JSabah Posted March 10, 2016 Report Posted March 10, 2016 I have a '49 Plymouth P18 (body style is a woody) that is new to me and I am striping it down for sheet metal, paint and wood replacement. As part of the restoration, I want to remove the engine and transmission as 1 unit. I have removed the heater, fuel pump, all electrical and trans linkages etc. I see that there are 2 engine mounts in the front (high on the engine on top of a larger bracket) and 2 at the rear of the engine. I have removed the hood as well and plan to remove the starter so that it will clear the steering column and gearshift mechanism. My question is, Can I disconnect the driveshaft at the transmission and take the engine/ tranny out as 1 unit? or do I have to separate the engine from the trans at the bell housing ? Thanks, Josh 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 10, 2016 Report Posted March 10, 2016 Much easier to remove 4 bolts and the linkage to drop the transmission. Then pull the engine. 2 Quote
_shel_ny Posted March 10, 2016 Report Posted March 10, 2016 Takes a lot of tilting to clear the radiator/grill/etc if removed as a unit. A leveler would be required in addition to the engine hoist. Quote
James_Douglas Posted March 10, 2016 Report Posted March 10, 2016 STOP! When I went to put the engine and transmission back into my 1949 Desoto Convertible we ran into a problem. It turns out that in 1949 when they re-did the body style they made the body section over the transmission tighter. In most of the cars it is not an issue and you can get the engine and transmission in or out as a unit. What I found out in that on the convertibles and on the woodies (at least with Desoto) they did NOT use any body rubber mounts. They just placed a extra thick steel washer between the frame and the body. What this does is lower the body. The little lip on the bottom of the transmission will not clear the cross member. We had to take the things back out and take the transmission off, put the engine in and the put the trans in from the bottom. I confirmed this with several 1949 Convertible owners. The master parts books show no body rubber for convertible or woodie. I suspect this was so that the door/body alignment would not sag and cause issues. We did not have the front sheet metal on it at the time and so in theory we should have been able to slip the engine and trans in easy just like my 47. Be warned! James Quote
Tom Skinner Posted March 10, 2016 Report Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) JSabah, Don is right. James is Right. Pull/Drop the Tranny off of the Bell Housing. Then pull the engine, You will bang everything up otherwise. Tom Edited March 10, 2016 by Tom Skinner 1 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 10, 2016 Report Posted March 10, 2016 Only way... pull the transmission. Quote
suntennis Posted March 10, 2016 Report Posted March 10, 2016 If you get the front end high enough (like have the front tires 8 inches off the ground) with the aid of a floor jack you will be able to lower the transmission and roll it under the engine out of the way. I made a wood holder for the transmission and balanced everything on the floor jack. This method allows you to get the job done if you are working alone. Quote
JSabah Posted March 10, 2016 Author Report Posted March 10, 2016 Thanks for the very quick and helpful replies. As I mentioned, I am just starting this '49 Plymouth Woody restoration (to a very nice driver) and I appreciate the help I'm certain to receive here as this is my 1st resto of this type of car (done English and Italian in the past, but not American, and not wood. Next move, tranny will be out. Quote
RodFru2u Posted March 10, 2016 Report Posted March 10, 2016 Good Luck on the engine and tranny pull out and welcome to the Forum Josh. Where in Los Angeles are you ? Plenty of shows coming up, might even see a few vintage mopar. Your woodie project sounds GREAT, Looking forward to updates. Rod ( in east LA ) Quote
dale Posted March 10, 2016 Report Posted March 10, 2016 Remove the trns first.. You will most likely want to replace the clutch, release bearing and press plate anyway. Quote
James_Douglas Posted March 10, 2016 Report Posted March 10, 2016 Good lick on the engine pull and the work on the car. I only get on this forum from time to time these days. If you need to talk with me, drop me an email. Take MORE photos that you think you need before you take anything apart. As an aside on the 1946 to 1948 Desoto's one can take out the engine and trans as a unit from the front. It is real easy if you take "the dog house" off and that is pretty easy as well. In 1949 they changed the front sheet metal and there is no "dog house" that one can get off easy like the older versions. Best, James Quote
JSabah Posted March 10, 2016 Author Report Posted March 10, 2016 Again, Thanks guys. I am in the San Fernando Valley (Encino, Reseda) and hope to meet some of you at car shows around. I know of the Spring (and Fall) Flings at Woodley park.... Any others? Josh Quote
RodFru2u Posted March 11, 2016 Report Posted March 11, 2016 Hey Josh, Yes the Mopar Spring Fling is a Great Show and Swap Meet, I try and go to both the spring and fall flings for parts. There are FEW Mopar/Dodge shows but I check out all the auto swap meets I can find,Never know what you might find. I use to live in Encino/Reseda area ( White oak & Oxnard ) in the 80's . Might check out Socalcarculture.com for car events. Lots to do and see. The Spring Fling this year is April 23 - 24, 2016. I will be there, Still need stuff, Always need stuff, Never have enough stuff. Maybe meet you somewhere out there. Rod Quote
CowboyConnor Posted March 11, 2016 Report Posted March 11, 2016 Removing the transmission isn't too bad if you've got the car on jack stands. I took a smaller floor jack under with me, pumped it up so when the transmission came loose the jack could hold its weight. I then slowly let it down and rolled it out from under the car. After that, pulling the engine was a breeze. Hope it all works out for you! Quote
JSabah Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Posted March 16, 2016 All items that would have been in the way of the engine came out yesterday as well as the driveshaft and transmission. Engine came out today as well as the fuel tank, fuel line and all of the wiring harnesses (dash items were last weeks project along with all bright work and wood doors). Thanks for all the advice so far.... I am a novice at this so please expect and excuse what might be dumb questions. A few questions that came up from the past few days work. 1. The Fluid drive housing has a small tear in it (car hasn't run in 40 years). Can this be welded/repaired? 2. I used the center head bolt 2nd from the rear to attach my listing chain and noticed that coolant came out. Normal? Or do I have a head gasket issue (previous owner said that the original engine had been replaced with I believe a '52 and had just had rings installed before it retired to the barn). 3. Gas tank is full of crud and I was going to have my local radiator shop boil it out along with the radiator. Is it a problem for the Oilite filter in there? Anything special that needs to be done or that I should make sure of? 4. Replacement fuel and brake lines. Do most go with steel, stainless steel or copper-nickel ? I've used the Cu-Ni (brand name Cunifer) in the past and making flairs was a breeze and had no leaks/seepage. Quote
wayfarer Posted March 16, 2016 Report Posted March 16, 2016 1. The Fluid drive housing has a small tear in it (car hasn't run in 40 years). Can this be welded/repaired? Tear? How about a photo? Quote
James_Douglas Posted March 17, 2016 Report Posted March 17, 2016 All items that would have been in the way of the engine came out yesterday as well as the driveshaft and transmission. Engine came out today as well as the fuel tank, fuel line and all of the wiring harnesses (dash items were last weeks project along with all bright work and wood doors). Thanks for all the advice so far.... I am a novice at this so please expect and excuse what might be dumb questions. A few questions that came up from the past few days work. 1. The Fluid drive housing has a small tear in it (car hasn't run in 40 years). Can this be welded/repaired? 2. I used the center head bolt 2nd from the rear to attach my listing chain and noticed that coolant came out. Normal? Or do I have a head gasket issue (previous owner said that the original engine had been replaced with I believe a '52 and had just had rings installed before it retired to the barn). 3. Gas tank is full of crud and I was going to have my local radiator shop boil it out along with the radiator. Is it a problem for the Oilite filter in there? Anything special that needs to be done or that I should make sure of? 4. Replacement fuel and brake lines. Do most go with steel, stainless steel or copper-nickel ? I've used the Cu-Ni (brand name Cunifer) in the past and making flairs was a breeze and had no leaks/seepage. The fluid dive, unlike a torque converter, is a sealed item. If it has had a tear in it for 40 years then the superfine polish face on the carbon (graphite) seal no doubt has rust on it. Also, because it is sealed it develops a LOT of internal pressure when it is hot. One can get hurt with flying fluid if the plug is unscrewed when hot. Ask me how I know this! Fluid couplings are easy to get. Ask around on this forum as someone in the LA area will be doing a hot rod and junking their fluid coupling and trans. Just go find a solid one. James. Quote
JSabah Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Posted March 17, 2016 Now that I'm not so tired and have a chance to look at it , it appears too uniform to be a tear. Here are two pics of the area (below are some additional pics of the engine as I am not 100% sure of what I have as it was supposedly from a '50 donner car. (Why my pics are loading upside down is a mystery to me ... They are correct on my computer .. Sorry) Quote
JSabah Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Posted March 17, 2016 Now that I'm not so tired and have a chance to look at it , it appears too uniform to be a tear. Here are two pics of the area (below are some additional pics of the engine as I am not 100% sure of what I have as it was supposedly from a '50 donner car. (Why my pics are loading upside down is a mystery to me ... They are correct on my computer .. Sorry) Quote
JSabah Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Posted March 17, 2016 Additional engine number pic and transmission pics... Quote
JSabah Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Posted March 17, 2016 Again sorry they are upside down Quote
JSabah Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Posted March 17, 2016 (edited) Question about the trans. The lever attached to the top of the trans seems to operate a hi gear, neutral and a lower gear. The lever attached to the side seems not to do much of anything. I am operating them by hand and turning the shaft by hand.... Do I need to take it to a transmission shop? Edited March 17, 2016 by JSabah Quote
_shel_ny Posted March 17, 2016 Report Posted March 17, 2016 (edited) That "tear" is a slit/slot drain. That is the cover. It is not the fluid coupling itself. Edited March 17, 2016 by shel_ny Quote
Niel Hoback Posted March 17, 2016 Report Posted March 17, 2016 That's not the fluid coupling and it's not a tear. That's a drain in the clutch cover to let out any splashed up water and leaking oil from the rear main oil seal. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.