51 B3B build thread - after all these years

[bkahler]

That's some good information.  The length of the shank for the lower studs on the rear axle are a shade under 1-3/8" in length.  All of the other studs have a shank length of 1-1/2".  The two lower ones on the rear axle have a really thick flange or washer that takes up some of the shank length.  

 

The stock cupped washers are about 1/16" thick.  Since I don't have enough oem cupped washers to do all 8 mounting points I think what I'll do is bore out two of the washers that have 1/2" holes to 11/16" and use them on the inside of the front studs and the top rear two studs.  I'll then just use 1/16" thick flat washers on the outside of all studs.  

 

I remember when I dismantled my truck only a couple of the shocks had any washers  so I spent time in the junkyards looking for more and was never able to come up with more than a couple!  

 

Thanks for the info!

 

Brad

 

[JBNeal]

I took a closer look at The Money Pit with less fuzzy vision and should clarify the washer usage:

• The front top mount has a shoulder big enough to seat the rubber bushing, so a washer is only needed under the hex nut.
• The front lower mount needs washers on both sides of the rubber bushing. 
• The rear top mount also  needs washers on both sides of the rubber bushing.
• The rear lower mount has a shoulder big enough to seat the rubber bushing, so a washer is only needed under the hex nut.

So a total of 12 washers are needed for the 4 shocks

[bkahler]

10 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

I took a closer look at The Money Pit with less fuzzy vision and should clarify the washer usage:

• The front top mount has a shoulder big enough to seat the rubber bushing, so a washer is only needed under the hex nut.
• The front lower mount needs washers on both sides of the rubber bushing. 
• The rear top mount also  needs washers on both sides of the rubber bushing.
• The rear lower mount has a shoulder big enough to seat the rubber bushing, so a washer is only needed under the hex nut.

So a total of 12 washers are needed for the 4 shocks

 

Your assessment pretty much matches what I had been thinking about.  Your comment that the shock rubber needs to be compressed to 1.55" will work on all of the studs except the lower ones on the rear axle.  The most I'll get is 1.37" or so.  Still I think that's good enough.  

 

Thanks for the info!

 

Brad

[bkahler]

Installed the electric pusher pump and the stainless fuel line from the tank to the engine this morning.  I mounted it on rubber isolation mounts to hopefully eliminate any vibration.  However I think it will be quite some time before I find out if it helps or not!

 

Brad

 

[bkahler]

I'm getting ready to pull the 4-speed transmission so I can replace the throw-out bearing fork shaft and replace the bushings.  Is it possible to get the transmission out without removing the shifter tower?!  

Edited December 6, 2019 by bkahler

[bkahler]

In answer to my own question, yes, the transmission can be pulled far enough to the rear to allow the clutch fork to be removed without completely dropping the transmission out from under the truck.  In theory once I get the fork replaced all I have to do is slide the transmission forward again and I'm done.    Yeah right.....!

 

Anyway, yesterday afternoon I got the transmission pulled back out of the way and removed the clutch fork.  The good news is I did have the return spring attached to the throw-out bearing carrier.   The bad news is the NOS clutch fork I got from Vintage Power Wagons is the wrong one ?

 

So now I have too go through the hassle of returning the wrong fork and hope they have a correct one in stock.  

 

Brad

 

 

 

[pflaming]

Nice installation but a long way from the tank. Are you below the tank? I like your sediment bowl filter. 

[bkahler]

5 hours ago, pflaming said:

Nice installation but a long way from the tank. Are you below the tank? I like your sediment bowl filter. 

 

Actually it's right above the front of the tank, I just haven't got the tank installed yet!  At most there will be about 12" of 5/16" tubing from the tank outlet to the inlet of the filter.  The pump is in the upper third of the tank.  I realize they prefer them lower but I've not  had issues in the past mounting them in this relationship as long as the pump is close to the tank.

 

I wanted a filter that was in keeping with the flavor of the era.  The electric pump may not be correct but I have found with my other older carbureted vehicles that without an electric pump they get really hard to start from cold and when really hot they have the same issue.  The electric pumps solve that problem.

 

Brad

 

[bkahler]

Ran a few errands today such as dropping another heater core off at the radiator shop to see if it's any good and picked up the dual horn bracket that I had the shop of the road fabricate for me.  The radiator shop said this one appears to be the best looking of the three.  Sometime Monday I should know yea or nay.  I've always heard that the third time's the charm, let's hope that holds true.

 

The horn bracket is as close as they could come with their equipment to the sketch.  I think I need to do a little grinding to square things up but other than that I think it looks pretty good.  I had them make a piece long enough to make two brackets. I figure if I mess up on the first one I have a spare.  If the first one comes out ok I might be able to barter away the second one

 

I went heater housing paint shopping this morning as well.  The inside of my Model 62 looked like a nice Deep Burgundy color where the outside looked like a Chocolate brown.  I found a Burgundy in a rattle can that looked fairly close so I'm going with that.  Sometimes I tend to overthink things and I was starting to do that with the heater color.  Unless it comes out way off the mark I'm going to stick with it!

 

Brad

 

Edited December 14, 2021 by bkahler

[CO54]

Questions about your electric fuel pump:

Is it adjustable?

What PSI did you go with?

Did you do a fuel pump delete on the block?

Did you add a return line to the tank?

 

I like the idea of hiding the pusher pump back by the tank, my thought process for my project would be to remove the guts from factory pump on the block and keep the glass filter up in a visible location with a modern style filter just before the pump......

My thoughts, but impressed with what I've seen so far. 

Keep it up. 

Eric

[bkahler]

Eric, 

 

The pump is a Carter P4070 12 Volt unit.  Non adjustable but rated between 3 and 5 psi.

 

I will be using the original pump along with the Carter pusher pump.  No return line.  If the pressure or volume of fuel delivered is excessive I'll add a regulator. 

 

I opted to use a period looking filter at the pump.  There are modern paper elements available for this filter housing which will make it easier to change.

 

The stainless fuel line tubing came from Inline Tube as pre bent.  Unfortunately it was not made properly and I had to rework all of the bends.  Additionally it was about 5" to short to actually reach the tank outlet.  However I was able to bend the tubing to where it connected to the pump outlet so at least it wasn't a total waste of money. 

 

Brad

[CO54]

Brad, 

Thanks for the pump info

I know you have a '51, and I'm working with a '54, but what tank did you end up using? Original or aftermarket?

I like your plans with both pumps, however I'm curious as to why?

My plans with fuel lines and brake lines(when ready) will be copper/nickel for easy bending and longevity.  I've played with the stainless lines and really hate them. 

Thanks for sharing too. 

Eric

[bkahler]

On 12/14/2019 at 6:51 PM, CO54 said:

Brad, 

Thanks for the pump info

I know you have a '51, and I'm working with a '54, but what tank did you end up using? Original or aftermarket?

I like your plans with both pumps, however I'm curious as to why?

My plans with fuel lines and brake lines(when ready) will be copper/nickel for easy bending and longevity.  I've played with the stainless lines and really hate them. 

Thanks for sharing too. 

Eric

 

Eric,

 

I'm assuming you're asking about the mechanical pump.  I found two original AC pump on ebay that are the correct part number for my truck, I then ordered two rebuild kits from Then and Now.  

 

I don't know that I have any one specific reason for going with two pumps.  Back in the day I wouldn't have worried about it but with the fuel mixtures being provided in this day and age it seems that I experience nothing but fuel issues when using just the stock mechanical pump.  Another thought I had was since I'm running dual carburetors having a consistent fuel feed both pressure and flow would probably be a good thing.  And lastly either pump can fail and I should still have fuel delivery, albeit most likely with inconsistent pressure or flow.

 

I had a 31' motorhome with a 454 and it had the same Carter P4070 pump along with the mechanical pump on the engine.  The Carter pump failed but I still had fuel flow although at higher speeds I experienced fuel starvation.  I've heard of other motorhome owners having just the opposite problem where the mechanical pump failed but the Carter pump kept them going.  The electric pump is really good at overcoming vapor lock.

 

I wasn't thrilled that the Inline Tube fuel line was such a mess when I got it.  I was surprised just how far off the bends were.  20 years ago I bought a stainless brake set from Classic Tube and they came out really nice.  I sent them my original lines and they sent back nice shiney new ones

 

For the carburetor fuel lines and the line from the tank to the pump I will be using copper/nickel as well.  I like easy......!

 

Brad

 

Edited October 20, 2020 by bkahler

[CO54]

I completely understand your choices with the dual pump for a dual carb setup. 

I was asking what fuel tank you are using?  An original or an aftermarket?  

 

[bkahler]

10 minutes ago, CO54 said:

I completely understand your choices with the dual pump for a dual carb setup. 

I was asking what fuel tank you are using?  An original or an aftermarket?  

 

 

Oh, sorry.  I'm lucky in that my original tank was in really nice shape.  I had it cleaned and sealed inside.

 

[bkahler]

Tinkered with a bunch of small stuff that last couple of days.  In my quest to find a filter element that would sit properly in the new housings I bought a Spectre brand from Amazon.  It's 1/2" taller than the ones supplied with the air cleaners and was about 3/32" smaller in diameter which allows the top cover to sit properly on top of the filter.  I like the look of the taller filter as well so I guess it's a win win

 

The other carburetor adapter should be here Monday and another Spectre filter on Wednesday which should wrap up the air cleaner saga.  In case you're wondering I will be cutting down the stud sticking out of the top of the filter.  I bought a couple of 6" long stainless bolts knowing I'd have to adjust the height once I had the filter element sort out. 

 

Next I made a tool to press the clutch fork shaft bushings out of the bell housing and the brake pedal.  The tool worked just fine but I was a little annoyed that the bell housing bearing I bought from VPW is shorter than the original.  To me the more surface area a bushing has the better it's going to support the shaft and the less wear it will suffer.  So today I ordered a couple of brake pedal bushings from DCM Classics and I'll cut one of them down to the proper length for the bell housing.

 

Last night I finished the fabrication of the dual horn bracket.  I don't know who it was that posted a nice sketch of the horn bracket but I really do appreciate that they did so!

 

Other than finding some brass nuts for the electrical connections and cleaning the 20 years of grunge from the longer horn I'm done.  I really like how they came out

 

Brad

 

 

[bkahler]

Can anyone identify these armrests?  Back in the late 90s I removed these from two different B3 trucks.  They have the right hole spacing and I originally thought they might be original B3 style armrests.  If I remember correctly I found them in two different salvage yards in Nebraska.  

 

Regardless of what they might have come from originally I plan on using them in my truck, after refinishing of course!

 

Brad

 

[ggdad1951]

Don't look like a B3/B4 armrest.  MIGHT be B1/B2.  But I think they are car.

[bkahler]

1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

Don't look like a B3/B4 armrest.  MIGHT be B1/B2.  But I think they are car.

 

I kinda figured car as well.  I like the chrome or stainless trim.  It matches nicely with the trim strip on the model 62 heater.

 

[CO54]

Brad,

Thanks for tank info.  Mine was rusted out beyond belief, and foolishly I let the scrap metal guy take it before I got good measurements.  Now I'm having to back pedal on the fuel tank situation, but I have to get thru the holidays and kids activities first...... Parts are stacking up, but no time.....uugghh......

[bkahler]

12 hours ago, CO54 said:

Brad,

Thanks for tank info.  Mine was rusted out beyond belief, and foolishly I let the scrap metal guy take it before I got good measurements.  Now I'm having to back pedal on the fuel tank situation, but I have to get thru the holidays and kids activities first...... Parts are stacking up, but no time.....uugghh......

 

My tank is sitting on the work bench so if you need dimensions, etc let me know.

 

Enjoy the holidays, the parts will still be there waiting....!

 

Brad

 

[bkahler]

Just heard from the radiator shop.  The latest heater core is a good one! ?

 

Who knows, I just might have the heater installed before Christmas, just have to apply the color coat to the housing clean up the motor assembly.

 

Brad

 

[CO54]

Good News on the heater core! Mine didn't come from the factory with a heater, so not something I'm going to have to worry about. 

 

[ggdad1951]

4 hours ago, CO54 said:

Good News on the heater core! Mine didn't come from the factory with a heater, so not something I'm going to have to worry about. 

 

 

technically, I don't think ANY came from the FACTORY with a heater...now the DEALER on the other hand...   

[bkahler]

4 hours ago, CO54 said:

Good News on the heater core! Mine didn't come from the factory with a heater, so not something I'm going to have to worry about. 

 

 

I've got enough parts for you to assembly a Model 61 heater minus the core