56 dodge c3 jobrated build thread

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

Our truck before we bought it........... 

 

 

After they painted it and how we bought it.....

Edited March 2, 2017 by 56 dodge c3 jobrated truck

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

This is after taking it apart to see if the rear suspension was structurally sound and to change the wood on the bed as well as all the rusty nuts and bolts....

Yes one of the rear fender is red and one is blue.......... Just trying the color out..... And giving my husband more to do... LOL....

[59bisquik]

Looks like a good start! While the bed is off, it's a perfect time to flip the rear shackles and get her lower to the ground...

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

17 minutes ago, 59bisquik said:

Looks like a good start! While the bed is off, it's a perfect time to flip the rear shackles and get her lower to the ground...

I told my husband and he asked just the rear shackles and is there anything else he can do to give it a lower stance? Also is there any modifications he will have to do to the front to even it out?

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

Ok my husband wants to get the opinion of everyone on the shackles..... To him they look good..... But since he really isn't a mechanic by trade he would like a second opinion from someone on here......

Edited March 3, 2017 by 56 dodge c3 jobrated truck

[Young Ed]

5 minutes ago, 56 dodge c3 jobrated truck said:

Ok my husband wants to get the opinion of everyone on the shackles..... To him they look good..... But since he really isn't  mechanic he is a hobbyist he would like a second opinion from someone on here......

The hanger doesn't appear worn but I think the shackle should be closer to the bushing

 

[59bisquik]

The rear shackles can be replaced with 53 Willy's rear shackles from Rockauto.com for about $10 a piece. They are shorter and will also allow then to be flipped over to lower the truck with minimum modifications to the bed. The replacement Dodge shackles are around $40 a piece.

As for the ones you have pictured, the bushings should be drawn up closer. This is the perfect time to replace them since they are probably worn out.

Dropping the front can be a bit more difficult. Removing a leaf can get you down 1-1.5" but getting your axle dropped will get you 3" plus whatever you get out of the springs. With lower profile tires, I am down about 6" in the front.

Check out my build thread. There are plenty of pics about how I lowered mine. The 55 and 56 are practically identical with the exception of the windshield and such.

 

[lonejacklarry]

12 hours ago, 59bisquik said:

The rear shackles can be replaced with 53 Willy's rear shackles from Rockauto.com for about $10 a piece. They are shorter and will also allow then to be flipped over to lower the truck with minimum modifications to the bed. The replacement Dodge shackles are around $40 a piece. 

Are these the correct shackles?

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1953,willys,2.2l+134cid+l4,1421064,suspension,leaf+spring+shackle,7484

[59bisquik]

Yup, you will need a left and a right.

You can use them in stock positioning in the rear for a small ride height adjustment or flip them over for 4+ inches of drop. Unfortunately, they cannot be used on the front axle. Looks like they would interfere with the crossmember.

Edited March 3, 2017 by 59bisquik

[Merle Coggins]

I understand how flipping them up will lower the ride height, but wouldn't that also change the angle of the axle and put your driveline slightly out of phase? Also, wouldn't the shorter shackle limit the spring travel as it straightens out under compression? And with it going over the top of the bushing housing would it make contact there under extreme flex?

Merle

[59bisquik]

Depending on the condition of your springs, it can throw the angle of the driveline off a bit which is easily remedied with a set of angle shims.

As for suspension travel, I do live on a dirt road and articulate it quite a bit while driving it to the highway. I have freshly painted springs and frame and there are no rub or contact marks on either and it rides nice. Secondly, with the lower ride, I think the axle would hit the bump stop well before the spring came in contact with the bushing housing.

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

Hubby just finished flipping the shackles......  And leveling it out  even if he knows that it'll change somewhat when the bed Is on once more.....I guess he just wanted to see the profile with its new ride height. My husband said he hopes he did it right..... The other side looks the same.  Also he wanted me to mention that the shackles we have don't have rubber bushings.

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

We haven't named our truck yet........ My husband and I decided to show our appreciation to everyone for being so welcoming, nice and helpful to us...... We are going to let everyone decide among each other our trucks name. . It will also be the license plate. So please let us know what name you come up with.... We are here in California and so it could be 7 or less letters I believe. Thank you everyone

[ggdad1951]

The rubber seal is almost never there on the shackles, I wouldn't worry about it.  

[59bisquik]

There is sometimes just a rubber cup at the ends to keep the dirt out. But it's a metal bushing and needs to be greased.

As for the shackles, he has done it right. However, I believe you will have some bed interference issues with the stock shackles. The Willys shackles are quite a bit shorter and only require a bit of sheet metal trimmed underneather the bed which is covered by the fenders and can't be seen from the top when assembled. See my previous link for details.

make sure you check the driveline angle to see if shims are needed or not to correct the pinion angle. 

[wayfarer]

21 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

I understand how flipping them up will lower the ride height, but wouldn't that also change the angle of the axle and put your driveline slightly out of phase? Also, wouldn't the shorter shackle limit the spring travel as it straightens out under compression? And with it going over the top of the bushing housing would it make contact there under extreme flex?

Merle

Driveshaft 'phase' is the relationship of one u-joint to the next and whether or not they are positioned-aligned the same in the tube.

[Merle Coggins]

1 hour ago, wayfarer said:

Driveshaft 'phase' is the relationship of one u-joint to the next and whether or not they are positioned-aligned the same in the tube.

Yes, you are correct. I used the wrong term. I meant to refer to the alignment, or the angles of the trans output flange to the axle pinion flange.

[59bisquik]

I knew what you meant Merle! 

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

7 hours ago, 59bisquik said:

There is sometimes just a rubber cup at the ends to keep the dirt out. But it's a metal bushing and needs to be greased.

As for the shackles, he has done it right. However, I believe you will have some bed interference issues with the stock shackles. The Willys shackles are quite a bit shorter and only require a bit of sheet metal trimmed underneather the bed which is covered by the fenders and can't be seen from the top when assembled. See my previous link for details.

make sure you check the driveline angle to see if shims are needed or not to correct the pinion angle. 

Ok now when we go on rockauto.com and put for the 53 Willys shackles it gives a list of cars. Can you tell me which car or better yet can you just give me the part number so I dont order the wrong ones? Please     Thank you..

[59bisquik]

LoneJackLarry's link is the right one. Get a left and right.

Omix-ada 1827012

Omix-ada 1827013

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php?carcode=1421064&parttype=7484

Edited March 5, 2017 by 59bisquik

[56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu]

1 hour ago, 59bisquik said:

LoneJackLarry's link is the right one. Get a left and right.

Omix-ada 1827012

Omix-ada 1827013

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php?carcode=1421064&parttype=7484

Thank you very much............

[The Oil Soup]

The front spring hanger can be moved up with a piece of angle mounted on top of the frame. On the front axle the spring eyes can be reversed on the B series trucks, not sure of C series. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-reversing-spring-eyes.90824/

[59bisquik]

Yes, on the rear, the front hanger could be removed and positioned higher instead of using axle shims. But it would require some bed trimming, your greasing port would be gone and the shims are cheap and easy.

As for the front, reversed spring eyes could be done if you were doing custom springs.

Edited March 6, 2017 by 59bisquik

[The Oil Soup]

The front spring hanger can be moved up with a piece of angle mounted on top of the frame. On the front axle the spring eyes can be reversed on the B series trucks, not sure of C series. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-reversing-spring-eyes.90824/

[59bisquik]

Ok... I had to look at that post again. That's pretty cool for those that have a press. I didn't realize that could be done and would give a nice drop on the cheap.