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Fiddy B2C

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Everything posted by Fiddy B2C

  1. As an update. I received the u bolts from Plattsburgh Spring. Installed them and they are perfect. The right size, diameter, length and width. It took 5 minutes per side to replace both and they look like the truck came with them…minus the rust and literally 64 washers the P.O. had used to keep the original U-bolts. I was always told that you should never reuse Ubolts as once torqued, they stretch. I guess the P.O. never heard of that… Plattsburgh Spring was awesome to work with! Very helpful folks, shipping was quick and they were there with real humans to answer any questions.
  2. Hello all, I’ve been going over some minor things to fix on the old B2C, and one of the things that has been bugging me is the stack of washers the PO used to make up the gap in the U-bolts after removing the auxiliary springs on the rear of the truck. Those suckers are hard to find in the correct length. They measure 1/2” diameter 20 tpi. The inside width is 1-3/4” and my application called for 6-1/2” length. If you are looking for these u bolts, you cannot go wrong with Plattsburgh Spring Inc./UBoltsDirect.com. Very helpful folks and if they don’t have exactly what you want, call them and they’ll make them for you! They had the 6-3/4” length and I ordered some today. I’ll let you know how they come out and work when I get them in. I hope this helps someone find what they need!
  3. I have the exact same set up as you. Carter B&B dual carbs with an Offy intake. I think it is personal preference, as my linkage is to the outside of the carbs (I find it’s easier to get to and make fine adjustments), however, some folks want the pull, linkage between the carbs and block (they feel it looks cleaner). Either way is doable and functional. I have a B2C and didn’t have the pull linkage set up originally, so I used the existing linkage and went with the push.
  4. Right, I thought I’d try finding a couple first. I live in FL, so I really only use the heater as a defroster when it rains, but with the 2 side doors missing, no air gets to the windshield. I’ve got one more iron in the fire, if that doesn’t work, I’ll make some. Thanks
  5. Sorry guys, I don’t need the motor rewound, and I don’t need the heater recored. I was thinking that whoever was refinishing and re-doing the TruckMaster heaters may have extra parts for them as I am looking for the side doors of the Model 65 heater. Again, sorry, I’ll be more descriptive in my posts.
  6. If I remember correctly, there used to be someone in the forum that rebuilt heater cores and motors? Anyone know who that might be?
  7. Paint the center section of the hood black, it will add balance and tie the rear to the front?
  8. Yes, that’s it. I played around with the zerks and poked some wire in there to clean them out some, then sprayed some PB in there to help loosen up some more, then put all the zerks back on. I got all of them to accept grease…but one. The passenger side rear, both top and bottom. I sprayed it down good and will let it sit and try it again tomorrow.
  9. Merle, that was my thought too. I’ve spent the last couple hours pulling the zerks off, cleaning them (inside and out) and running grease through them. They all appear to be working now. Came in to watch Thurs night football. I’ll try re-greasing tomorrow and see if that works. Some of them were in a pretty gunked up state… So tell me, why are the pass side U bolts left hand threads?
  10. Right, Vic’s has replacements, but they want $140 for the passenger side U shackle. I guess because they are LHT. The drivers side are only $40…
  11. Got that. Which leads me back to my original 2 questions. Can the shackles be rebuilt or do i need to get new ones? And why are the passenger side U shackles left hand thread? Can RHT be used instead of the LHT?
  12. No, the zerks are standard RHT, the passenger side U shackles themselves are LHT for some unknown reason? Apparently the engineers thought that vibration?could cause them to come unscrewed, but just on the passenger side???
  13. The truck is currently raised on stands… I guess I could put it on the ground and see if that works?
  14. I lubed the truck, only I cannot get grease to flow into any of the leaf spring U shackles. Probably because they are clogged with 70+ year old grease…. Anyway, I have some questions. 1. Can these be removed and cleaned out, or do I need to replace them? 2. Why are the passenger side left hand threads? Can these be replaced with regular right hand threaded shackles? any help here is much appreciated, thanks.
  15. Vic’s has one for $28. In the write up, they say it is well made and won’t bend like their competition…I’ll give them a try…
  16. Merle, I kind of thought that was the situation, thanks for confirming. The lower ball studs are in great shape and tight as should be. In this case, I have the original pedal and the lower sockets are worn down exposing the metal, which is apparently the cause of the movement. Pedals are in abundance, which parts house is best to get a pedal from…DCM, Roberts, MoparParts, or Vic’s Garage, or Andy Bernbaum? Do you recommend anyone?
  17. I had the same problem…I ended up having to drill out the set screw, re-tapped the hole. I fixed the door and got a new set screw. Now everything works as it should… the only bad thing now is the fact that there is no friggin external key lock on the drivers side and every time you want to lock the truck, you have to slide over and exit via the passenger side…
  18. Hello all, it’s been forever since I’ve been on…life got busier…. Anyway, I’m doing some work on my ‘50 B2C and I’ve got a gas pedal that has a ton of lateral movement. The push rod that connects the pedal to the linkage has no bushing at the linkage connection. The rod just has a loop at the end that fits over the linkage and is pinned in place. Is this how it was meant to be? I feel like there should be some kind of bushing in there to take up the slack and prevent lateral movement. I guess it may be like that and the original pedal is just worn out and allowing side to side movement? Any thoughts or guidance is greatly appreciate. Thanks in advance…
  19. I know this is a fairly old post, but when I read one that I will eventually end up needing I save a keyword so I can come back to it. I however just realized that this solution won’t work on my truck as it is for the 1/2 ton trucks and I have a B2C. I don’t know what I was thinking...I guess I was just so excited to read through such an easy well thought out solution... The drums on ole Fiddy are still In pretty good shape, but I know eventually, I’ll need to figure something out...
  20. Absolutely, however it will need to be a bit deeper than the thickness of the hinge, as you need to compensate for the rabbits in each board so the shovel slat fits flat throughout the length.
  21. Like I said in the last post (I didn’t see your post), it looks like they put a circular saw on it and did the dado. It looks like you did the same thing for that “original look.” Fantastic details here I really appreciate it as I couldn’t find any details at all around this. thank you
  22. This picture makes it look like they just put a circular saw on the boards, ran it up a few inches, enough to clear the hing and left the taper where they lifted the saw off of the boards. I guess that would be a quick way to do it, but I thought I’d use a router and do it a bit cleaner. Very interesting. Great pic! Thank you!
  23. My problem was that there was not enough left of The originals to get anything but crumbled wood. If you could possibly get me some measurements of the dado, that would help me out a bit. Length and width I’m ok with, depth would help me though, Thanks!
  24. So I’m thinking one of two options. Either cut the hinge so it supports the gate using the 2 vertical bolts only and doesn’t even go to the bed. Or, put the brace in place, mark the wood, cut an inset into the wood, and set the hinge in place and bolt the bed strip over the hinge and put the carriage bolt through both. Any thoughts or recommendations? I’m assuming option 2 is how it was originally designed, so I’ll probably go that route.
  25. JBNeal, I use the parts manual on DPETCA, I didn’t see any parts for any of the beds. Is it incomplete? What do you use on your truck? I’ve seen several pics of 3/4 and 1 tons that don’t have this piece visible in their beds. Curious to see some examples of what “stock” looked like.
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