Newbie Here - 1948 Dump Truck

[Goddom]

Hello Everyone,

I am new to classic cars, and to carburetors! The truck is in pretty good shape and had been run off-road on private property since - I am estimating 2003 since that is the last time it was registered. The guy i bought it from owned it for about 7 years and never registered it. He used it to make and maintain a gravel driveway on his property. I plan to do similar with it as well as move manure, wood chips, and more. The plan is not to abuse it to much, but to help me out. 

 

There is something wrong with the brakes. They work, but its definitely a strong leg. The PO said the guy he bought it from had disconnected the front brakes. After some exploration, I think the brake booster was disconnected but I don't know why. Perhaps there is a leak in the booster itself? There are definitely leaks in the line because some rubber couplers are not connected. So I will play with that. I assume that is what this hard line (circled in red in the photos) is for and it was disconnected from the intake. 

 

Two other questions - the door windows are broken. How easy or hard are they to replace?  I am looking for a side mirror for the passenger side that matches the driver side. Any idea where I might find one?

 

 

 

[Jomani]

Nice looking truck. It is great to see these things still being used for what they were designed for. 

 

I have a set of mirrors that are very similar - I don’t plan to use them. Take a look at the pics below.

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Your right rear drum is throwing oil/ brake fluid. The brake booster shown is not the original booster either.

That steel line could go to a 2 speed rear axle (vacuum Shift) or to the brake booster.

For your peace of mind I'd be doing a complete brake job!

[Brent B3B]

Welcome Goddom, looks like a fun truck. that window glass isn't toooo bad.... I think mine cost around $65. To have cut 

http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/B4_manual/B4_body.pdf

Also, if you don't have a shop manual yet, it might be worth getting one. ?

 

 

 

[Goddom]

@Dodgeb4ya - The seller said the axle seal leaked and it was repaired. However, I agree, I should do a full brake check. It looks like the rubber line in the rear needs to be replaced. It looks like the hard line goes to an "air" tank (maybe vacuum reservoir) and then to the brake booster.  A couple rubber couplers are disconnected... I will have to start there I guess and see what happens. 

 

@Jomani - I will keep those in mind. I really don't want to put new holes in the door to fit up different side mirrors. Thank you though!

 

@Brent B3B - Just got one yesterday! I ordered it last week and it just showed up. Thanks for the link, I was reading through that and I don't quite understand when it says in step 4 "removed the stop screws in the glass lower channel" I guess I will have to dig around in the doors a bit and see what I can find. Thank you!

[Dodgeb4ya]

I had a B-1-JA  2 tonner I drove for 10 years hauling everything you could imagine and loved the brakes on it. Super booster assist too.

The medium duty dodge trucks have very good brakes with the brake booster when operating correctly.

There are a few threads on this.

Shown are the B-1 series shop manual and parts books...at minimum a shop manual is a must for the serious owner. 

Good luck on your new purchase!

 

[Brent B3B]

Rob, is he missing a "manifold" to connect that line to?

i think mine is "aftermarket"

but It seems like his is missing.... 

don't mean to confuse anyone if I am way off 

 

Edited October 3, 2018 by Brent B3B

[Goddom]

Hey thanks! That picture helps! It esplains why my hard line is bent the way it is.  I do have a port in the intake that is plugged. It looks like yours has a "T" connector that also goes to a rubber hose. What does that hose go to?

Edited October 4, 2018 by Goddom

[Goddom]

ON a side note I am thinking of keeping a video log so I started one on Youtube if you want a more complete tour of the truck.

 

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

What is the belt driven pump on the left side of the engine? Looks like a power steering pump, but it wouldn’t have that unless someone did a conversion. 

The side windows aren’t too bad to remove. There is a good description in the shop manuals. You may be able to download that section from the DEPTCA site. I would suggest finding a printed copy for future reference. You will use it a lot. 

You’ll probably need new windshield glass in the future too. It isn’t likely you’ll be able to clear up the frosted areas around the outside. It may be delaminating at the edges. 

[Brent B3B]

53 minutes ago, Goddom said:

Hey thanks! That picture helps! It esplains why my hard line is bent the way it is.  I do have a port in the intake that is plugged. It looks like yours has a "T" connector that also goes to a rubber hose. What does that hose go to?

 

yeah ignore that part,  that larger hose runs to the two speed axle (high / low) actuator put on by a fire department........  

[Dodgeb4ya]

11 hours ago, Brent B3B said:

Rob, is he missing a "manifold" to connect that line to?

i think mine is "aftermarket"

but It seems like his is missing.... 

don't mean to confuse anyone if I am way off 

 

Yes Brent..

He is missing the brass manifold vacuum pipe adapter fitting...I don't know if his truck has a 2 speed rear axle too. Because the both 1/2" steel vacuum lines hook to it..

A couple lousy pictures of all this covered in hard caked grease from Eastern Oregon!

Edited October 4, 2018 by Dodgeb4ya
Add a pic

[Goddom]

@Merle Coggins - Yes, it has a power steering pump on the left side. I suspected it was an add-on since the bracket looked to be home made. I did get a service book, so I will have to dig into the windows soon. Thanks!

 

I don't believe I have a 2 speed rear end. I will take a look tonight and see what I see. 

 

Thanks for the information guys!

[Goddom]

Took if for the first "High Speed" test run... 30mph. Boy, it was scary!  Since I made the video I think I figured out the issue. Single rear tires and they had less than 20psi in them made them wobbly. Doesn't seem to be an issue now that I put the duallies on and aired them up. Though I have to admit, they are pretty badly cracked so I didn't air them up all the way... I didn't want to die today. New tires are on the docket!

 

Another note - spent about 20min troubleshooting a no start issue. It cranked but wouldn't start. I figured I must have flooded it so let it sit a while. An hour later that didn't help. Took the air filter off to let it air out... no go. Hmmmm what could it be.... So I sat in the driver seat thinking about it for a minute or two... notice the key.  Oh yeah!  I should probably turn the ignition on, I think that will help.  Yeppers. Fired right up... 

 

 

Edited October 7, 2018 by Goddom
Correcting spelling mistakes :-)

[Goddom]

So more things!

 

I installed the duallies and loaded the truck up with gravel and moved my first load on the property. Truck did great. Also, ran the truck with duallies and the higher pressure and it was SOOOOOOOOOOOOO much better. I guess low tire pressure is bad. Here is another entry in the video blog :-)

 

 

[Prusakowski]

Goddom....comparatively speaking, there are not a lot of 1.5 ton and up owners on this forum.....but heap of knowledge from some great guys.  Brent B3B is a trusted / fellow "big" truck owner and has assisted me in getting my 1.5 ton brakes fixed.  For the master cylinder...I would suggest using the Toyota option as the bolt pattern is identical to the old factory master cylinder.  Since my truck was going to be used for farm use, I completed eliminated the factory option brake booster and I'm glad I did.  (Gasp!)   My truck stops on a dime without it thanks to the new and improved Toyota master cylinder. 

 

 

[Goddom]

That is cool. I might have to look into that. I am not sure I am going to try and do a disc brake conversion but you think this will work well with drums too? I don't plan on cruising around much with the truck. The gravel yard is close by and I may run a few other places but nothing far.

[FlashBuddy]

I too was curious how acurate the temp gauge was, so I bought this to assuage my fears:

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539007223&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=temperature+gun&psc=1

 

I have read here where others did buy aftermarket sensor and guage. That too looks like an inexpensive and simple install for peace of mind. 

 

My radiator cooling fins are partually occluded with petrified bees, flies etc. and I'm hoping when I clean those out I'll be able to get the temp down five degrees to stave off a complete flush; water distribution tube and all.

 

Your video was a hoot to watch, thanks for making that effort ?

[Goddom]

1 hour ago, FlashBuddy said:

I too was curious how acurate the temp gauge was, so I bought this to assuage my fears:

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539007223&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=temperature+gun&psc=1

 

I have read here where others did buy aftermarket sensor and guage. That too looks like an inexpensive and simple install for peace of mind. 

 

My radiator cooling fins are partually occluded with petrified bees, flies etc. and I'm hoping when I clean those out I'll be able to get the temp down five degrees to stave off a complete flush; water distribution tube and all.

 

Your video was a hoot to watch, thanks for making that effort ?

 

I am glad you like the video ?

 

I was thinking if I got a gauge I wouldn't permanently mount it - maybe suction cup or something then if things look OK I can take it out. When you checked temps with the infrared thermometer, were you checking the radiator and block? I thought about doing that but I wasn't sure how accurate it would be - mostly because I wasn't sure where a good spot to check would be. 

[Merle Coggins]

Temp gun aimed at a spot on the head, right by the temp gauge bulb, would be a good place to start. Then work your way down the head towards the thermostat to see if there is a significant change. You can also shoot (aim at) the block along where you see the core plugs. It'll give you a pretty good representation of what's happening inside. You can also shoot the thermostat housing, the top radiator tank, and if accessible the bottom radiator tank, or lower hose outlet. Too much temperature drop from top to bottom of the radiator would indicate internal blockage in the radiator core. 10-15 degrees drop is normal. 

[Goddom]

Hey Merle, where is the temp gauge bulb?  I was trying to find that in the manual.

[tom'sB2B]

You will find the temp gauge bulb on the back edge of the head. Be very careful trying to remove. You do not want to damage the tubing. You can buy a cheap temp gauge at any auto parts store for around $20 to check the accuracy of the original gauge.

[Goddom]

Thank you!

[Goddom]

So there is no line to the temp gauge on the dash... so obviously the dash gauge isn't accurate. Make sense - it was showing like 100° which didn't seem right. I was worried about over heating because I drove the truck a bit and it got really hot in the cab. I added about a gallon of coolant and then filled it up with wood and drove it to the dump about 7 miles away. Used the suggestion above to check engine temps with a infrared thermometer and everything seemed to be pretty cool. The max temp I recorded was about 165° near the rear of the engine. The radiator was running at a cool 115°. 

 

 

I didn't feel comfortable going over about 30mph (if the speed is accurate). The steering was decent but not super tight and the bumpy road with the load felt a little wobbly. I will have to check the tire pressures again and see if that may be a factor. 

 

I also found out the truck weighs in "empty" (there was some gravel left over in the box, so that may be as much as 500lbs) at 9,140lbs.  

 

My current project is to get a canvas shed erected so I can park the truck out of the weather - thats partly why I was dumping the wood. It was piled up right where I want to part the truck. Then I will probably tackle the windows and brakes. I need to bleed the brakes and replace the rear brake line - just to be safe. See how that helps with the pedal feel - right now its still pretty stiff and I have to pump them a bit. 

 

 

 

[Radarsonwheels]

Cool truck!

 

The steering looked familiar on your ‘speed run’. Mine held a turn great but going straight I would have to deal with a huge amount of play before I could ‘find the edge’ of either side to make steering corrections.

 

It looks like she is close to being what you need in a working truck. Do you have a plan of how it will come out when you’re done? Or are you letting the truck tell you what it needs and just fixing issues as you find them?