Signal light ???

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, was doing some wiring in the car, actually plan to rewire 90 % of it this winter, the other 10 % is brand new.

My signals work great, but on the right side, the flashers runs quicker and the signal pilot light on the dash does not light up, on the left side they work perfectly. Any ideas on this on, I have tried a number of things, but no luck, possibly a weaker ground, a wire with a slight break or short, no idea, maybe a weak flasher. Lastnight I wired in my starter button, I have a lter model mopar ignition switsh, I just eliminated the starter wire and ran a new one from the starter button and wired it as per the schematic, wired in the auto-door, dome lamp and map lights. Also wired in the ebrake lights, these are coll,as it flashes the light under tha dash to indicate the brake is on. I even wired in my aftermarket temp gauge light, added a ground wire for it, even though it's 12 v, it lights up not bad............Fred ps I was at it until1:30 am last night, today I was under the car trying to finishe the frame and floor cleanup and paint, 70 % done, maybe by the weeken all finished

[TodFitch]

My experience with the old mechanical flasher units is that the more current being drawn the faster they flash.

If one side seems fine (and all the lights work) and the other side is fast with a light not working, then I'd be looking for a short circuit on the fast side.

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred, before wasting too much time chasing down why the right side flashes faster, try changing the dash bulb so it works. It may be working faster on the right because you are using less current with the one less bulb working. If you replace the dash bulb, it may slow the right side down to being equal with the left.

[55 Fargo]

Norm this set up has only one pilot dash bulb for the flasher,and for this car do you mean I should wire in another bulb, the other light bulb area in the dash is for the high beams, is the Chrylser different than the P 15 in this respect

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred, I thought the Chrysler had an arrow on both sides of the speedo, which would mean a bulb for each arrow. If you only have one indicator light, my other reply doesn't apply. No, don't wire in another bulb. You could have a bad or loose connection on the left side causing it to be slow. That's about the only thing left.

As for the P15, we're the poor folk who own those and they didn't come with a turn signal or a dash indicator. The P15 signals had to be installed by the dealer extra if the customer wanted one, and there was still no dash indicator light.

[builtfercomfort]

Another wild guess is that your (new?) wiring harness is expecting an indicator light on each side, but since you don't have one you hooked up only one side under the dash.

As I say, just a guess.

[Frank M.]

Fred. the early Chrysler (46 ) had two arrows for the turn Signals. Most 47s and all 48s had a small round lite on one side for BOTH left and right signal. The other one was for the hi-lo beam indication. The hi-lo beam on 46s was just above the speedo on the dash. Also some early 46s had the starter button right next to the Ign. switch and later of course to the left of the Inst. panel in the plastic dash extension. There were many other small differences between the early 46 Chryslers and all that followed. Frank M.

[55 Fargo]

Sorry, it is not a new harness, I ran new wires for the turn signal flashers from the hot wire to the flasher to the front terminal block, for the signal lights, the rest of the wire is a mish-mash of some original and new, all the lighting has newer wire, but I am still replacing it, because it is 16 or 18 gauge. The new wire is 14 gauge, except for the high beams I will use 12 gauge as per factory spec. I have used 12 gauge for the heater motor and switch and from the power source. My dome lighting, and map lighting are all new 14 gauge wire, I have used different colors, although not as per factory spec. The engine harness, and the dash harness, I will make my own out of 12 and 14 gauge wire, the horns and horn relay will be 10 gauge wire.

Over time this car was messed around with by well meaning individuals, but they paid little attention to the OEM schematics.

Interestingly enough, I wired in the fuel sending wires, to the gauge, as my tank is out. I could not get the gauge to react to moving the sending unit float. The fuel gauge has other wires on the top 2 terminals, again it was wired wrong, thses wires should be on the 3rd bottom terminal or coming from the ammeter gauge. I will correct this when I completely rewire the car this winter, I also plan on installing a fuse panel, but will still keep the factory circuit breakers in there correct places. Lots of fun, but wiring the car is my most favorite job, I find it very relaxing and it causes me to think, about the ciruitry. It is not grunt work like cleaning the undercarriage with a body on, but it looks real nice under there now....................Fred

[55 Fargo]

That is correct, mine is a 47 and part 48, the body and frame is a 48 Royal Club Coupe, the front clip is a 47 Windsor, the windows and seats are form a 48 Windsor parts car. The engine and dry clutch, 3spd standar trans, are all from a 1951 canadian built Dodge long Block 218. The rearned is from ????, it is I think 4.30, or a 4.10, it has 11 inch brakes, 8 leaf covered springs. The fron end is from a Dodge or Plymouth, the wishbones, tie rods,steering knuckles are also from a Plymouth or Dodge, it has 10 inch brakes up front. The brakes are all re-done, I would have gone back to 11 inch up front, but didn't know better at the time, more than likely they will be converte to disc, so there you have it, my car is a real Frankensteins daughter..Fred

[55 Fargo]

Here is the before pic,(would not take on a project this roughagain) , hereis what its like now, about 1/2 way finished, well maybe 1/2 to always being finished:D

[wldavis3]

Fred,

Those Chryslers have a nice "smile", don't they? Yours is coming along

fine.

[48mirage]

I had exactly the same problem on my D30. I pulled the front bulb on the "fast" side cleaned the bottom of the bulb and the contacts in the bulb fitting and it fixed the problem. I hope yours is just as easy.

Jim

[De Soto Frank]

Make sure sockets/ bulb shell / contacts are clean, and all grounds are tight and/or jumpered with a redundant ground wire to a clean, tight, connection to chassis or battery ground.

Also make sure all bulbs are same type ( whether you've got the parallel-pin 1158 or more-common staggered-pin 1154 ).

If you've still got varying wire gauges in your TS system ( smaller wiring somewhere in a given side) that could cause a difference on flash rate.

I would work from the light fixture at each "corner" back to the signal switch, checking connections, grounds, wire sizes, etc.

It'll take time; if you really want to be "scientific", you could lift the runs to each corner, and one at a time, meter the resistance or put juice on that run and meter the current-draw, looking for a run that meters significantly different...

Good luck !

De Soto Frank

[jgreg53]

I have a 48 p15. The signal flasher has 4 pins.all I can find are 2 and 3 pins. Any ideas?

[Plymouthy Adams]

post a picture or a part number, my guess is a modern electronic flasher and the 4th pin is for ground...usually these are 3 prongs with a wire and lug for the ground.

[D35 Torpedo]

Ten gauge is over kill for the horn. If anything, the high beams should be 10 and lows 12. I'm not sure what is going on with your wiring. But I assume you've checked your bulbs.....New flashers suck. I had to wire the pilot light in with both left and right signals using diodes to stop back feeding. If you're rocking an old flasher, then maybe your problem is in the signal switch. How many wires come out of it?

[jgreg53]

4 wires come out if it