bkahler Posted May 30, 2021 Report Posted May 30, 2021 Looking good. I guess I better get that adapter plate done pretty soon 1 Quote
CO54 Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Posted May 30, 2021 28 minutes ago, bkahler said: Looking good. I guess I better get that adapter plate done pretty soon Gotta get MC 1st for dimensions. Will let you know kind sir. Already got the 3/16" line for everything. Quote
CO54 Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Posted May 31, 2021 Ready for install, then it starts raining.... Quote
CO54 Posted July 31, 2021 Author Report Posted July 31, 2021 Some updates, been too hot at times to really get work done on the truck. The downfall of living at 6500' and getting 300 days of clear skies and sunshine a year. Fortunately the 8x12, 4 sided awning will be delivered soon. Got the rear axle installed, still gotta get the u-bolts and spring mounts aligned properly and torqued. Started working on the cab with cleaning, prepping and a quick rattle can primer for protection. Still more to do on the cab, but progress. Got the MC adapter plate from Brad for a perfect fit. Did the test fit and it's going to be perfect. THANKS BRAD!!! I know there will be some color scheme comments, but I decided to do the firewall black at this time, because I've already got the inner fenders painted black. Things are moving though, still collecting parts for the rear axle brakes. Got shocks ordered yesterday after seeing they dropped in price on Amazon from 35 per to 24 per too. Just gotta keep pushing along, also slowly been getting parts to get the engine up and running on a test stand to make sure that's 100%. 1 Quote
CO54 Posted July 31, 2021 Author Report Posted July 31, 2021 Haha, just noticed that my grumpy old guy Shitzu Rascoe photobombed a cab pic. 1 Quote
bkahler Posted July 31, 2021 Report Posted July 31, 2021 Looking good. I'm glad the MC bracket worked out, one less thing off your list to worry about 1 Quote
CO54 Posted August 12, 2021 Author Report Posted August 12, 2021 No pics this time, been a busy Anniversary week. Took the week off, for time with the wife, time with the kids, and working on the truck. Got on horse for the first time in my life for a 2 hour ride. Had a great time and felt it the next day. Got the front rotors cleaned up, calipers installed, and all flex lines installed. Mounted the bad outta box MC I ordered "bad clip on the cover? so I can start bending brake lines. Still waiting on the rear rotors, pads, and calipers, but the hard lines can get done once the rear flex lines show up. Quote
billrigsby Posted August 13, 2021 Report Posted August 13, 2021 On 8/12/2021 at 1:24 PM, CO54 said: Got on horse for the first time in my life for a 2 hour ride. Had a great time and felt it the next day. I thought the horse was supposed to do all the work. ? 1 Quote
CO54 Posted August 14, 2021 Author Report Posted August 14, 2021 New challenge today!!! I did some practice flaring for brake lines, and decided to degrease and clean up some parts for the frame. Hit a SNAG after cleaning up the steering linkage that comes off the pitman arm of gear box to left drag link then connects to right side for steering. After cleaning, I started moving ball joints around to verify smooth operation before new grease. The ball joint with nut on it, was locked up and only has limited movement. The other side will move freely without the center mounting point moving at all. The side with nut is locked up with minimum movement from side to side, and the center shaft will spin freely regardless of location. My question, is there a service that can be done to salvage? PLEASE HELP!!!!!! I know this part is made of unobtanium! I know we have a gang of smart folks here, please help with this new development, so I can move forward with confidence. Thank You! Eric Quote
bkahler Posted August 14, 2021 Report Posted August 14, 2021 I am most definitely not a ball joint expert. I'm wondering if you could try removing the zerk so you start spraying penetrating fluid or something similar and just working the joint. Maybe there's just a bunch of dried gritty grease inside. Once you get whatever might be in there then try re-greasing to see what happens. Good luck! 1 Quote
kencombs Posted August 15, 2021 Report Posted August 15, 2021 I would take the zerk fitting out and immerse that end in ATF. Just let it soak for a few days, then try moving it. ATF is a great penetrate and cleaner. heating before immersion will help too. A heat gun is appropriate to that as you can't overheat like a torch might. 1 Quote
CO54 Posted August 15, 2021 Author Report Posted August 15, 2021 Thanks for the input! I'm going to pull the zerk fitting and soak it in carb cleaner for a few hours. See what we have then. Good chance it's some nasty grease, hopefully not a mechanical issue inside. The service manual doesn't have anything on this part at all. Quote
CO54 Posted August 15, 2021 Author Report Posted August 15, 2021 Starting new thread for steering link ball joint issue. However I got some pictures of the shocks and brake flex lines. Yes, I know I need to do some weeding in the rocks, just been too hot. 1 Quote
CO54 Posted August 21, 2021 Author Report Posted August 21, 2021 Hard lines are in to the flex lines, with the exception of rear axle lines to calipers. Ran out of fittings, gotta have something for tomorrow. Used the bad MC I got for mock up, will get the good one bench bled and installed to check for leaks at fittings. It's not perfect, but neither was the original lines. This Copper/Nickel stuff is so much easier to work with than Stainless too. Thanks. Eric 1 Quote
bkahler Posted August 21, 2021 Report Posted August 21, 2021 Looks good What does a 54 use for a brake switch, mechanical or pressure? Quote
CO54 Posted August 22, 2021 Author Report Posted August 22, 2021 (edited) I'm using a pressure switch into the MC on opposite side of the front line. Has clearance from the frame and the rear line. Edited August 22, 2021 by CO54 Add pic 2 Quote
CO54 Posted August 22, 2021 Author Report Posted August 22, 2021 Well, I cleaned out the local parts store. They had 1 fitting I needed, and wasn't in the mood to drive all over town. Got the long line on rear axle installed, and ordered a 12 pack of fittings from Amazon, we'll see about the next day shipping since I have tomorrow off. Once the last hard line is bent and installed, I'm thinking about using the bad MC that's currently installed to try bleeding and checking for leaks prior to final MC install. Yes, I know I'll have to bleed the lines twice, but would rather get any leaks addressed now, than down the road. Input on my method of madness? The bad MC has a bad spring clip for lid retention, that's what makes it bad btw. Thanks, Eric Quote
bkahler Posted August 23, 2021 Report Posted August 23, 2021 (edited) The brake lines look good. I like the adapter for the rear brake hoses to hard lines. It's always nice to see things coming back together Edited August 23, 2021 by bkahler 1 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted August 23, 2021 Report Posted August 23, 2021 No brake line to the left wheel? Quote
CO54 Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Posted August 23, 2021 1 minute ago, Merle Coggins said: No brake line to the left wheel? Ran out of 3/8 x 24 IFF fittings, more arrive today for the last line. Cleaned out the local parts store yesterday, and didn't feel like driving all over town. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted August 23, 2021 Report Posted August 23, 2021 Ahh... I read that but didn't fully understand the reference. I now also see the yellow plug where it will connect. 1 Quote
CO54 Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Posted August 23, 2021 2 hours ago, bkahler said: I like the adapter for the rear brake hoses to hard lines. I used the brake fitting/line for the Grand Cherokee axle to keep the axle vent in place. It worked out nicely being a good length and easy fit to the original location. Quote
CO54 Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Posted August 23, 2021 Parts arrived, last line is in. Happy with how it turned out. Do I need to worry about this joint on the front coming into the engine compartment? Thanks. Eric 2 Quote
CO54 Posted September 4, 2021 Author Report Posted September 4, 2021 Opened up steering gear box yesterday after getting some confidence from DrFate77, and a few others that post regularly with an abundance of knowledge. Prior to opening up, I noticed a rough spot at about 2 turns from a lock to lock of 5 turns. Soaked some parts overnight in cleaner, and sprayed the rest down with brake clean today. Found some pitting on the worm gear, but it's not rough or hanging a finger nail or micro fiber cloth. Should I be concerned??? Looking for insight. Truth be told, not wanting to have the ordeal or expense that Bkahler went through on his build with another country. Replacement seals for the housing already ordered along with the corn grease, will probably be looking for a universal O-ring for the last seal needed. Thanks. Eric Thanks again. Eric Quote
bkahler Posted September 4, 2021 Report Posted September 4, 2021 That groove in the worm is likely to be what's causing the catch in the steering. There's nothing wrong with putting everything back together and hoping it works but don't be surprised if the steering sucks. Quote
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