Takes more effort, talent and time, still how it was done in the past.

And what you are doing exactly like setting a hinge on a door.

 

Absolutely, however it will need to be a bit deeper than the thickness of the hinge, as you need to compensate for the rabbits in each board so the shovel slat fits flat throughout the length.  

[Los_Control]

2 minutes ago, Fiddy B2C said:

Absolutely, however it will need to be a bit deeper than the thickness of the hinge, as you need to compensate for the rabbits in each board so the shovel slat fits flat throughout the length.

Yes sir, this will have to be your decision.

Dado imho is more of a process and not a blade.

We can buy Dado blade for a table saw or even skill saws, or a router bit and make a dado. for your situation, I just think the router gives you more control ...

I would use a table saw for dado's in a cabinet, A skill saw for dado's in framing lumber ... your job a router.

 

For a hinge I would lay the hinge on the router bed, then raise or lower the bit to thickness of hinge .... then you need to add the thickness of shovel strip ... you are on your own there to decide how much.

[JBNeal]

6 hours ago, Fiddy B2C said:

JBNeal,

I use the parts manual on DPETCA, I didn’t see any parts for any of the beds.  Is it incomplete? What do you use on your truck?  I’ve seen several pics of 3/4 and 1 tons that don’t have this piece visible in their beds. Curious to see some examples of what “stock” looked like.

 

go to 23-46 in the Body section, under Express Body there is a listing of the parts; however, there is not a picture breakdown listing the bed parts as there is for the cab interior...