wont start

[Jerry42]

ok problem new points new condenser new rotor new cap wires,plugs, and wont start. Could the govener below the carb be bad ? its a 1950 1 1/2 ton truck dodge b2 

[59bisquik]

Did it run before you replaced the ignition components?

[Jerry42]

yes

[Jerry42]

yes it ran I have replaced the fuel tank new fuel line I checked I do have spark at the plug just wont start 

[59bisquik]

1) You have spark, but are the wires on in the correct position? If it worked before the tune-up, check the items you touched.

2) Is the carb getting fuel? 

3) Will it start on starting fluid to verify ignition is working and it might be a fuel/carb issue?

[Jerry42]

thanks 59 Im pretty sure the plug wires are ok I did them one at a time.

the carb is getting fuel new fuel pump I see it squirting down the throat

tried starting fluid and pouring gas in the carb still a no go

it has a govener under the carb could that be bad ?

[59bisquik]

The governor is a possibility, but given it was running before the tune-up, I would go over the wires one more time. Hopefully somebody else can chime in about this governor. My truck doesn't have one and I am not familiar with it.

[NiftyFifty]

I'm not sure what you mean by a governor under the carb? Are you referring to the heat riser spring?  If it ran before and you didn't touch the fuel system since it ran, but you did the ignition, it's most likely something there.  If you have spark and even with gas down the carb it won't fire, then sounds like timing is way way off.

[1940 Dodge VC]

Not firing at all or a bit of a spark? If it has spark, could the distributor be 180 degrees off? Was it removed for any reason? Is the vacuum tube connected? Is the vacuum advance diaphram working--does it leak? Is the thin wire in the distributor grounding out anywhere?

[Jerry42]

thanks its a king seely govener right below the carb

yes gas down the carb and still no go

Idid not take the dist out it does not have vacum,just the points hook up and condenser hook up that post and the insulator looked good (where it goes through the Dist.)

I guess I;ll check the timing tomorrow, what is the easiest way to do this? thanks for the responses

 

 

[Jerry42]

oh and the spark it seems good at the plugs

[Don Coatney]

It sounds as if you have compression and it sounds as if you have fuel as you see squirts deep in the carburetor throat when the accelerator butterfly is opened. So that leaves spark. Rotate the engine to top dead center on the timing mark. Remove the plug wire from the number one cylinder and plug in a spare spark plug that you can ground to the engine head where it is visible. Next loosen the distributor timing slot to the point where you can spin the distributor freely. With the ignition key on rotate the distributor until you see the spare plug fire. At that point lock down the distributor and the engine is now statically timed. If you do not see spark do the same with the spare plug and the number 6 plug wire. If you see a spark the distributor is 180 degrees out. Fix that and repeat the spare plug test with number 1. At this point the engine should start. Then use your timing light to dial in the timing per the book.

[Dodgeb4ya]

The governor is not the problem.

Most likely ignition issue.

[Jerry42]

ok thanks for the help will try that tomorrow will let all know what I find 

[Jerry42]

ok don I didnt do like you said but I got #1 piston on top compression stroke and checked the rotor it is at #1 or about 700 o clock position but couldnt find the timing mark on the damper crank ..... What confuses me is the truck was running before and I didnt move the Dist. 

[Don Coatney]

When you gaped the new points you changed the timing.

[Jerry42]

so I need to move the dist. while trying to start it?

[Plymouthy Adams]

just keep in mind....the more you alter without finding the cause the more you can add to the original problem...go back over your original work...

[Don Coatney]

42 minutes ago, Jerry42 said:

so I need to move the dist. while trying to start it?

Go back and read posting # 12.

[greg g]

How did you determine that number one cylinder was on compression when you set the initial timing?  If it was on compression, the timing marks should be visible. While 1 and 6 are at tdc at the same time, one of them is an compression the other is not.  You need to determine that number 1 is on compression not just at tdc.

[1940 Dodge VC]

If there is strong spark, and gas, all that is left is flooded engine, timing or the rotor/cap position. If you didn't take the distributor out, then it should be firing on #1. Check your spark wires again. The 7 o'clock position is very close to the 9 o'clock position, so if your wires were off, you may have put them back on, one position off. (I'm speaking from personal experience  ) Also check that the notch in the cap is aligned with the notch in the distributor body.

After checking for flooding and the rotor/cap/wire positions, then check the timing as per Don's approach (thread #12 above). You could also try the static light method, which I prefer because it is easier for me to find the timing sweet spot.

The static light method: Remove the cap. Wire a light between the points  (or where the power goes from the distributor to the coil) and ground. Turn the ignition key on. The light should be on (unless the points are in the open position). Use a wrench on the generator pulley nut to slowly turn the engine in the clockwise direction (when viewed from the front). Watch the light. When it goes out, the points have opened. That is the point where the field in the coil collapses, sending a high voltage spike to the cap, through the rotor to what ever plug the rotor is aligned to. This is the point where the spark plug would fire. Now check the timing mark. It should be aligned to the factory spec. If it is at the factory spec, the rotor should be in the 7 o'clock position for #1. If the timing mark is not aligned with the indicator, then continue to turn the engine in a clockwise fashion until it aligns to the correct mark, then rotate your distributor body in a clockwise direction until the light goes off. Secure the distributor (there are two ways to loosen the distributor--the bolt that holds the distributor to the engine block, and the friction fit bracket that fits on the distributor shaft housing). Make sure both are tight. On the 201, factory timing is for TDC.

You'll find a better description, with pictures, of the static light process by googling it.

Now check the rotor position and cap again. Are these aligned for the #1 wire? 

Hope you don't feel like we're piling up on you. These things can be very challenging!

[Don Coatney]

If the oil pump was not indexed when it was installed the rotor could be pointing anywhere when the number 1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.