The 49 Chrysler - an ambitious project

[rb1949]

Up in the air project.

 

 

The starter was ready for pickup after major work. A nice kink in the repair budget, but now it's as good (maybe better) as new. It appears to have been the original Chrysler/Autolite (Prestolite) starter. Even got the car painted while waiting.That dang old thing is HEAVY!  Let's get it back in. We reversed the removal process, dropping it in from the top, drive gear facing up. It just slides past all the obstacles in the way. Give it a tilt and it popped right in. Tighten up the two obnoxious bolts, attach wiring and it fired right up. The jalopy is ready for it's first newly painted cruise. Good timing as the rains came. Left it up in the air to remove the wheels and squirt some new undercoating in the fender wells. Also scrub the tires good inside and out and hit em' with Armor All. Unless you've found a better product to use. Sounds like Happy Hour to me.

Edit: The guy at the electric shop said it was perfectly OK to jump start a 6V from a 12V negative ground. And liked the idea to bypass the battery, putting ground to the block and touching the other directly to the coil terminal on the starter (with key on). Remember your positive/negative. Had to ask since jump starting is discussed a lot.

Edited July 29, 2016 by rb1949

[Bingster]

Just curious. What part of the front end are those jacks resting on?  I'm asking 'cause when I put mine up on jacks, I want them to be secure and do no damage to the car.

[rb1949]

If a bumper jack will raise the car, I sure bumper brackets are a good spot for jack stands.

[rb1949]

Finished up painting and undercoating the front wheel wells, got the tires all shined up. Slapped the wheels back on and down off the jacks to ground level. The only motion Saturday was to back it out of the drive and get it turned around. Looks better with all that chrome in the front facing the street, causing heads to turn. Some people have stopped to chat.

Errands early today then time to get to work. Cleaned & Mounted the driver mirror, it's on the door. Ordered a passenger peep mirror identical to the other, waiting to go pick it up. Wanted that cause it's 4 3/8 dia. Connected wiring in the trunk, all fine. Need to adhesive the carpet on the trunk fender wells back in place. Pulled up the floor carpet and washed it, waiting to reinstall. Attached wipers. Helper was available, so we got the VISOR BACK ON!! Ah yes, now it looks cool. Poor thing was dirty, and sticky with tree sap. (good reason to remove Indiana State Tree)  Get the hose for a quick rinse and sponge bath, and a dry. Nice and clean again. Well, been waiting for 3 weeks looking at the jalopy, let's make it roll. Off for the maiden new paint cruise. It's called the beach cruiser for a reason. Here's proof.

 

Sure does sparkle out there in the sun. Nicest car in the lot. That visor looks great.

 

 

It fits the beach scene perfectly. Time to get some sand in it. (How did the hubcaps get lined up the same?)

 

 

Painted the letters on the trunk chrome piece, now you can read the words FLUID DRIVE.

 

 

It's been a hectic 3 weeks but got a lot accomplished, and I'm one happy camper. Hope you like the beach cruiser quality. Will try to get to the local cruise-in Tue nite. I need to ask about 2 car shows at the beach coming up, would like to join in. Let's have a beer!

 

 

[Don Coatney]

You need to find a 1949 Tag. You can run such tag legally.

 

[rb1949]

While legal to register old plate with vehicle, no need. I like the owners Historical Arizona Plate. It's one of the originals made of solid copper.

[pflaming]

Park that copper plate one night at a restaurant in CA and that plate would disappear.

[50 coupe]

You need to find a 1949 Tag. You can run such tag legally.

 

49tag.jpg

Don, what is the cost to register a year specific plate here in Indiana? I have a 1950 IN plate and an appt. at the BMV but can't get a cost figure ahead of time. Just curious.

[Don Coatney]

Don, what is the cost to register a year specific plate here in Indiana? I have a 1950 IN plate and an appt. at the BMV but can't get a cost figure ahead of time. Just curious.

 

 

Click on these links.

 

 

https://secure.in.gov/bmv/files/Fee_Chart.pdf

 

https://secure.in.gov/bmv/2407.htm

[50 coupe]

Click on these links.

 

 

https://secure.in.gov/bmv/files/Fee_Chart.pdf

 

https://secure.in.gov/bmv/2407.htm

 

I had been to the website but didn't see the fee schedule. Thanks Don!!!!

 

[Don Coatney]

Your Welcome.

[rb1949]

Mr. Ambitious is back again. Hmmmm, no comments after the final picture with the visor mounted. Oh well. Great weather to be hitting the beach. Posted about my first car show, will be doing another Labor Day weekend. Hope another nearby member can make it over. Pictures so far make the car look nice, from a distance, acceptable to me. I think the painting process, at least by me, leaves a dull haze, noticeable up close. An earlier question on buffing received no advice or recommendations. So I go out and get some goop, and go at it. The corner of the roof was a good place to start. Your amateur painter was happy with the result. The photo shows before and after. This was accomplished with a compound, done by hand, with no pre-sanding involved. Not too difficult, but lots left to do, small sections at a time. Hope the rest comes out equally nice. Remember, the beast was painted outside under a tree. Once complete then there is polishing and waxing on tap. Hope the arms hold out.

[JerseyHarold]

Is the paint hard enough for vigorous buffing?   Way back when, they used to recommend waiting a few months before polishing.

[Plymouthy Adams]

if you getting a dull haze you are having issues with your paint, humidity when shooting or other similar attributing factors in your spraying process.  Blushing is more a lacquer issue over any enamel spray.   

 

what system (brand) paint are you applying...post this and someone might have some actual first hand knowledge of this base and be able to guide you as to how to correct your issues.  Nason has been the only brand of paint I have used where I have seen similar issues and were unable to explain other than the paint itself.  It did not seem to have any high quality sheen using their recommend solvents and hardeners.  Was not a good experience. 

Edited August 11, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[rb1949]

Must be 120° in the direct sun, a month of that should have helped. No problems with the buffing. Don't worry, it's a painter issue. As mentioned I'm not after perfect quality and it's coming out OK for the purpose.I may test sand a small area for smoothness ... without going through! FYI, the paint is a matching original color from TCP Global.

[Dave72dt]

What type of paint was it? Base/clear, urethane single stage, acrylic enamel?  The acrylic enamel would have more of a tendency to blush than either the base/clear of the urethane single.  I've done some TCP global B/C on one car and wasn't 100 % happy with it.  It did work better once I added some activator to it, something that was not suggested in the tech sheet, or part of the mixing instructions.  ( Do follow  prep, mixing recommendations, ratios per tech sheet.  Just because I got away with some home brewed chemistry, doesn't mean you will. )

[rb1949]

Original buff question was about Acrylic Enamel. No hardener. The TCP is good, no problem with it. Various methods are improving the appearance for beach cruiser quality. This painter is not going to get the smooth glass like finish.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I guess it is none of my business but why did you not use a hardener in that paint.  If I even shoot cheap Rustoleum on inner panels and frames or yard implements/ornaments and chairs, it is done so with a hardener...actually Rustoleum with the hardener is super glossy and will wear like a pig's nose....

[bobostski]

 If you sand lightly with 2000 grit wet and dry and lots of water with a couple of drops of dish soap for lubrication you will get a better shine. Be careful of the edges and any paint build up on the paper.

[rb1949]

This jalopy could use 50 grit and a grinder. A change of pace, finally accomplishing some interior work. Took measurements and fabricated a glove box. Took 3 times using the cheap flimsy posterboard to make a sample that fit. (Didn't have one for a pattern.) It's one piece, folded and glued. Then off to Hobby Lobby for the heavy board, some of the "stiff" felt for the inside, and adhesive. Before running off to shop there, hit their web site. They have a printable coupon every week for 40% off a single item, as many as you want. I went back 3 times. The box is quite sturdy, and a tight fit. Probably should have reduced the depth by 1" to make it easier. Got it screwed in and mounted the door. All pieces are now back in the dash. The glove box is the only storage area we have. Would like a bench seat or floor counsel but haven't spotted anything useful yet.

Using the nasty originals for the pattern, made new L-R kick panels. Picked up the good quality hardboard material and a scrap of vinyl from the local upholstery shop. Did salvage the small piece of carpet across the bottom which looks nice. Ready for installation. What's next on the list?

 

 

[Bingster]

Plymouthy,  what respirator do you wear with that hardener?  I have some Val Spar hardener that I planned to use in Rustoleum, but after reading about those hardeners and lungs, I'm wary of using just a 3M respirator mask.

[Don Coatney]

Did the vendor that sold you the Val Spar hardener not give you a MSDS indicating the correct mask and safety gear?

[Bingster]

Nope! It was on-line. Do you know the answer, Don?

[Don Coatney]

Google Valspar MSDS

[Bingster]

Plymouthy, I await an answer from you, based on your personal experience, for whom the original question was posed to.