Stromberg vs. Carter

[Harvie]

I bought a 324  straight 8 engine block and it is at the machine shop now while they clean it and accumulate the parts for the rebuild. The block is from a 1949 New Yorker and I would like to put it into my 1947 New Yorker which currently has a Chrysler Industrial 8 with a Stromberg 2 barrel carburetor. I have noticed that there don't seem to be any carburetor re-build  kits for this particular carb but that there are kits available for the Carter 1 barrel carburetor which was used on the later 1947 New Yorkers and subsequent years. Does anyone know if there are kits for the Stromberg? Should I go with the Carter? Which one is the better?

[Sniper]

You don't tell use which Stromberg you have but look here

 

https://carburetion.walkerproducts.com/stromberg/

[greg g]

What type of base does the carb have and are there wires for anti stall and kickdown?

[tom'sB2B]

This may or may not help

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Stromberg_c_34.html

[Dodgeb4ya]

You need the AAVS-2 Stromberg 2 BBL with the electrical kick down and anti stall vacuum/wiring components. Using this carb also requires the exhaust manifold heat shield that mounts below the carb and follows up the head side of the carb. It reflects heat from the center portion of the exhaust manifold..protecting the large 2 BBL Stromberg carb from vapor lock.

Parts are hard to find for the 2 BBL.

If you decide on a 1BBL.Carter E7A1

Parts are easy but you will need the 2 to 1 BBL cast iron factory carb to intake adapter if you have only the 2 BBL intake. This adapter is a OE part used on late 1947 to 48 Chrysler eight 2 barrel intakes which had factory E7A1 Carter 1BBL carbs installed. 1949 thru 1950 eights used a 1BBL intake and a 1BBL carter too though different carb #'s.

Changing 2 to 1 BBL also requires different linkages and air cleaners.

I've done this before but you need to know what you're doing and have the correct change over parts.

 

 

[Harvie]

Thanks everyone. I am taking off the air cleaner to get a good look at the part number. From pictures that I have seen online it look like the number is stamped on the side of the flange.

 

Seems like there may be some carb kits available out there out there but I will meed to make sure.

 

I am guessing that the 2BBL carb produces better performance is that right? If so why did they change it to the smaller carb?

[Dodgeb4ya]

The 2 BBL added 5 hp...up to 140 hp.

Have never read as to why Chrysler went to the Carter 1 BBL carburetor.

[Harvie]

I took off the air cleaner and this is indeed an AAVS-2 Srtomberg 2BBL carburetor number 4-111A. It looks like there are several places where I can get rebuild kits  for AAVS-2 2BBL carburetor number 4-111. Is there a difference between number 4111 and 4111A?

[Dodgeb4ya]

The  Stromberg AAVS-2

 Code # 4-111A is the square air horn style...early production style 

Carb part #380165

MoPar # 1072857. 

My 46 NewYorker cpe has this carb using 4 bolts to attach the air cleaner mounting tube adapter.

 

There also is a round air horn AAVS-2 as shown..

Carb part #380169

MoPar # 1122911

Both are correct for 1947-47 chrysler eights.

The Letter "A" denotes a spec or parts change.

Edited December 29, 2019 by Dodgeb4ya

[Harvie]

Thanks Dodgeb4ya - very helpful information. The air cleaner mounting tube adapter that you speak of that bolts to the square air horn of this type of carburetor makes it very difficult to get a tight seal with the oil bath air cleaner assembly that I have on this car. Perhaps I am missing a part?

 

It seems that with a circular air horn the air cleaner assembly attaches to the air horn with a concave "c" clamp that fits around the ridge that runs along the outer circumference at the top of the air horn. The clamp is tightened onto the air horn usually with a long bolt with a circular handle at the non threaded making it easy to loosen the clamp by hand and remove the air cleaner assembly when needed. This system seems to create a pretty tight seal between the air horn and the air cleaner and most of the air sucked in by the carburetor must go through the air cleaner.

 

In the case of the square air horn and the air cleaner mounting tube adapter there is no tight seal as there is a gap because the air cleaner doesn't fit tightly around the tube and air can be easily sucked in at the bottom of the air cleaner by-passing the oil bath filter. Is there supposed to be gasket or grommet that seals the bottom of the air cleaner firmly to the top of the air horn or around the tube?

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

I'll get you some carb detail.pics tomorrow or next day.

Edited December 31, 2019 by Dodgeb4ya

[Harvie]

Thanks very much Dodgeb4ya! This is not the first time that you have greatly helped me and I really appreciate it. I couldn't find any diagrams or drawings of this tube adapter assembly anywhere.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Glad to be of some help to a brother Chrysler owner!

[James_Douglas]

I would like a photo of what they used for the dashpot (anti-stall) on this carb please?

[Dodgeb4ya]

4 hours ago, James_Douglas said:

I would like a photo of what they used for the dashpot (anti-stall) on this carb please?

.....

[James_Douglas]

Thank you...it is a mechanical dashpot not an electrical one.

 

James

[Dodgeb4ya]

That's correct.

Vacuum controlled.

[Harvie]

Just an update for the record. I bought a new in the box stromberg carb off ebay  and just had it installed by the shop that just finished installing a completely rebuilt straight 8 - it runs great!

 

But....during the rebuild process when they removed the fluid coupling unit they noticed that one of the internal bearings (through the centre) was loose and moving freely. They couldn't re-install it that way and I had a spare unit which they installed in its place. I took it for a test drive today and it is making an intermittent chirping noise. At the shop they used a stethescope to identify that the noise is coming from the fluid coupling unit - although it is impossible to isolate the unit from the engine to be positive. Car drives well and shifts etc - but the noise doesn't go away and seems to get louder as the car heats up. I see a  new fluid coupling unit in my future. 

 

Any ideas? Where can I get a fluid coupling unit rebuilt?