Time for an overhaul...

[thebeebe5]

Just about to get started pulling the engine/trans in the '37.   At 60333 miles its due. Way down on power.  I'll update this thread with progress.  Have enjoyed reading the  engine overhaul tips in other threads and will continue to do so.  

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

down on power but is it down on compression and up on oil consumption?  State of tune also comes into play, what you basing a rebuild on, not to argue, just asking questions...

[thebeebe5]

4 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

down on power but is it down on compression and up on oil consumption?  State of tune also comes into play, what you basing a rebuild on, not to argue, just asking questions...

Compression's down.   Puking oil.  It's time. 

This motor has not been done.   Those are original miles.  I did a valve adjust and carb work back when I got it.   Just hasn't any oomph.

Edited June 3, 2017 by thebeebe5

[DrDoctor]

thebeebe5,

   The ’37 coupe looks extremely nice. I love the brown—you just don’t see many brown cars, but it’s perfect on it. I’m curious, tho’—it looks like a mid-60’s Ford product in bare-metal sitting along side of your Plymouth. Is it??? Thx.

[thebeebe5]

16 minutes ago, DrDoctor said:

thebeebe5,

   The ’37 coupe looks extremely nice. I love the brown—you just don’t see many brown cars, but it’s perfect on it. I’m curious, tho’—it looks like a mid-60’s Ford product in bare-metal sitting along side of your Plymouth. Is it??? Thx.

Lol. You saw only a fin?   You're sick.  

 

[Worden18]

Good luck on your rebuild.  I finished mine not too long ago; still working out a few bugs.   It was a lot of fun, and I'm reaping the benefits now.  Plenty of power, engine runs great, not dumping in oil with every stop at the gas station.  Take lots of pictures and take notes if you have to for reassembly 

[dpollo]

I owned a P4 sedan for thirty years from 1968 to 1998.   At 54 400 miles I bored to .050 and ground the crank 010.  new cam bearings and chain and used a later oil pump.   A GOOD runner .   A word of caution.  Mark the oil cross over pipe before removing it.  If you put it on end for end, the counterweight just kisses it , making a most alarming noise.   The correct way does not look as neat as the wrong way but clears everything.

[thebeebe5]

56 minutes ago, dpollo said:

I owned a P4 sedan for thirty years from 1968 to 1998.   At 54 400 miles I bored to .050 and ground the crank 010.  new cam bearings and chain and used a later oil pump.   A GOOD runner .   A word of caution.  Mark the oil cross over pipe before removing it.  If you put it on end for end, the counterweight just kisses it , making a most alarming noise.   The correct way does not look as neat as the wrong way but clears everything.

I'll check that crossover closely.   Doubt I'll get it torn down today.  Too many things going on.  Trans is out, and I hope to have the engine on a stand when the day is done.

[55 Fargo]

6 hours ago, thebeebe5 said:

Compression's down.   Puking oil.  It's time. 

This motor has not been done.   Those are original miles.  I did a valve adjust and carb work back when I got it.   Just hasn't any oomph.

Yes this would be reason enough.

I did not think as another you needed just points and plugs so you figured time for a rebuild.

My 228 engine is down on power and compression too...

[John Reddie]

Great looking car. If it were mine, I do the same thing.

John R

[thebeebe5]

Got the trans and flywheel out, but that's about all.    That darned bellhousing is being a PITA... Any tips or tricks for getting it free of the crossmember?  The only bad thing about doing this at the shop is that I won't get back to it until next Saturday. But the benefits are fantastic.  I'll never be able to work without a lift again....

 

Edited June 5, 2017 by thebeebe5

[Plymouthy Adams]

A home lift is a great asset......they are very much affordable these days and something that I recommend if you do much work on cars.  I use mine not only for ease of access for mainenace actions I also do 90% of my body welding with the car on my lift.   Even welding interior as you can raise it just enough to lean in and weld.  Body work is a much easier also for the side and lower extremeities.  Overall one of the better shop aids one can buy for themselves.

 

 

Edited August 23, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams

[thebeebe5]

Progress.  Now, with 12 engine stands in the shop I can't find one that will adjust narrow enough....  Might have to get on the mill and make something...

 

[Don Coatney]

[thebeebe5]

Ended up flipping uppers.  Worked out great.

 

 

[thebeebe5]

Should be torn down by end of day.  

Couple questions;

1. Is this a regular core plug or freeze plug kind of thing in the head that I'd knock out prior to hot tanking this cylinder head?

2. Are the core plugs in the block easily knocked out like a standard V8?  Or are the resting against a stop in the block and I need to pull them with a slide hammer.....?

Water pump removal is proving difficult.  

Edited July 30, 2017 by thebeebe5

[Don Coatney]

Yes remove  the core plug in the head. I self tapping sheet medal screw and a claw hammer works well for removal.

[thebeebe5]

Trying for leverage.   Might be easier to get a different motor....  

 

 

Edit:

 

BINGO!

 

Edited June 17, 2017 by thebeebe5

[Mike36]

To gain power, consider splitting the  exhaust manifold for duals, and adding a 2 carb. intake. My 230 will accelerate up a steep hill in high gear. The better they breath, the better they run. Nice car.

[Don Coatney]

I have never had that much difficulty removing a water pump. I see yours is mounted using studs and not bolts. That may be why you are having so much trouble. Suggest you double nut the studs and see if you can screw them out.

[thebeebe5]

5 minutes ago, Don Coatney said:

I have never had that much difficulty removing a water pump. I see yours is mounted using studs and not bolts. That may be why you are having so much trouble. Suggest you double nut the studs and see if you can screw them out.

My understanding is that's normal for the early motors, Don.  Problem solved.  Well, one of them.  The tube looks like it will be coming out in pieces...

[thebeebe5]

Almost done but ran out of time. Still need to pop out that front core plug and get the water tube out.   Looks like the motor has been done before.  Bore is 3.140". Crank looks good but haven't mic'd it yet.  Rings are wore right out. Cylinder bores look pretty good. No major scoring. Bearings were full of crap. The soft metal did its job and captured a lot of contaminants. Timing chain was pretty loose.  A couple of valves were really stuck, but they disn't seem bent   Closer inspection next weekend may reveal a different story.

That filter like oil pickup screwed into the third main cap...  Does that get replaced?  

Need to figure out where to tap into the block to add a remote full flow filter. 

And loads of small parts to blast and paint.  This will take all summer.   

[dpollo]

Looks like your engine encountered a porcupine !  

 The oil pickup is just a screen.  Two different designs were used.  One is about the size of a spin on filter, it does not come apart.  The earlier design is larger and does come apart.  In any case,  it takes patience and strong solvents to clean them.

If you are going to install a full flow filter, the block can be drilled on the pressure side of the oil pump and the filtered oil delivered to the other side of the block.  Some blocks, but not the 201 have raised casting bosses just behind the generator to make this easier.   Although a FF filter is a good thing, I have never felt that the extra external plumbing was worth the risk.  

[thebeebe5]

Back at it today.  I have to wonder what's actually left in there...

This could take all day....

[Plymouthy Adams]

maybe an oil pressure regulator piston.....too many admit of late this gets easily over looked before baby's first bath.