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Posted (edited)

on used tires....and regardless of what tire shop sellers, retailer and anyone else says...I never will X a radial and never recommend it be done even though today they it makes no difference.  So, if you know the mounting position left and right and what sidewall was facing what direction..yes a used tires can be an affordable stop gap.  BUT in the absence of that knowledge, spend the extra 50 bucks, have a warm fuzzy feeling and let the big dog roll down the road.  

 

Belt separation is still an issue with radial when reversed......I have seen too many even of late when my bud swore the manual and shop doing the work said it made no difference and let the shop x them to the tune of a new set of tires in very short order.

 

every once in a while I will run by my buds wrecking yard to see what he has pulled in new from the auctions...if he has a set of tires that are relatively new I will buy them, mark the position and he lets me bring the wheels to the house to demount and return his alloys or steelies back to him.  I get as new tires often at 40% max price of new.....no worries on belt shift...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

I think of used tires when I deal with my trailer or motorhome. They might look brand new but could be 10 years old. Just think of where those used tires are coming from and off of. Spend the extra couple bucks and get the new ones.

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Posted

I have a fairly good set of used tires for my suburban. After reading the above, once it's a serious driver, I will put on a new set. 

Posted

All of my "old" vehicles, have tires on them that are at least 15 years old. Most hobbyists would trade them in, but, I drive merely 200 miles a year on them, and only locally, and only at moderate speeds, just to shows and cruises. To me, the tires are still fine. That said, however, I would never buy used tires for any of the "old" vehicles. When I've replaced bias ply tires, I've gone radial. Significant difference in how the car will handle. Your mileage may vary. ?

Posted

 

Since you said 'new it is',  are we beating a dead horse at this point..?    That said....

 

There should be a date code stamp in every tire.  I worked for Montgomery Wards (remember them ?) in 1978 & 79 doing tires.  I used to know how to read the date code at that time, but as usual, things change, and I got older.   Long forgot how to read the date code - assuming it is still in the same 'pattern' of back then.   I know batteries also have a date code, but unsure if the date codes are similar to tires or not.

 

Most (any reputable ?) tire shops will not put a 10 year old tire on any rim.  Not knowing the date codes - choices would be - read up and figure it out prior to purchase, or as others suggest, go for the new.  (or another option ??)

 

I mostly- agree with Plymouthy Adams on the rotation thing.  I always do my rotations front to rear, maintaining same side - never an X pattern.  The theory I've heard is, the belts bend in a specific way when cornering based on the side of the vehicle.  When doing the X rotations, the belts now bend opposite of what they have been doing for some amount of miles.  This would be similar to bending a piece of metal back and forth.  Exactly how many times do you think any one of those wires that make up the belts will take to break..? That would be the amount of times you could X rotate your tires.

 

YMMV....

 

If someone knows or figures out the current tire date nomenclature - please share.

 

 

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