Explorer axle swap

[41P11Coupe]

Finally ready to swap out the rear axle in my 41 Plymouth. I did a lot of research here and I'm ready to move forward. I purchased a rear axle from a 98 Ford explorer. I will be putting a 318 and automatic transmission.

I've measured the pinion angle and did the measurements for the location of the perches. The axle from the 41 has a angle of approximately 4° and the explorer 8°. My question is this: When I weld  the new perches on the explorer axle do I set the angle to the 41 axle or keep the explorer angle?

Thanks

[Plymouthy Adams]

well....as you will also be setting a new engine and tranny and you have yet to discover the angle you may be stuck with there even when you try for a predetermined angle...I would advise that you set the rear angle last as determined by the tranny/engine angle and keep in mind also the angle of the driveshaft over the length as this also will determine max RPM of the shaft rotation....now if you were holding your original engine and such then you WOULD match the very angle of the 41....odds are you may be able to do this and stay within an operational range but again..you will be just guessing..

[DJ194950]

Put it together but Do not weld the rear axle pads yet.

When the engine/trans etc. are installed the check the angle of the transmission output and match the rear-end angle to that and finally weld the rear axle pads in. May require removal of the rear-end again to weld up really good, but it is the only way to make the angle right so the drive shaft does not vibrate and the u-joints will have a long life.

DJ

[littlemo]

This may or may not help ???  Thanks Don C..

Edited December 16, 2016 by littlemo

[falconvan]

The way I've always done them when swapping a full drivetrain is to set a 3 degree downward angle on the trans output and a 3 degree upward angle on the pinion when fully loaded (sitting on the wheels with all the weight of the car on it.) Never had vibe issues going this route.

Edited December 16, 2016 by falconvan

[Plymouthy Adams]

remember parallel lines and stay within the limits of the driveshaft angle for intended RPM and you will always work out fine..parallel can be left and right offset,  high and low offset or a combination of both...

Edited December 16, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[martybose]

I've always been told that the first diagram showing everything perfectly in line should never be done, as the lack of angular motion on the U-joints will kill the needle bearings, because the lack of motion means they don't stay lubricated.  The best setup was the second diagram; it would have no vibration, but has enough angular movement to lubricate the needle bearings.

 

Marty

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes..the u-joints need a certain amount of movement...example 1 in the picture above is there to show that you must have the endcaps also aligned in constructing your tube so to maintain phase of the joint to joint on the shaft itself...

Edited December 16, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[dale]

Unscientific.....Shoot for perfect alignment and you will be off just about right.. LOL.

[Adam H P15 D30]

Make sure the weight is on the axle when you determine your pinion angle.  Also, you can use the factory Explorer sway bar set up with little modification as long as you don't cut the sway bar perches off the rear axle.

[41P11Coupe]

Seems like the easiest thing to do would be to put the original axle back in so I can roll the car. I ordered new perches from Summit so once I install the engine and tranny I will move back to the axle. I will be picking an engine up tomorrow and get the transmission from u-pull it.. I am going to order the kit from Butches cool stuff. It asks me if I going to use the original steering ( the answer to that would be no) so they can send me the motor mounts with a off set. So when do I approach the steering system?

Thanks

[Plymouthy Adams]

that would probably be the best bet..setting the rear perches and angle is a simple task and easily pulled off about any time after setting engine....

 

Edited December 17, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[wayfarer]

You can do all of the rear axle work, minus the perch welding, and still do all of the engine/trans stuff.

With the u-bolts snug the rear axle will not move around much and once you have all the rest of the work done then go back and weld the perch.

[DJ194950]

21 hours ago, 41P11Coupe said:

Seems like the easiest thing to do would be to put the original axle back in so I can roll the car. I ordered new perches from Summit so once I install the engine and tranny I will move back to the axle. I will be picking an engine up tomorrow and get the transmission from u-pull it.. I am going to order the kit from Butches cool stuff. It asks me if I going to use the original steering ( the answer to that would be no) so they can send me the motor mounts with a off set. So when do I approach the steering system?

Thanks

You are going to need the steering set up Before mounting the engine because exhaust manifold fit, steer column mocked up for clearance issues etc.

One thing ties into the next and next, on and on. Needs to thought through before any one thing is finalized Tack weld any parts together. When everything fits and works then final welding can be done.

Makes the rear end set up sound simple now doesn't it?

DJ

[41P11Coupe]

Great: still getting motivation

Bought the engine today, great looking engine, from what I gather the person rebuilt the engine for a 70-72 Barracuda then decided on a hemi. I put a tilt column from a 85-88 Buick in my 65 Ford pickup.  Don't know how to approach the  steering system for this car, just want some kind of power steering system. I have the original column to measure against. I am leaning toward Butches cool stuff for that but any advice would definitely effect my decision. Your responses are definitely keeping me  motivated.

Thanks

I've had a anvil dropped on my head but.......

[41P11Coupe]

Mr. Wayfarer

So put the Explorer axle just past the locating pin and sung it up to do the engine work?

 

[wayfarer]

16 hours ago, 41P11Coupe said:

Mr. Wayfarer

So put the Explorer axle just past the locating pin and sung it up to do the engine work?

 

...???.... Install the axle, with the spring perches sitting on the springs held together with the u-bolts.

The new perch is sitting on the spring, placed on the locating pin, the axle is just sitting loose on the perch. Install the u-bolts and snug them up. It will stay there while you do everything else. When you get back to setting the pinion angle then loosen the u-bolts slightly and adjust the pinion.

BTW, new perches for the narrow springs are commonly found at trailer supply shops.

[Robert Horne]

When I did an install on my 38,,, 87 Ranger 5 speed, 1995 Ranger rearend, I used trailer supply perches.

2 degree on the trans, and rearend.     Driveshaft from a Explorer 2 wheel drive, 2 door.     I did like Wayfarer stated,

just snug the u-bolts down to move the vehicle around until you get ready to weld the perches.....

 

Edited December 19, 2016 by Robert Horne

[Newbee]

Is the bolt pattern on the Explorer the same as the stock one? I have a 50 Suburban and have found a 1997 Explorer rear end on Craig for $150. I want to make sure that I can use the stock rims. 

[41P11Coupe]

I'm not sure, I haven't tried the stock rims on it. I know they are five lug but that's about it.

Sorry  I couldn't be more help

[58prostreet]

I have a 98 Explorer rear in my '52 dodge and I am running stock rims with no clearance problems. Same bolt pattern.

[50 coupe]

Ditto here for a 50 Coupe. Using '98 Explorer disc brake rear end and Ply. factory wheel. No problem.

[dale]

Unscientific.....Shoot for perfect alignment and you will be off just about right.. LOL.

[dale]

In the first picture whats that think attached to the center housing ?  Are the shocks going to hookup or is modification necessary ? 

 

Edited January 14, 2017 by dale
addition

[41P11Coupe]

I picked up a 318 from craigslist. Went to u-pull it and pulled a 727 transmission from a 76 Dodge van. I set the carburetor at zero°, when I check the output shaft on the trans I am about at 4°. Fabricated a trans mount: still need to weld it together but will do that once I determine the offset of the engine. I had no steering gearbox or column but did have the steering linkage. Got a cavalier rack and am working with getting that installed, also picked up a column.