Lowering Your Truck By Removing Leafs

['36 Glasstruck]

 

Hi all, I thought I would post this as a separate topic from my truck thread.  I've heard of doing this and read of folks saying they've done it, but have not found an actual thread outlining how to do it.

 

One of the original plans with my truck was to lower the front (if possible) to give it a kind of a hot rod raked stance.  I wasn't sure if I was actually going to do it, but since I have the axle off to do the king pins and freshen up the steering components, I thought this would be as good a time as ever to explore the topic.  I was thinking of lowering it between 2" and 4" depending on what changes or sacrifices have to be made. 

 

To the folks that have actually done this or have experience with it.  Is it worth it? Will it accomplish what I want or just make it ride like crap?  And if removing leafs to make the truck sit lower is a viable option, which leafs would you/should I remove?  There are 7 total, which IMO, seems like plenty for a truck like this. 

 

Also, as a side note: changing the axle to a dropped aftermarket or adding non-original/ford spindles, machining mods, etc is not an option.  I'll just not lower it if I can't do it this way.  If there are other Dodge spindles that would work on my '36 and make it sit lower, I would take a look at that option, however.  Experienced input is very much appreciated.  Thanks

Edited September 12, 2018 by '36 Glasstruck

[pflaming]

I removed one leaf on each rack. I DA sanded each remaining the coated them with silicone before reassembling. It lowered the  truck 2" front and rear. The center of gravity changed so it does not drive top heavy. With radial, 15" rims, i think it looks much better. Nothing was impacted.  I have smaller tires up front for a nearly unperceptable rake. 

 

Be be prepared for a lot of work.

['36 Glasstruck]

Your truck looks good. One leaf got you 2"?  Not bad.  Which leaf did you remove?  Just right off the bottom?  It doesn't seem like too much trouble really.  Is the silicone so they do not squeak when put back together?  I"m going for noticable rake.  I will probably leave the rear alone.  Or maybe 2" rear 4" front?  Hmmm. 

Edited September 12, 2018 by '36 Glasstruck

[pflaming]

I removed the 2nd from the bottom. Silicone for leaf movement. In my opinion, a stiff high rear would not ride very good and might be very hard on your back. Remember this is a truck and that bed does not weigh very much. If I were going for a rake, I think I would consider smaller rims and tires up front. This pic has smaller front tires. 

[FlashBuddy]

Ha! I tried to follow in Paul's footsteps but ended up defeated. I discovered the entire leaf pack would have to be removed to get the centering  bolt pushed through. The thought of struggling with the bushings in the fore and aft hangers scared me off. Having read so many threads where folks get stuck at those points I thought better of it.

 

That nut at the top is not coming off unless I take a cutoff disc to it. I found no way to push that drift up and out from the bottom. When I started I had no idea of how they were put together. I thought I could just remove the u bolts and slide one out ?

 

If I can get access to a press, I may revisit this idea. BTW I've heard one can get and insert teflon strips between the leaf's too.

[Plymouthy Adams]

that item is called the leaf spring centering pin and can be found in various lengths to suit you needs all day long at most of the outlets associated with racing, Jegs, Summit etc.  and E-bay for a better look at availability.   If lowering is a particular look you really want...cutting and replacing this pin when removing a leaf is a small price to pay to achieve that look....better yet if you don't like the end result, just put it back on....non invasive all around.

[pflaming]

I cut off all of mine. Once apart, I numbered them to keep them to together. Your springs show much more rust than mine did. Sure brings back memories.  The teflon strips are only on the end of the leafs, if I remember right. A huge task. My best to you. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

I cut off all of mine. Once apart, I numbered them to keep them to together. Your springs show much more rust than mine did. Sure brings back memories.  The teflon strips are only on the end of the leafs, if I remember right. A huge task. My best to you. 

 

 

 

NUMBERED...what part of progressive lengths tripped you up....

Edited September 12, 2018 by Plymouthy Adams

['36 Glasstruck]

Is it best to take from the bottom or remove from the middle or every other one etc? The shorter are probably stiffer but the longer are stronger? 

Will pulling from the middle and keeping a couple of the shorter ones make for more of a stiff ride rather than pulling, say, the three shortest ones? I have a lot of questions about it. I also didn't realize you had to lube them with teflon etc.

[pflaming]

I numbered as sets F1L, F2R, to be certain each remained as or and position on the truck. The teflon was because I had some. Oh I also cleaned them with a rust inhibitor before reassembling. I would be cautious about removing too many leafs. After all they are the foundation for driving stability. 

[59bisquik]

You can use a C clamp on either side of the bolt to keep the springs together and just cut the bolt head off.  I would start by pulling the second from the bottom leaf and see how that works for you. If you need more, pull another. Just keep an eye on your bump stop clearance and oil pan clearance. Generally when removing leafs, you start at the second from the bottom and remove every other one until satisfied. 

 

I have new springs all around and here is what I did. I did a Sids 3" drop front axle (which I know you were not interested in), and then removed the second from the bottom spring. In the back I went from 7 leaves to 3 or 4 if memory serves. I have about 6" drop all around.

 

[PT81Jan]

A member here saw a picture of my truck some months ago and asked me (PM) how I did the lowering: "...Was wondering what your suspension set up was.  Looks really nice without being crazy low ..."

 

Here the description:

 

Rear: Just turned the shackles from the bottom up. Had to cut out the lateral sheet metal paneling under the bed a bit (marked green) to provide space when the shackles moves. Important: the positions of the axles leaf spring perches have to be altered to correct the propeller shaft angle ! Additionally I removed one or two leaf springs (the shortest ones). This btw led to a better road performance. Before it was too hard for my taste (I seldom carry heavy loads).

 

Front: This was a bit more tricky. I separated the leaf spring package and turned the longest leaf spring by 180° and put everything back together. Result is that the position of the spring`s eyelet in relation to the spring`s axle mounting point lowers the suspension. Lets say by 1½“.
The single springs have got a curved shape when relaxed. So once that with the eyelet has been turned and put back together to a package it provides an additional lowering by approx.1½ “. Reason is the opposite curves. Technically it maybe is not quite a perfect engineered solution. I indeed was a bit worried, because the single preloaded springs work against each other. But it works well since 4 years now ! Additionally I removed one or two leaf springs (also the shortes ones). Provides another ½“.

 

Ah, to separate the springs it is necessary to open the metal clamps. Therefor they have to be heated with a torch ! And I fabricated two additional clamps to keep the (opposite curved) springs properly together.

 

Note: watch out that the steering levers do not touch each other ! They are getting closer as a result.

 

 

No special parts needed, zero costs (except gas for the torch and grease for the springs) and less effort than it sounds.

Pictures here -> PT_suspension.pdf

 

 

Edited September 12, 2018 by PT81Jan

['36 Glasstruck]

Wow, very helpful posts guys! Maybe this thread should end up in the tech section. Not to say my contribution is worthy but the responses are very helpful and the pictures and diagrams great as well. I think I'm going to go ahead with it.

 

I may remove two or three in front and one or two in the rear.  I'm going for a borderline radical look. Although one thing that stops me is that I've never ridden in the truck as-is.  So I'll never have a basis for comparison of ride quality. Part of me wants to see how it rides first, but the other part of me does not want to tear everything apart again. 

[FlashBuddy]

Best of luck and of course we'll want to see the before and after photos.

['36 Glasstruck]

17 minutes ago, FlashBuddy said:

Best of luck and of course we'll want to see the before and after photos.

You got it!

[59bisquik]

Keep us updated and post plenty of pics. As for the ride, mine rode like a stiff old tractor. Now it’s a fairly smooth ride. I also got a little more smoothness and drop in ride height from the weight of the Hemi.

 

Depending on how low you drop the front, as PT81 stated watch your steering arms. When you drop an axle like I did, you have to make sure the drag link stays level or you can get bump steer. So watch the closeness and angles. I had to bend on of my arms down 3” to get it all back to stock angles.

 

I also did the spring shackle flip in the back at one time. I preferred the spring leaf reduction method better for the smoother ride. Another thing that will get you lower is spring shackles. Not sure if your older truck is like the B or C series. But a Willy’s shackle bolts right up and gives you another inch or so. They are a whopping $10 each from Rockauto Veraus $40 a piece for Dodge shackles. I did forget to mention that I have them in the back of my  truck along with the missing leafs.

['36 Glasstruck]

Thanks for the tips and will do.  My rear end sits on top of the leafs with about another 1 1/2" of U bolt thread left out the bottom. I figured I could put a spacer between the differential holder thingy and the top of the leaf for about another 1" of drop, coupled with a leaf or two removed, it should work out good.  I was over at the HAMB looking at my old thread with a few photos (bf I joined over here) and I took a good look at the photos that I haven't really seen in a while, from when I first got it.  The truck actually sits pretty nicely in stock form so I don't think I really need to go down too much further to be where I want to be, which is pretty good news, as to not disrupt the steering ect.  Keep in mind it has flat tires in the photo, so it actually sits further off the ground, but I'm referring to how the tires look in the wells etc.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 13, 2018 by '36 Glasstruck

[Plymouthy Adams]

Libby Owns Ford.....as a kid I remember the two huge smokestacks at their plant in Charleston WV...they were unique as the brickwork was such their LOC initials were viewable very far off.

[The Oil Soup]

Sid's 3'' dropped axle, Rusty Hope disc brakes reversed spring eyes removed 2nd to shortest leaf up front. Rear; Jeep shackle flipped, removed 2nd and 3rd shortest leaves, raised forward rear spring mount and Cherokee 3:55. 28'' tire front 30'' tire rear,  lower about 6'' from stock.