Door Hinges

[50 coupe]

Need to adjust door hinges and trying to loosen the hinge bolts.  Not having success with an impact driver at this point. Quick question. When applying heat to the bolt/screws, do you apply the flame to the bolt/screw head or go behind it and apply to the shank end?

[casper50]

apply it to the surrounding area.  It will expand faster than the bolt and should pop loose.  Door hinge screws are terrible to remove if rusted in.

Edited August 15, 2016 by casper50

[Dave72dt]

I would apply it to the bolt.  I suspect a layer of sheet metal between the hinge and the plate the bolts actually go into.  That layer of sheet metal will absorb most of the heat and you'll get very little of it where you really need it. possibly burning through it or warping it.  Applied to the bolt, the bolt will try to expand, won't be able to and then shrink back as it cools, breaking the rust free.  If you have good access directly to the heavy plate, go for it.

[suntennis]

For adjustment to door you mention bolt/screw area. You are aware that there are three bolts per hinge inside the door that provide door hinge adjustment.

[50 coupe]

For adjustment to door you mention bolt/screw area. You are aware that there are three bolts per hinge inside the door that provide door hinge adjustment.

Aahhh, so it's the bolts under the trim panel on the door itself I need to loosen. Ok, glad I asked. Hopefully these have bolt heads instead of Phillips heads. Thanks Suntennis!!

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes...usually you find the bolt here...the jambs being flush to the door requires the recessed Phillips heads....and if you decide to remove these...do heat them cherry red two cycles...and when it has cooled through the red stage you can then apply the tool and pressure.....

[50 coupe]

yes...usually you find the bolt here...the jambs being flush to the door requires the recessed Phillips heads....and if you decide to remove these...do heat them cherry red two cycles...and when it has cooled through the red stage you can then apply the tool and pressure.....

Would I heat on the screw head or on the other end from behind the hinge?

[suntennis]

If you remove the hinge from the door post, you may want to check the door for up and down movement to see if you need to replace or repair the hinge pins.

[Plymouthy Adams]

concentrate the heat on the head of the screw...this will bust the rust....I suggested two heat cycles as this is normal for a bolt in a hole unlike the heat on a nut that when heated will enlarge the diameter of the nut slightly...do get it red....you have a few threads on the average past the nut plate that usually is pretty rusted....if this get very tight half way through removal.....stop...reapply the heat....do not hurry...haste makes waste...

[50 coupe]

At this point the doors feel tight on the hinges. I have to redo the floors and body mounts but at this point I just want to get the doors lined up as well as possible. Neither open or close without having to lift, ect.

[Plymouthy Adams]

if you have to lift the door and the hinges show no play and your floor and rockers show lots of rust...odds are you are experiencing body sag...when I do rockers I have a special set of shop aides that will allow me to proper lift and align the body when replacing this metal.  Do leave the door on and able to swing open and shut as you do this work as you will be quite surprised how the metal when heated during welding will creep and walk...you want to do your repairs while keeping the door properly centered in the opening and watching all you gaps as you go....

[50 coupe]

concentrate the heat on the head of the screw...this will bust the rust....I suggested two heat cycles as this is normal for a bolt in a hole unlike the heat on a nut that when heated will enlarge the diameter of the nut slightly...do get it red....you have a few threads on the average past the nut plate that usually is pretty rusted....if this get very tight half way through removal.....stop...reapply the heat....do not hurry...haste makes waste...

OK, makes me nervous playing with flame inside the car. Fortunately, there isn't much of an interior in it now. No headliner, carpet, kick panels, front seat. Just rust and dust.

[Plymouthy Adams]

with all that removed....you have only to worry about setting yourself on fire.....DO keep an extinguisher nearby......remember, wet rags do well to sink heat and keep creep in line.........I have even used lengths of foam rubber soaked with water as a method to keep heat in check..this works well also when welding one panel close to that of the other to prevent super heating that other panel backing the one you working....get some magnets to keep your rags in place....

[DJ194950]

Check the pivot pins to make sure that they  are pivoting on the inner(smaller) part of the hinge not the other way.  Have worked on two 49-50 Plymouths and both had problems from years of lack of lube. Had to remove from one of them (also not so easy as you are finding!)   and drill  the pins out as they were broken and totally frozen in the the smaller part of the hinge and only  were pivoting  in the larger part and they had worn out the holes. These Do Not use any type of bushings so mine had to become oversized  holes and pins. 

 

Sure hope someone lubed yours during its life.  Good luck!! 

 

DJ

[50 coupe]

Hopefully I can adjust the doors by just loosening the hinge bolts inside the door. I got a 10 inch vise clamp to use to compress the inner door panel so I can get to the pins on the door and window cranks to get them off.

[stan's52]

When I removed the hinges on my 52 Concord, it was quite a fight. I believe you will need to heat the nut on the inside, as well as the head. I heated mine dull red. If you have a torch with a small tip this is better. As it was cooling I used a spray can of rust busting solvent on the parts. A impact screwdriver is a must.  a couple of my captive nuts turned in the holder. I was able to get a vise grip plier on the nut to hold it from turning. Like I said quite a fight. Stan

[50 coupe]

Update** I was able to successfully adjust the passenger side door by loosening the door side hinge bolts. No need to remove the phillips heads on the door jam, thank goodness!!!!. I will attempt the driver side next weekend. Good opportunity to pull the door panel to lube and inspect the door and window mechanisms. Door window glass on both sides have cracks. I have replacement glass and rubber from the PO. Any feedback on how easy/difficult it is to replace door windows??