Rosco Posted May 22, 2019 Report Posted May 22, 2019 Just a quick question for future consideration - at what mileage should I consider rebuilding the original, stock 218 cu. in. engine in my Canadian built 1950 Plymouth? It has 41000 miles on it right now, compression is good, it doesn’t burn any oil or make any scary noises and starts and runs very well. I put 1000 - 1500 miles on it each summer and change the oil (10W30), top up other fluids and check the antifreeze every fall before winter storage. Thanks in advance for any input. Quote
kencombs Posted May 22, 2019 Report Posted May 22, 2019 41K miles, good condition, 1k=1.5k miles per year. Unless you're really young, you may not live long enough to need a rebuild! Quote
keithb7 Posted May 22, 2019 Report Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) When is the right time to rebuild an engine? Some clues: Low oil Pressure indicating bottom end bearing wear or oil pump wear. Knocking noise from engine bottom end. Excessive blow-by. Indicating worn compression rings or scored cylinder walls. Excessive oil Consumption upon acceleration Indicating worn piston oil Rings. Or scored cylinder walls. Excessive carbon build up behind and above top compression rings can also lead to Cylinder scoring. Also leads to raw unburned fuel entering oil pan and diluting engine Oil. Another leading failure of crank bearings. Excessive oil burn, while using engine to hold back car on long hill descent. Indicating worn valve guides. So many oil leaks that you are tired of cleaning up. That’s a leading indicator too! Excessive regular high coolant temps. Block corrosion? Poor coolant flow. Or burning coolant? Could be a cracked head or bad head gasket. Coolant entering oil sump? That’ll eat bearings and kill an engine. Failure to maintain valve clearances. Leading to: burnt valves. Flat lifters. Poor valve sealing. Camshaft scoring. Valve train failure, possible broken/bent part. Symptoms include low compression. Low engine power. Hard starting. A few ideas for you.... Edited May 23, 2019 by keithb7 Quote
greg g Posted May 23, 2019 Report Posted May 23, 2019 When it stinks, smokes, rattles, knocks, can't climb hills or keep up with traffic. With minimal miles, and good care there isno reason it wouldn't double those miles without needing internal work 1 Quote
maok Posted May 23, 2019 Report Posted May 23, 2019 Just before a rod goes through the side of the block....? 1 1 Quote
Rosco Posted May 23, 2019 Author Report Posted May 23, 2019 1 hour ago, kencombs said: 41K miles, good condition, 1k=1.5k miles per year. Unless you're really young, you may not live long enough to need a rebuild! I’m 68 yrs. young, so optimistically assuming I’m good for another 15 to 20 years (my mother is 102 and still going strong), you might be right. Lol! Quote
plymouthcranbrook Posted May 23, 2019 Report Posted May 23, 2019 44 minutes ago, maok said: Just before a rod goes through the side of the block....? That was my Father's way of knowing he needed a newer Plymouth. A 1940, a 1949 and a 1954 just counting flatheads.. 1 Quote
maok Posted May 23, 2019 Report Posted May 23, 2019 (edited) 35 minutes ago, plymouthcranbrook said: That was my Father's way of knowing he needed a newer Plymouth. A 1940, a 1949 and a 1954 just counting flatheads.. So he drove them one too many times? surely he would have learnt after the first two times. Edited May 23, 2019 by maok Quote
Rosco Posted May 24, 2019 Author Report Posted May 24, 2019 On 5/22/2019 at 7:55 PM, keithb7 said: When is the right time to rebuild an engine? Some clues: Low oil Pressure indicating bottom end bearing wear or oil pump wear. Knocking noise from engine bottom end. Excessive blow-by. Indicating worn compression rings or scored cylinder walls. Excessive oil Consumption upon acceleration Indicating worn piston oil Rings. Or scored cylinder walls. Excessive carbon build up behind and above top compression rings can also lead to Cylinder scoring. Also leads to raw unburned fuel entering oil pan and diluting engine Oil. Another leading failure of crank bearings. Excessive oil burn, while using engine to hold back car on long hill descent. Indicating worn valve guides. So many oil leaks that you are tired of cleaning up. That’s a leading indicator too! Excessive regular high coolant temps. Block corrosion? Poor coolant flow. Or burning coolant? Could be a cracked head or bad head gasket. Coolant entering oil sump? That’ll eat bearings and kill an engine. Failure to maintain valve clearances. Leading to: burnt valves. Flat lifters. Poor valve sealing. Camshaft scoring. Valve train failure, possible broken/bent part. Symptoms include low compression. Low engine power. Hard starting. A few ideas for you.... Thanks, Keith. This is exactly what I needed, very helpful. I don’t have any of these symptoms yet, but now, at least I know what to look for. Quote
plymouthcranbrook Posted May 26, 2019 Report Posted May 26, 2019 (edited) On 5/22/2019 at 9:47 PM, maok said: So he drove them one too many times? surely he would have learnt after the first two times. Never believed in changing oil or filter. Waste of money he said. Also killed 2 slant sixes and a Chevy 230. He was a good shade tree mechanic. Just not into maintenance. , Edited May 26, 2019 by plymouthcranbrook Quote
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