Dustin Posted May 22, 2019 Report Posted May 22, 2019 Alright I'll be stuffing a 25in motor/trans in my Plymouth Friday. The trans that came out needs a new clutch and throw out bearing so I was trying to use the set up that I bought together to save time and money. But the new trans has a different clutch set up. Would it be possible to modify my original linkage to work the new one? Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 22, 2019 Report Posted May 22, 2019 Anything can be done if your mindset is failure is not an option. Quote
Dustin Posted May 22, 2019 Author Report Posted May 22, 2019 39 minutes ago, Don Coatney said: Anything can be done if your mindset is failure is not an option. It's not an option that motor is going in that car come hell or high water, I guess I need a little knowledge of the new clutch set up but dont want to take it apart to understand it Quote
Adam H P15 D30 Posted May 22, 2019 Report Posted May 22, 2019 Can you use your old bell, clutch set up and flywheel? Just compare the crank flange protrusion from the back of the block with your old engine. Don C knows this scenario well.... Quote
Dustin Posted May 22, 2019 Author Report Posted May 22, 2019 17 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said: Can you use your old bell, clutch set up and flywheel? Just compare the crank flange protrusion from the back of the block with your old engine. Don C knows this scenario well.... The bell housings are the same length but the one I took out needs a clutch plate and throw out bearing that's why I want to use the new one just dont know the mechanics of the new clutch set up and I'm trying not to take it apart to figure it out. Quote
DJ194950 Posted May 22, 2019 Report Posted May 22, 2019 Man that change is a lot of work-possibly. Call Tennessee clutch and brake for a price quote for their rebuilding services. If you find it to be as cheap as I did, you may want to reconsider and use the original parts? I had them rebuild a clutch pressure plate, reline the clutch plate and supply a new throw out bearing and a plastic clutch alignment tool and ship it back. Forgot shortly later they also relined 2 emergency brake bands for me, again quite reasonable. They had to have done the rebuild work they same day they received the parts and shipped it also because it was only 3 days after they received my parts that I got them back!! Oh, I live in Ca. The price was unbelievable to me, and work was first class! That was about 7 years ago so that is why I said to give them a call. I also believe I told them I was on this forum and would post my results on the forum. Did it help? Can't say but they also sent a free t-shirt of theirs, so maybe? ? DJ 1 Quote
Dustin Posted May 22, 2019 Author Report Posted May 22, 2019 5 minutes ago, Don Coatney said: I found a few different places that offer clutches throw out bearings and pressure plates for around $150. But I was hoping to just use the trans that's already together but I'm unfamiliar with this linkage Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 22, 2019 Report Posted May 22, 2019 I am also unfamiliar with this linkage so I cannot offer any assistance. Quote
Dustin Posted May 22, 2019 Author Report Posted May 22, 2019 I may have to just eat it and spend the money Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 22, 2019 Report Posted May 22, 2019 10 minutes ago, Dustin said: I may have to just eat it and spend the money Your choice, your tape measure. Quote
Dustin Posted May 23, 2019 Author Report Posted May 23, 2019 After getting home and tinkering with it I think I will just have to fabricate about a 4 or 5" linkage to go from existing to the new clutch fork lever. I will do my best not to make any irreversible mods to anything on the car itself. And after pulling some roundabout measurements I think I'll be able to get by with minimal modifications to the oil pan. Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 23, 2019 Report Posted May 23, 2019 This is what I had to do to my oil pan. Quote
Dustin Posted May 23, 2019 Author Report Posted May 23, 2019 I thought I was going to have to move my sump mid engine but I think I'll be able to get by just trimming a little fat. Quote
kencombs Posted May 23, 2019 Report Posted May 23, 2019 10 hours ago, Dustin said: After getting home and tinkering with it I think I will just have to fabricate about a 4 or 5" linkage to go from existing to the new clutch fork lever. I will do my best not to make any irreversible mods to anything on the car itself. And after pulling some roundabout measurements I think I'll be able to get by with minimal modifications to the oil pan. Might it not be easier to use the housing that fits the chassis by swapping the good clutch parts? Really simple to unbolt the trans and other parts to swap. that is assuming they interchange. Not knowing the source of the 25, I can't look that up but it certainly possible. Quote
Dustin Posted May 23, 2019 Author Report Posted May 23, 2019 I pulled measurements and they're the same as the old one just looks different and I figured out last night that the clutch fork is vertical as the original was horizontal that's what I was trying to figure out why the linkages were different. Quote
59bisquik Posted May 23, 2019 Report Posted May 23, 2019 That appears to be a 54+ truck bell housing and linkage. Looks the same as my setup. I would swap the bell housings so you can run your factory setup. I dont know how hard it would be to modify the linkages. Its very possible that the clutch and pressure plate bolt right over. Take it apart and look. Quote
Dustin Posted May 23, 2019 Author Report Posted May 23, 2019 8 minutes ago, 59bisquik said: That appears to be a 54+ truck bell housing and linkage. Looks the same as my setup. I would swap the bell housings so you can run your factory setup. I dont know how hard it would be to modify the linkages. Its very possible that the clutch and pressure plate bolt right over. Take it apart and I am really tryin to not take it apart but that decision will be made this evening or tomorrow morning. I will dry fit to see exactly what needs to be modified. Quote
59bisquik Posted May 24, 2019 Report Posted May 24, 2019 The tranny is 4 bolts to remove. Then try the bell housing bolts and see if it will come off the dowels and lift up. It MIGHT come off without taking the clutch apart. Then swap the car bell housing onto it and bolt the tranny back up. No need to modify the linkages if you dont have to. Quote
Dustin Posted May 24, 2019 Author Report Posted May 24, 2019 Well shes in there. I have to check the travel on the steering rods as is sits I have about 2.5 inches clearance. No the rad on the other hand has a lot less room than I anticipated. Quote
Dustin Posted May 24, 2019 Author Report Posted May 24, 2019 13 hours ago, 59bisquik said: I wound up having to pull her back out. On the black bell housing the reinforcement on the top prevented me from going back about 3/8 and was wider by 1/4. But I did what you said and the old bell housing fit I'm hopeful that the throw out bearing holds up Quote
59bisquik Posted May 24, 2019 Report Posted May 24, 2019 The only thing to check is the throw out bearing. There are two different sizes for the inside dimension. I had the large truck bearing and the smaller car input shaft collar and it tore up the bearing. You can just reach up inside and see how much play there is. There is about a 1/2" of difference between the two, so its easy to see if you have the right one or not. Second, if you do need a new one, now would be the time to replace it. Rock Auto has them for a good price. Here is what I did to adapt my larger to smaller setup... nice oilite bushing. Quote
Dustin Posted May 24, 2019 Author Report Posted May 24, 2019 Since the clutch set up does fit in the old bell I'll be using the old trans but the rear seal was leaking so I took it to a local trans shop. Hes going to change front and rear seal for what seems like a good price. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 25, 2019 Report Posted May 25, 2019 No front trans seal... only a rear seal. Quote
falconvan Posted February 24, 2020 Report Posted February 24, 2020 Looks like the truck bellhousing. I converted mine to hydraulic. Quote
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