scarebird brake conversion

[55 Fargo]

1 hour ago, Frank Elder said:

                                            Good for you Don.

     I would rather give my tools to deserving people that respect them while I still have decision making capabilities rather than  have them pilfered by unworthies [relatives that don't return things they borrow.] in my dotage.

     Or worse sold by my loving yet clueless wife to some schmuck at one of her garage sales.........hopefully after the funeral.....lol.

Frankie, I agree , but once the veil to the next world opens, it just wont matter any more...

[Don Coatney]

I told my wife if I passed she should sell all my stuff as I don't want some other ass hole using my things should she remarry. She said to me what makes you think I would marry another ass hole.

[Plymouthy Adams]

8 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

I told my wife if I passed she should sell all my stuff as I don't want some other ass hole using my things should she remarry. She said to me what makes you think I would marry another ass hole.

that answer was better than..."you don't have to worry about that, he's a golfer"

[jgreg53]

I got a reply to my e-mail from scarebird.  They sent me a list of parts I will need.  My prob with my front brakes is when I hit the brakes I never know which way it's going to pull, Left or right or not at all.  Do you guys think that is an adjustment problem?

[Plymouthy Adams]

1 minute ago, jgreg53 said:

I got a reply to my e-mail from scarebird.  They sent me a list of parts I will need.  My prob with my front brakes is when I hit the brakes I never know which way it's going to pull, Left or right or not at all.  Do you guys think that is an adjustment problem?

if stock brakes, I am thinking more of a contamination problem..

[jgreg53]

would bleeding fix that?

 

[MackTheFinger]

They're either way out of adjustment or you have a leaky wheel cylinder.. Pull the drums and take a look..

[Plymouthy Adams]

contamination changes the friction coefficient of the material and the direction it pulls toward is the wheel that is working in your case  "more correct" at minimum as pointed out but the "finger" a tear down for visual is in order.....IF you can drive the car a bit and when doing so slightly ride the break so to head and burn/evaporate contaminates and the brakes after a spell of this performs more correct, you have grease/fluid issues.

[Adam H P15 D30]

41 minutes ago, jgreg53 said:

I got a reply to my e-mail from scarebird.  They sent me a list of parts I will need.  My prob with my front brakes is when I hit the brakes I never know which way it's going to pull, Left or right or not at all.  Do you guys think that is an adjustment problem?

If they pull consistently one way and heating them up as Plymouthy stated solves it temporarily, it is probably contamination. Going either way unpredictability is either they are both contaminated or adjustment. How old are the rubber brake hoses?  Either way the best bang for your buck is disc brakes, especially if you drive it a lot

Edited March 24, 2018 by Adam H P15 D30

[jgreg53]

I've had the drums off and I've tried to adjust them by feel.  I don't have the tool to set them properly

[Plymouthy Adams]

8 minutes ago, jgreg53 said:

I've had the drums off and I've tried to adjust them by feel.  I don't have the tool to set them properly

in effect, you just guessing, and if you got a good pedal, there is no guarantee that your adjustments will ensure proper wear pattern on the shoes.  Try to find the tool if staying stock, else, as suggested, upgrading to disc is very affordable effective solution for the fronts at minimum..couple avenues to address the rear.

[55 Fargo]

16 hours ago, jgreg53 said:

I've had the drums off and I've tried to adjust them by feel.  I don't have the tool to set them properly

Are the shoes new?

In this case set the " major adjusters" to factory positions with arrows as in service manual.

Then adjust minor adjusters until drums drag slightly.

Drive for several 100 miles keep adjusting the minor adjusters for better contact and pedal.

This often works but takes time. 

Even with the " tool" if new shoes are not machine arced to the drums it takes some brake wear to have really good contact resulting in good brakes with a good pedal feel.

These are not like more modern self energized bendix type brakes.

So many on here dont understand this fact and right away convert to disc brakes thinking Lockheeds are junk and not good.

Edited March 25, 2018 by 55 Fargo Spitfire

[jgreg53]

I have new shoes but haven't put them on. The shoes that are on still have half wear left.  Also looks like the bottom cylinder on passenger side maybe leaking some but not bad.

[Plymouthy Adams]

trust me, a wheel cylinder leaking is always considered....BAD

[MackTheFinger]

I'd replace the shoes, wheel cylinders, and rubber hoses on both sides...

[Shawn]

On March 22, 2018 at 12:53 AM, 40desoto said:

What master cylinder did you use? 

Do you have drums in the back or discs all the way around?

I used ECI dual master cylinder, I have disk front and drum rear. I installed a proportioning  valve from summit racing. This also maintains pressure in the brake line and prevents the fluid from flowing backwards as the master cylinder is mounted lower than the breaks. 

[55 Fargo]

On 3/25/2018 at 12:21 PM, jgreg53 said:

I have new shoes but haven't put them on. The shoes that are on still have half wear left.  Also looks like the bottom cylinder on passenger side maybe leaking some but not bad.

Leaking wheel cyl on a single MC system is a cause for concern fix it.

Install the new shoes too.

You have shoes already worn in.

Why did you start adjusting the major adjusters?

Once worn in and evenly, you need only to adjust the minors as the shoes wear.

 

 

Edited April 25, 2018 by 55 Fargo Spitfire

[Ranger]

I'm a disc brake believer. Have converted other rigs that pulled sideways. In todays traffic you need good brakes. Ready to put front disks on a 36 Plymouth but having trouble finding a bolt on kit.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

2 hours ago, Ranger said:

I'm a disc brake believer. Have converted other rigs that pulled sideways. In todays traffic you need good brakes. Ready to put front disks on a 36 Plymouth but having trouble finding a bolt on kit.

 

 

Ply-do was the only company that I knew of catering to these years with a bolt on kit for the 36 Plymouth. It was kit number TB-122.  The bracket was 3/8flat steel and if it is any help, catalog stated 69-72 Cheshell/Barficarlo/GrandPrix or 69-74 Nota--car rotors and calipers with stock bearings.  Ad emphasized BOLT ON      In appearance appears to be an easy adapter to mock up. your backing plate inner pattern being key for the adapter.  Does not mention a spacer bushing but a note at bottom page mentions some kits did come with bushings.  Stock spindles also emphasized.

[55 Fargo]

Okay guys on a front disc brake conversion with a stock MC.

Who has real world Data on the improved performance?

Now the pros,

- no lockheed adjustment 

- no brake fade

- easy to replace parts

- superior braking?

So please share your real experience and data with us.

Mg front drums are a little oversized and when a wheel cyl goes I might swap to discs.

Lets hear it?

 

[Adam H P15 D30]

2 hours ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said:

Okay guys on a front disc brake conversion with a stock MC.

Who has real world Data on the improved performance?

Now the pros,

- no lockheed adjustment 

- no brake fade

- easy to replace parts

- superior braking?

So please share your real experience and data with us.

Mg front drums are a little oversized and when a wheel cyl goes I might swap to discs.

Lets hear it?

 

55,

 

I have the stock M.C. with the check valve removed, so I pasted my earlier response below as real world experience.

I can't stress enough, the drum brakes are pretty good if adjusted very correctly.  It all goes down hill after that.

 

Adam

 

Quote from me earlier in the thread:

To be honest the Lockheed drums worked well but I didn't have the adjustment tool so they were always adjusted close but never close enough.  For the price of the tool, I could do disc brakes twice.

I drive my car in commute traffic at 70+ mph sometimes so that where the disc brakes shine.  They do slow the car better than the drums especially the 3rd or 4th time in a 1 mile stretch, so let's say a 25% improvement.

I will NEVER have to adjust brakes again (at least on the front) 100% + improvement. 

The drums are only really good after they are adjusted, goes down hill from there, discs are always adjusted correctly.  100% improvement.

 

They have been on for a few years now and I have not had to do anything to them in that time.  Which reminds me, I'm going to check the brake fluid next time I drive it

[unknown]

here is what mine looks like currently with the scarebird brake kit. I ended up drilling and taping the holes for the lower control arm since I am using the fatman drop spindles. obviously I do not have the control arms connected at the moment. 

[Robert Horne]

On ‎3‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 11:55 PM, Ranger said:

I'm a disc brake believer. Have converted other rigs that pulled sideways. In todays traffic you need good brakes. Ready to put front disks on a 36 Plymouth but having trouble finding a bolt on kit.

 

These photos were posted on a different thread, for a 36 Plymouth, bolt on, no adapter.

The caliper looks to be Volvo.   I have not found anyway it could be bolted on without an adapter...

[Plymouthy Adams]

this picture has been here before, on the assumption of Volvo, I have looked at many makes and models and have not identified any caliper with such a deep piston chamber...it would be nice if someone did know the origins of the donor.  I have been looking a some Volvo upgrades for another car based on the 3" pattern ears that will give me 66% more brake pad on stock rotor.  There are tons of examples out there...just not see the one pictured as of yet.

[40desoto]

On 3/26/2018 at 3:39 PM, unknown said:

here is what mine looks like currently with the scarebird brake kit. I ended up drilling and taping the holes for the lower control arm since I am using the fatman drop spindles. obviously I do not have the control arms connected at the moment. 

Any updated pictures on your front brake install?  It appears I have the same kit. Interested on how the steering arms where bolted on.  I noticed the alen style bolts that came with the Scarebird kit