More Windshield Gasket Questions 49 Chrysler

[rb1949]

Checked out good prior discussions, and lots of opinions on which windshield rubber to use. Mine is due, the 2 piece flat. Also checking on new glass, and if it can be cut locally. And paying attention that is has to have the "slot" rubber for the exterior stainless trim. (Which may be difficult to remove, stuck in the old, dry hard rubber.) Questions, not only on the fit of the rubber, but on the wide range of prices and what you get. It could be a roll having a seam, or a 1 piece. The less expensive rubber seems to be the perimeter of the glass. The one that cost much more says it has the center divider bar. Being 2 piece, isn't that center section necessary? Why would you replace the perimeter, and not where it seals in the center? Or does the product on a roll also fit the existing center bar? If one piece, with the bar, then the rubber has to be pre-mounted to both sides.  Tales indicate using the string/rope from the inside. With sealant. I'm hesitant about this being a DIY project. Thanks.

[Plymouthy Adams]

2 piece verses 1 piece...less chance of leak due to no gaps with the second piece that is the divider...it is only a matter of what you want to spend and how long you wish it to last once installed....suggest you re-read the articles for a clearer understanding of what is involved..as for glass..they cut it daily....however. only your local shop can quote you price and availability...they should have the NAG number/template..

[rb1949]

Obviously the divider makes it a 2 piece. Yet some sell rubber which seems to be missing that piece, so it's incomplete. Haven't found any detailed installation talk. Some say "X" doesn't fit. Others say "X" fit perfectly. Some recommend "Y" or "Z". Most fairly recent, so a bit early to determine quality/durability regardless of price. Can order glass online. Waiting to compare what local prices may be.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Only buy the complete windshield gasket with the divider rubber piece molded into it!!!!

[rb1949]

Did see that some of those with the single piece rubber 'strip' do include the center bar piece. The one piece molded does sound advantageous. Got the interior trim off, one piece. Not the center, which I see the inside strip screws into the outside chrome strip. Loosened screws to remove the outside visor. Evaluating set-up. If I have it installed, should be a savings if I can remove the old glass and rubber myself, and clean up channel. Getting it to a shop with no windshield would be windy. Holy cow, that old rubber is HARD!! Not a bit of flex. Is it correct thinking to start cutting the rubber from the inside? Heat gun to warm/soften it a bit? Then the glass should push toward the outside? The current glass isn't broken/chipped, but has some cloudy edges. Was reading that silicone sealer/adhesives may be the culprit, leaching into the laminate. Each project is try to learn as you go. No response yet to compare local glass prices. ADD EDIT: the exterior stainless trim is also quite challenging, 'stuck' into that hard rubber. Nothing thin wants to slide under it. Is it just some flat tabs that slide into a slit in the rubber? Picture by chance.

Edited May 7, 2016 by rb1949

[rb1949]

Holy Cow, no Mr. Mopars around here for windshield help. No locals cut glass. Cheaper to buy online. No comments yet on anyone else having that exterior stainless trim. One reference that knows how, won't do it because of that trim piece. Too much work(?) I would probably screw it up big time. Could opt for rubber only, and pitch the trim. The newbie is frustrated.

[Dave72dt]

I've done two vehicles, neither one a Mopar, that had exterior stainless trim in the  windshield rubber.  Two of us struggled with the first one, neither of us knowing if the stainless went in before the window install or after and the second one by myself difficult because the poor quality of the rubber itself.  If it had the stainless, struggle with it and put it in.  It's a unique piece that came with it originally. It should go back in.

[rb1949]

Still on hold. Yes, the trim looks nice. Still can't 'see' what I up against as far as how it fits. Spaced 'tabs' that go into the rubber? Lots of lubricant. Poke it in the rubber before or after. (before seems like it would help hold the rubber in place, especially on curves.) Hesitant tackling a DIY, then having nowhere to take it should it be a problem. Old posts had people getting glass cut for a fair price, but not here. That old hard rubber would take a week to cut out. The debate continues. Any input welcome for the novice.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I hear golf can be an interesting..

 

Don't believe everything you hear..

 

DIY has YOU in it.....

 

 

http://d163axztg8am2h.cloudfront.net/static/doc/c1/c2/0f9749f686cc3579cbf862336793.pdf

[austinsailor]

I'm still fighting my truck windows, but I've taken quite a few things apart. You might try cutting away the old brittle rubber with a sharp wood chisel or use a hand grinder to chew away most of it. Then remove the trim, then continue to cut the rubber, or just pry the remaining lip up and over until the window will push inside. I'm pretty sure it comes out to the inside and goes back from the inside.(Someone jump in here if that is wrong). But the main point is, parts you're not re-using can be sacrificed to get the parts out you do need. And some time spent whittling away at the old rubber is probably better spent than a lot of elegant attempts to just remove everything. Besides, what little experience I have on removing old trim like that tells me you'll never pry it out of that hard rubber without damaging it beyond use.

[Merle Coggins]

... You might try cutting away the old brittle rubber with a sharp wood chisel or use a hand grinder to chew away most of it.

 

I've found that a good sharp razor knife / utility knife / box cutter works good to cut the rubber molding off around the pinch weld, from the outside, if you're not going to reuse it. Then the old glass can be pushed into the cabin rather easily.

[rb1949]

Bowling sounds better.......at least the ball comes back to you. Sorry, nothing convincing yet. Obvious truth, you're removing something that won't be re-used. (rubber)  Hack it out.A razor knife would stay sharp for about 6" on this hard stuff. Cutting on the outside seems wrong, the trim is in the way. I do believe pushing the glass out is correct. Re-install is done using the string on the inside. Some say easy, some grunt. No pictures of the trim yet to visualize. Not even some for sale. None of the limited 49'er's here are joining in with experience. But enjoying and learning from the conversation. There has always been a tip or clue here to get the job done.

 

Edit: already read the Steele tech sheets. This stainless trim is not coming out, no matter how easy they say. But it does say put back after glass is in.

Edited May 20, 2016 by rb1949

[ptwothree]

On the '51/'52 Plymouths, the stainless trim is removed after the windshield/gasket is removed from the car.  The trim is installed into the gasket prior to being reinstalled in the car.  In other words, the trim,glass and gasket are installed as an assembly.  Your car may or may not be different.

[Dave72dt]

Cut the old rubber out with a razor knife.  It shouldn't take more than ten minutes of work to get all the way around.  You're only cutting the rubber that's between the pinch weld and the glass, about a 1/4 inch thickness is all.  You're outside stainless trim will come off with the strip of rubber you've separated with the knife and it will peel easily out of the rubber.  You will not be able to work the old rubber over the glass without the very real possibility of damaging the glass or stainless.