Clutch Pedal is on the floor

[Guest]

First of all I am new to the Forum and hope to get old at the forum. Need some advise on the Prestomatic, as I stated the clutch pedal goes to the floor unless it is pulled up manually  is this a sign of a wore out pressure plate I did notice that the clutch fork is extremely loose. The car does drive but in order to get it to move I must start it in gear whether it be forward or reverse, I hope I explained the problem also is it possible to remove the clutch and pressure plate with the engine in the car?

Thank you

Jim G

[casper50]

There should be a return spring.  Mine fell off in the garage once when I was working the clutch.  Went straight to the floor.  If the fork is loose that could have caused the spring to come off.  Too much slack.  Find the spring first.  If it's still on then adjust the nut right next to the fork socket to remove slack.

[1949 Wraith]

Is all your linkage intact and adjusted correctly? If your shift fork is very loose is it possible the clutch fork pivot is damaged or detached from the bell housing.

 

You need a fulcrum point for the fork arm to apply pressure to the release bearing. If your fork is real loose, I would check to see that it is connected properly to the clutch release sleeve assembly and attached to the fork pivot.

[dpollo]

It is not difficult to change the clutch .  No need to pull the engine,     As suggested above, check all linkage and pivot points first.

[busycoupe]

Is there a light in the trunk? It could be a mercury switch to turn the light on.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Its a mercury switch as mentioned for the trunk light.

[dpollo]

Dodgeb4ya nailed it.  BTW  I just got a 49 Windsor today  that I am going to part out.   I wonder if it has the same switch.

Edited May 8, 2018 by dpollo
more info

[pflaming]

A mercury switch on the top rear gate of my Suburban would be a nice addition. I'm going to research this. 

[Niel Hoback]

That's what mercury feels like when you shake it. Think of it as a liquid steel ball.

[Andydodge]

Jimmy.........the general way to access the clutch in our stock mopars is as follows............undo the driveshaft at both ends of it and remove it..then undo the various linkages and cables going into or attaching to the gearbox, such as speedo cable, handbrake cable and shifter linkages then undo the gearbox from the bellhousing  and remove it straight back from the bellhousing...........then remove the pressed sheet metal inspection plate that bolts to the bottom of the bellhousing and you will then see the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate with the clutch throwout fork ..............you should then be able to see why the throwout fork is loose..............these cars use a mechanical clutch mechanism so you should be able to follow the general linkage arrangement from the clutch pedal all the way to the throwout fork.........as Casper, Goat & Pollo  have mentioned, inspect everything and compare whats there to what your workshop manual shows...........as for replacing the clutch  , etc if you have got this far then you may as well replace the throwout bearing as well..........the clutch pressure plate unbolts from the flywheel and has the clutch plate inside it..............the throwout fork should have some sort of clip the holds it onto a pivot ball that bolts to the inside of the bellhousing and apart from the clip holding it to the ball should also have a return spring on the outside of the bellhousing with all the linkages that returns it and subsequently the pedal after its pushed down to disengage the clutch............as the bellhousing is bolted to the engine and to the crossmember there is no problem in removing the gearbox and the clutch etc and just leaving the bellhousing in situ ..............admittedy I have not seen your set up so have just given a general view from 10,000 miles away but hope this helps...........regards, andyd.        

[Dodgeb4ya]

The lower bell housing on the 1949-50 Chrysler cars is cast iron and not a very quick thing to remove.

To remove this lower access housing remove...

 

*Two lower 7/16" transmission studs and nuts 

*Two somewhat hidden @ rear of lower housing... 5/16" bolts directly above the cross member(access tight)

*Six 5/16" bolts on Housing (three on each side of housing)

*Two bell housing to engine reinforcement brackets (one each side)

*Eight 3/8" bolts attach these two brackets

*Front tin W/ felt dust cover and I think two 1/4' and two 5/16" short bolts

That's all?

Edited May 9, 2018 by Dodgeb4ya

[Dodgeb4ya]

I think your issue is only a linkage and possibly the over center spring adjustment.

Nothing else IMO.

[1949 Wraith]

Did you adjust the screw at the clutch pedal to get the proper it's hieght? Under floorboard on my older cars, 1 for clutch pedal and 1 for the brake pedal. It should be set so the rubber seal connects with the floorboard. This adjustment effects where the clutch to fork rod position is and will shorten the stroke giving you more length for your adjustment threads.

 

You should be set to go now that the fork is on it's pivot.