engine swap

[Old Flathead]

rhelm1953,,  

 

I'm the new owner of a 50 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2dr,,, I'll save your suggestions and work on the upgrades this winter!  I'll bug you for more detail then ?

 

[dndrodshop]

You can put anything in anything. I've been running a 440 RB block in my P15 sedan since 1989.  I did move the firewall back a little, upgrade the brakes, change to a rack and pinion, and an 8-3/4 rear end.  But I still have stock A-arm suspension.. 

[Andydodge]

Ed...........nice looking 48 Sedan........the Delivery you have listed has me intrigued.........any more pics of your sedan & S/Delivery?...........regards, andyd 

[dndrodshop]

Sedan Delivery project - 5.2 EFI Mopar motor, 5 speed manual, air ride suspension , Dakota front clip, 4-bar rear suspension

[Dryerventwizard]

Can a 1940 dodge be converted everything to 12 v keeping the flathead 6

[Sniper]

21 hours ago, Dryerventwizard said:

Can a 1940 dodge be converted everything to 12 v keeping the flathead 6

 

yes, did that this past fall with my 51 Plymouth. 

 

Here's the link to the alternator swap I did, some say there is a 12v generator that fits as well, but I don't care for generators.  Alternator is from an 87 Dodge Diplomat, 78A unit.  I used the same regulator and wired it up like it is in the Diplomat.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/12-volt-conversion

 

Of course all the bulbs will need to be changed to 12V units, I went with GE NightHawk LED headlights and took whatever I could not cross online to NAPA and asked for a 12v version of the bulb and they set me up..

 

Link to the rewire job I did, shows the headlights.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/rewire-it

 

You will also need to replace the coil with a 12V one and run a ballast resistor to control the current through the points.  Standard 12V Mopar coil and ballast used.  You can see the voltage regulator and the ballast in the rewire link.  I replaced my starter solenoid with a Ford 12v one that also has a S terminal, this will supply 12V in start mode which you will wire in to bypass the ballast in start feeding the coil full battery coltage, this helps compensate for the voltage drop caused by the starter drawing large amounts of current.

 

I did not keep my stock gauges, I went with Autometer gauges but only the fuel gauge and ammeter are electrical and the ammeter doesn't care, not sure how your fuel gauge would work.  You could use a 6v dropping resistor, I never tried that so I have no info on them.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/gauge-upgrade

 

Kept the stock 6v starter, works fine on 12v. 

 

Any question, ask away.  Someone will know.

 

 

 

 

[Andydodge]

Whilst my 1940 Dodge does have a V8 the dash with the stock gauges is original and  the car converted to 12volts..........the temp gauge is mechanical as is the oil pressure gauge and just adapt to the engine, the Amp gauge reads Amps not volts so works fine and the Fuel gauge has a voltage resister wired into its power circuit and is generally sort of accurate......I rewired the car 40 yrs ago the V8's lived in it since 1973 and the gauges still work.........except the speedo has issues, sometimes working, sometimes not, tho the trip meter part still winds over fine.........I still use the original headlight switch as well.................andyd 

Edited June 4, 2020 by Andydodge
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[Bobb Horn]

On ‎6‎/‎2‎/‎2020 at 11:10 PM, Dryerventwizard said:

Can a 1940 dodge be converted everything to 12 v keeping the flathead 6

 

On my 38, I went with 12 volts.    Generator, distributor, and starter 12 volt from a 1956 Dodge.     Used a ceramic type 12 to 6 volt reducer for the heater and fuel gauge.    Other stock gauges are mechanical.    Battery in the trunk. 

[Andydodge]

Bobb..........same here.........junk in the trunk..........battery in that box which is vent out under the rear fender, spare wheel with nuts to suit and tools in the neat carry box................must do something about the cheap & nasty plastic water bottles...........lol..............andyd 

[John h edge]

My wagon still running strong after 6 years.  Love the looks on people’s faces when I open the hood 

[Andydodge]

John......your cars engine bay works for me.............nice, clean, tidy and Mopar.........andyd

[James_Douglas]

On 10/14/2018 at 5:52 PM, dndrodshop said:

You can put anything in anything. I've been running a 440 RB block in my P15 sedan since 1989.  I did move the firewall back a little, upgrade the brakes, change to a rack and pinion, and an 8-3/4 rear end.  But I still have stock A-arm suspension.. 

Ed, How about some photos of the Rack & Pinion you used. I would like to see how it is mounted and show the tie rod angles came out. Any evidence of bump steer if you "cheated" at all on the angles and lengths?

 

James.

[John h edge]

10 hours ago, Andydodge said:

John......your cars engine bay works for me.............nice, clean, tidy and Mopar.........andyd

Thanks not a lot of way to dress a Flathead 6 but a lot of people are seeing that kind of Engine for the first time 

[Dryerventwizard]

Thank you very much for all the info. I have 2 1940 dodge sedans 1 is all origenal. I put 12volt battery with solenoid so everything  is 6 volt except to the starter is 12 bolt kept original starter and I am changing distributor to electric I stead of point.

[Dryerventwizard]

The other 1940 dodge I have I am changing to hot rod v8 with everything 12 volt

[Dryerventwizard]

Where did you get the 12v wiring kit from.

[Dryerventwizard]

I dont need to worry about most of that because  I am taking everything  out and putting 318 or 340 v8 and transmission and put 12volt 

[Dryerventwizard]

Did you have to cut any of the body to fit the 318 engi engine in and what rear end did you use and what did you have to change on the rear end or did it bolt right in

[Andydodge]

Dryer..........the only cut I made to the body was a 2"x 4" boxed in section at the bottom of the firewall, in the pic its just behind the distributor.......but I mounted the engine quite low in the chassis so thats why no other part was cut...........I would suggest you follow my posts on this thread from the 1st as I don't recommend using a 318 poly as I did due to its width, a 273-360 on the other hand is narrower and would be a better option.........as for a rear axle I have had 2 rear axles in the car......the 1st was the one from the 1962 Oz Chrysler Royal(say 57 US Plymouth) with valiant front vented discs adapted to the Plymouth rear end.....that lasted from 1973 to 2005 when I replaced it with the complete disc to disc rear axle from an Oz 1991 Ford Falcon Wagon which bolted straight in.........I assume you are in the USA.........you should be able to find something that will work over there, ie from a rear drive mopar of some sort..........basically anything can be made to fit, it just depends on how badly you want it to and your skills and fabrication abilities.........I taught myself and did  a few things a few times..........lol..........but its been a hot rod since 1973 so its all good...........Andy Douglas

[Dryerventwizard]

I want  a 318 in mine I was told a dodge dakota rear end would work. So I am looking in to that option as they cost about 2 4 hundred over hear. I am looking for a 318 right now from eighties or nineties. 

 

 

 

 

 

[classiccarjack]

On 10/14/2018 at 5:52 PM, dndrodshop said:

You can put anything in anything. I've been running a 440 RB block in my P15 sedan since 1989.  I did move the firewall back a little, upgrade the brakes, change to a rack and pinion, and an 8-3/4 rear end.  But I still have stock A-arm suspension.. 

Great call on keeping the original front suspension.   They work very well.  I bet with your 440, that car really moves.

[classiccarjack]

On 10/6/2018 at 11:48 AM, jgreg53 said:

would a v8 motor fit in my 48 p15 sedan with stock frame, or is a subframe swap the only way?

 

Since you started this topic, I would like to follow up with you....  How are things going with your car?

[jgreg53]

Well, my original motor is still chugging along. Looks like it's never gonna die.(knocks on wood)

[YukonJack]

On 6/5/2020 at 2:24 AM, Andydodge said:

Bobb..........same here.........junk in the trunk..........battery in that box which is vent out under the rear fender, spare wheel with nuts to suit and tools in the neat carry box................must do something about the cheap & nasty plastic water bottles...........lol..............andyd 

Andy, Is that the original location for your spare tire?

[Andydodge]

38 minutes ago, YukonJack said:

Andy, Is that the original location for your spare tire?

Jack..yep, thats the original location of the spare tyre, theres enough space with a 2-3" indent on the bottom side of that tyre or floor hump to fit the standard 6.00/6.50 x 16 crossply tyre so the spare as shown which is a 195/65x14 fits nicely.......the nuts are there as the mag wheel nuts won't fit the steel spare, its as mentioned a 14" diameter which is the same size as the front  mag wheels..the rear wheels, 10x15" use 275/65x15 tyres and there is a can of Finileak for the rears......hopefully not needed.......as far as I am aware all Oz assembled mopars, 1939-48 which use this same basic body shell use the same spare location, its easy to tell an Oz 1939 to 1948 built car by looking for external front & rear door hinges and that distinctive trunk lid shape........................andyd  

Edited June 22, 2020 by Andydodge
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