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Posted (edited)

Dear Gentlemen, fellows

My Dodge WC 3/4 ton from 43 is equipped with an original Flat 6 with 230 cubic inch, Type T-214.

93 SAE at 3200 Rpm, 6,7:1 compression, Carburetor Zenith, 6 Volt equipment.

Normal valve adjustment following the technical manual from us army: inlet and outlet 0,010 inch go and 0,012 inch nogo in hot conditions.

Original text: "Run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal temperature. Hold the tappet with wrench and adjust the screw until a 0,010 inch feeler gage will not (I think this "not" is a typo in the original manual) go between the adjusting screw and valve stem, but a 0,012 ich feeler gage will not go between the adjsuting screw and valve stem on both intake and exhaust valves"

 

On the weekend I adjusted my engine valves as described in the TM and the Technical Tips (very useful, many thanks!) in this forum

  • I pre-adjusted in cold with still standing engine Inlet: 0,012 and outlet: 0,014
  • I started the engine, heating it up in idle to 160 degrees water temp
  • I re-adjusted the valves again to inlet and outlet both to 0,01 inch in hot and running condition (I was only able to do it on cylinders 1,2,3 while running the engine, the others I did just after stopping the engine. Accessability was absolutely catastrophic and I got the same skin troubles as many of you....)
  • I realized that I had to reduce the gap a lot on both valve types, inlet and outlet to get to 0,01 in hot condition
  • Then I stopped working on the engine and let it cool down through 8 hours until I could feel no heat any more
  • Then I measured the valve gap again on all valves in that cold condition, Result was 0,01 on inlet and 0,012 on outlet (so only the outlet showed more gap after cooling down)
  • Then, maintening this adjustment, I gave all outlet valves a little bit of more gap so that the feeler gage passed easily without any bigger resistance with 0,12 (outlet only), 0,14 wouldnt pass. I kept the Inlet valves as adjusted in hot conditions.

 

I would like to get your opinions on the following, because I dont have a lot of experience with that engine:

  • I observed that between cold and hot condition inlet valves shows nearly 0 gap difference, meanwhile the outlet shows 0,005 difference. Does anybody of you experienced the same?
  • adjusting the valves in running and hot conditions is something for the heroes, after several wounds I decided not to be one of them. In addition, I noticed that for me! a precise adjustment with running and hot engine is not really possible because you cant feel the resistance of the gage while passing the gap. So my conclusion is, having the previous measurement as listet above in mind, that a cold adjustment with inlet 0,01 and outlet 0,012 should exactly meet the requirements of the TM in hot conditions.

What do you think? And please forgive me my German English...

Thanks in advance and best regards

Edited by Spencer1
Posted

Actually, I did FEF cold and it worked out just fine.  I have one little "tick" on ONE valve.

Posted
3 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

Actually, I did FEF cold and it worked out just fine.  I have one little "tick" on ONE valve.

What clearance spec did you use?  hot or add a little?

Posted

we did the cold settings and that landed us pretty good.

Posted
7 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

we did the cold settings and that landed us pretty good.

What gap did you use?    All my manuals only list the hot gap.

Posted

oh jeeze....that's 7 or 8 years ago now....I think I'll see my buddy tonight that helped and see if he remembers.

Posted
12 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

oh jeeze....that's 7 or 8 years ago now....I think I'll see my buddy tonight that helped and see if he remembers.

Lol my memory is we did them warm... Unless they got done a second time

Posted
11 hours ago, Young Ed said:

Lol my memory is we did them warm... Unless they got done a second time

talked to Ben last night, initial was set cold a few thou looser, then yes, we did it warm...

 

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