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New 1950 dodge Truck to me


Go to solution Solved by Plymouthy Adams,

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Posted
1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

  It is often recommended to leave the nut on the end, loose, to keep things from flying when it pops loose.

 

This is also excellent advice for steering wheel removal when you are jerking on the wheel to get it broken loose.

Posted
14 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

When you mentioned a "3 jaw puller" I was picturing one of these...

648721.jpg

 

What you have IS similar to what I posted earlier, but as Tim said, the other ones are a bit beefier, and with the slugger wrench on the end you can gain a lot of leverage with a decent size hammer. It is often recommended to leave the nut on the end, loose, to keep things from flying when it pops loose.

Merle u were exactly correct....I ordered one like u pictured.....mine is not beefy enough...THANK YOU AGAIN

Posted

Ok I need to post a parts wanted and for the life of me can't get to where to do it....I need a drivers side rear hub we do not need the drum .....just hub ...Thanks Steve

Posted

yes, I'm sure someone here has a better picture than I have on hand right now to show the hook ups.  A forum search likely would turn p info as well.

Posted

The upper port is in the oil pressure galley and would be the pressure feed to your bypass filter. The lower port is the return/drain from the filter. It goes down through the oil pressure regulator spool. When pressure is low, and the spool is closed, it will block the return flow so that you can't flow oil through your filter. When the oil pressure is at a "normal" value, the valve is open to allow flow from your filter to return to the sump.

Posted

Anyone on a lead for a new rear Hub????? Also any answer on being able to change to outer rear axle seal and if we have to remove backing plate to do it or can we pull it out and replace it without removing backing plate ...Thanks ......

Posted

Looking at some pictures I have when I rebuilt my brakes, It appears that you could possibly replace the outer seal without removing the brake assembly. Drill a couple holes through the seal and use sheet metal screws to pry it out. I have little slide hammers with replaceable screw tips for this purpose.

 

But this begs a question... Are the outer seals bad? Are they leaking grease? If they are, and the grease is a bit runny, that would indicate that the inner seals are bad and the gear oil has contaminated, and diluted, the grease in the bearings.

Posted
5 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Looking at some pictures I have when I rebuilt my brakes, It appears that you could possibly replace the outer seal without removing the brake assembly. Drill a couple holes through the seal and use sheet metal screws to pry it out. I have little slide hammers with replaceable screw tips for this purpose.

 

But this begs a question... Are the outer seals bad? Are they leaking grease? If they are, and the grease is a bit runny, that would indicate that the inner seals are bad and the gear oil has contaminated, and diluted, the grease in the bearings.

Outstanding Merle thank you guess we have to do more digging I wouldn't have ever thought of that unless you replied....Wisdom thanks Merle

Posted

Ok ......just removed flywheel for turning and found this oily mess... Went to service book to read about rear main oil seal .....Those with experience how big of a job is it to replace this seal......Thanks Steve....

20180209_175337-2124x1195.jpg

Posted

While studying service man..it says nothing about removing the retainer split bracket...I also finnaly was able to search posts here although I found nothing about that retaining bracket...

Posted

I would like to just take a second and thank all of you who have helped thus far on this project....THANK You for being reponsive to my sometimes dilly questions....Steve & Braxton

Posted

Does anyone have pics/exploded view of the heat damper assembly between the exhaust and intake manifold???? The three service manuals I have and the parts book do not have one pic about how to service repair it...Thanks Steve

Posted

Ok my phone crashed and had to get a new one and before any time I visited this site it automatically took me to this thread and now I can't even find this thread without going thru my notifications...anyone ???? Thanks 

Posted
11 hours ago, 5027 steve said:

Ok my phone crashed and had to get a new one and before any time I visited this site it automatically took me to this thread and now I can't even find this thread without going thru my notifications...anyone ???? Thanks 

 

your book mark was this thread, not the site.

Posted

Good evening men...We got the intake/exhaust manifold off today(whew that was a challenge) we took what is called the push rod covers off and #1 we were pleasantly surprised how clean the interior of motor is ..no real gunk or build up .....#2 But are perplexed that the covers had no gaskets or anything the would resemble gasket sealer...I got gaskets at Napa today (actually in stock) did these motors come with gaskets from the factory???? I'm surprised it really didn't leak oil when we ran it although no pressure is built up in that area of the motor....

Posted
11 minutes ago, Jerry Roberts said:

Yes they had gaskets there . And no push rods . ( valve covers )

The only reason I said that is fel-pro lists them as push rod covers lol .... obviously there are no push rods ....THANKS steve

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