casper50 Posted August 6, 2016 Report Posted August 6, 2016 (edited) head gasket seperates chambers. It didn't make it over to the correct valve. There are two valves per piston. Exhaust and intake. One you can see one you can't Edited August 6, 2016 by casper50 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 6, 2016 Report Posted August 6, 2016 each head chamber houses an intake and an exhaust valve and of course opens to the cylinder itself and the spark plug threaded hole..the chambers are closed in relationship to any of the other chambers Quote
Fastback50 Posted August 6, 2016 Author Report Posted August 6, 2016 Okay that makes sense. So now I know it's still dry as a bone and frozen up good. The plot thickens haha. Quote
casper50 Posted August 6, 2016 Report Posted August 6, 2016 Best way is to remove the head. It will also let you see if anything else is bad. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 6, 2016 Report Posted August 6, 2016 (edited) casper50, on 06 Aug 2016 - 3:23 PM, said:Best way is to remove the head. It will also let you see if anything else is bad. I agree...and as the head is off and good inspection can be made..you then can make the call if of if not to hand lap the valves at this time. It is something I do recommend for an older engine of unknown merit... and if you do not have your manual handy...gueeks-draw Don has pasted you up some nice photos...hopefully you have a manual or by now have one on order... Edited August 6, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Fastback50 Posted August 6, 2016 Author Report Posted August 6, 2016 I agree...and as the head is off and good inspection can be made..you then can make the call if of if not to hand lap the valves at this time. It is something I do recommend for an older engine of unknown merit... and if you do not have your manual handy...gueeks-draw Don has pasted you up some nice photos...hopefully you have a manual or by now have one on order... Ouch. Okay. On one hand I'm excited to take the head, on the other bummed because I know it will be more time, and probably $$ lol. That said, lapping valves is something I've never done and it doesn't look too bad. I DO have my service manual, and want to say it gives pretty good instruction on head removal, including bolt torque sequence. Quote
Young Ed Posted August 6, 2016 Report Posted August 6, 2016 For trial purposes you can reuse the head gasket as long as it doesn't tear when you remove it. Dad and I did a p23 with stuck valves and we reused that gasket a couple times until we were sure they were going to stay unstuck. 1 Quote
Fastback50 Posted August 7, 2016 Author Report Posted August 7, 2016 For trial purposes you can reuse the head gasket as long as it doesn't tear when you remove it. Dad and I did a p23 with stuck valves and we reused that gasket a couple times until we were sure they were going to stay unstuck. Excellent info Ed, I was wondering if I could take it off, get the valve unstuck, reattach the head and work out other issues. Later, I could revisit lapping valves, etc. What procedures did you use to unstick your valves? Quote
Young Ed Posted August 7, 2016 Report Posted August 7, 2016 Excellent info Ed, I was wondering if I could take it off, get the valve unstuck, reattach the head and work out other issues. Later, I could revisit lapping valves, etc. What procedures did you use to unstick your valves? Pull head tap them down turn engine over a bit to see if they went up and down and replaced head. Quote
James_Douglas Posted August 7, 2016 Report Posted August 7, 2016 Before you do that... Remove the one valve spring and retainer from the stuck valve. Use a torch to heat up valve guide, not the valve. Tap the valve if you can from the bottom or use a screwdriver or chisel as a wedge between the valve tip and the lifter. TAKE IT EASY THOUGH. If you can get the valve to move up a bit you may be able to free it. If you take the head off you can do the same thing and just tap on it with a rawhide hammer until it moves. If you are going to take the head off, I would just pull all of the valves and use a brush on the guides, polish the shafts on the valves and stick them back in. James. Quote
Fastback50 Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Posted August 14, 2016 Hey all-- I got the head removed today and found the stuck valve. I soaked it in ATF and turned the motor to see if anything else was stuck and found no other issues. I think my plan at this point is to get the valve unstuck and to put it back together so I can work on getting it rolling. Let me know if this is a horrible idea lol. Before I do that, I would like to know what to use for cleaning all the old carbon and gunk off the piston tops, valves, and top of the engine block/underside of the head. I'd like to at least put it back together cleaner than what it was. I'm also deciding on whether or not to lap the valves. Pointers/ideas? Quote
_shel_ny Posted August 14, 2016 Report Posted August 14, 2016 (edited) Mod could move this to continue: http://p15-d24.com/topic/41613-p19-with-dead-cylinder/page-4 post moved Edited August 14, 2016 by shel_ny Quote
Fastback50 Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Posted August 14, 2016 Mod could move this to continue: http://p15-d24.com/topic/41613-p19-with-dead-cylinder/page-4 Hmm yeah, I was wondering how I link the two. Should I just take it down and tack it on to the old post or...? I did do a search before I posted on removing carbon buildup etc. but didn't find much. Quote
_shel_ny Posted August 14, 2016 Report Posted August 14, 2016 (edited) Not something that has to be done, but keeping it all in one thread preserves the continuity of the process that you are following to alleviate your first problem. If you choose: You could copy and paste your post to your other thread, and then edit this one removing the text. You could just leave it as it is. You could wait and see if a mod combines the two. I could go to my corner and shut up. Threads now combined. Edited August 14, 2016 by shel_ny Quote
Fastback50 Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Posted August 14, 2016 Thanks Shel-- I was able to get the stuck valve free today, but despite working it up and down for quite a while and very liberal use of PB and ATF, it is still not wanting to move freely on its own. I figured I will just let it sit another day or two, and maybe time will sort things out. That being said, I'm not too confident that it's going to be that easy and am going to buy the tools I will need to remove and clean the valves, deck, head, and valve guides. From what I have read I will need a valve lifter tool, the lapping tool, some lapping compound, some brass brushes, and a brass pipe-cleaner/reamer for the valve guides. Any suggestions on the valve reaming tool? Somebody correct me if I'm missing something on what tools I need. Right now the head is soaking in a full strength combination of Purple Power and Simple Green to break down all the carbon deposits. Can I use a Scotch Brite and some carb cleaner on the deck surface or is there a better combination for that job. The more I get into this and learn/build confidence, the more tempting it is to just pull the whole motor lol. Quote
Fastback50 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Posted August 15, 2016 Happy birthday. Hey thanks!! Quote
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