Rear Main Seals

[Branded]

I see there are two style rear main seals available, can either be used.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Dodge-201-228-230-251-265-Rubber-Bolt-On-Rear-Main-Seal-Set-BEST-34-60-/171167764871?fits=Year%3A1949%7CModel%3AWayfarer&hash=item27da64d187:g:pLwAAMXQAI9SJhAp&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Dodge-201-218-228-230-251-265-Rope-Rear-Main-Seal-Set-BEST-1933-60-/151114979633?fits=Year%3A1949%7CModel%3AWayfarer&hash=item232f279931:g:XYcAAOxylh1SJg3W&vxp=mtr

[plyroadking]

I've found it depends on what's there when you pull it apart, my 1955 230 uses this one

https://egge.com/part/bst-1510-3675/

[Branded]

Thanks, I pulled the engine today to detail and replace welsh plugs. I'll have to clean things up to seal what I have I suppose. From what I've read if the rear seal is the rope style the normally start leaking again in a short time. Don't know this a fact, just what I've read posted here.

[knuckleharley]

Thanks, I pulled the engine today to detail and replace welsh plugs. I'll have to clean things up to seal what I have I suppose. From what I've read if the rear seal is the rope style the normally start leaking again in a short time. Don't know this a fact, just what I've read posted here.

The rope main seals are coated with what LOOKS like,but might not be,wax. Eventually the protective cover gets washed away from the hot oil,and they get saturated and turn hard. When that happens,they start to leak.

 

It is POSSIBLE that with the newer and better oils we have today that this might not be as much of a problem,but I wouldn't bet on that being the case.

 

IF there is some sort of conversion kit that does away with the rope seals,I'd install one while the engine is out of the car.

 

I know from my teen experiences with the rope seals in Y-Block Ford engines that there are kits made that can be bought at Pep Boys,Napa,etc,etc,etc that have tools that allow you to pull an old seal from the block by removing the rear main cap and loosening the other caps,and then replacing it with a new seal using a "chinese fingers" device. Pretty simple job that requires a lot of time and labor,but there are probably no other options.

[MarkAubuchon]

Im going thru the change right now with my 49 Plymouth.  I am finding the easiest to use is the first one identified. the seal that is built into the metal flanges

[Branded]

Dumb question, what are the rubber pieces shaped like a 4 used for. My shop manual make no mention of those.

[Niel Hoback]

When you drop the rear main cap you will see them between the bearing halves.

[Don Coatney]

[Branded]

Picture is worth a thousand words. So I'm guessing 2 in the main cap and 2 in the block.

Thanks Dave

[busycoupe]

I think that only two are used but the kit includes two different styles. When you take down the bearing cap you will see which pair you need.

[Plymouthy Adams]

per the book, the rear main seals are not interchangeable and that they are production run constraints.  52 and earlier uses the rope seal with retainer gasket.

 

the style change was introduced in 1953

 

number checks should tell you prior to tear down what part you will need..

[Don Coatney]

Picture is worth a thousand words. So I'm guessing 2 in the main cap and 2 in the block.

Thanks Dave

[Branded]

per the book, the rear main seals are not interchangeable and that they are production run constraints.  52 and earlier uses the rope seal with retainer gasket.

 

the style change was introduced in 1953

 

number checks should tell you prior to tear down what part you will need..

Mine is a 1949 the motor # matches the title to the car. Mine isn't the rope style it is the 2 piece bolt on style.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Mine is a 1949 the motor # matches the title to the car. Mine isn't the rope style it is the 2 piece bolt on style.

that sir is the rope style...please consult your repair manual...

[Branded]

that sir is the rope style...please consult your repair manual...

So, this is what your calling the rope style. This is what I removed from my engine

[Plymouthy Adams]

Branded, on 18 Jan 2016 - 4:48 PM, said:

So, this is what your calling the rope style. This is what I removed from my engineimage.jpeg

yes, however again I ask, have you consulted your repair manual...both styles are pictured and the application for each is given in detail...not trying to be smart here but they went to great efforts to point this out in the book and give an identification picture and description of each...

[Branded]

I have the shop manual in front off me figure 6 page 22 of section 8

Shows a cap gasket, the pieces shaped like a 4

The bearing

Bearing cap

Oil seal (that I have shown in picture above)

Seal retainer bolts, 3 bolts per half

[Branded]

Hopefully we can solve this issue

[Branded]

[Plymouthy Adams]

any manual you have that depicts a rear seal before the introduction of the new style in 1953 will be the rope style and will also have another gasket that will seal the two bearing halves to the block...they could not see into the future to say, we will change this in 1953, again not trying to be smart but per the application I listed in my first response...engines prior to 1953 use the seal you show..it is referred to as the rope seal...it also has a second sealing gasket on install...

 

as has been mentioned here many times by myself..the Dodge books are not as descriptive as the Plymouth manual..and I admit my reference is the 46-54 Plymouth book...my only Dodge book is 41-48 and thus will not show the second style as it predates 1953  You did not reference any book by page and paragraph till asked by myself..and it (Dodge book 41-48) shows the very seal in that book as you removed from your engine...thus the style of seal is set in stone...

[Lloyd]

I guess I got lost somewhere but isnt the pic of the oil seal retainer and not the oil seal itself? That piece goes behind the main bearing cap. The oil seal fits into the cap and is indeed either rope or the newer rubber kind.

[Branded]

Not trying to be smart either and thanks for your help. As you can see by the picture I supplied of my seal, is this the only rear seal I can expect to find on my engine. I can't imagine there being 2 rear main seals. I'm not planning on pulling the rear bearing cap if I don't need to. I don't want to take a chance disturbing the bearing. Thanks for the help Plymouthy

[Branded]

I guess I got lost somewhere but isnt the pic of the oil seal retainer and not the oil seal itself? That piece goes behind the main bearing cap. The oil seal fits into the cap and is indeed either rope or the newer rubber kind.

So your saying there are actually 2 seals? The retainer and seal I shown in the earlier picture are molded together as one piece.

[Lloyd]

No never mind. Its been a while since I put the crank in my engine but I just looked at an engine diagram. I was thinking of a later model engine that has the rope seal in the main cap. Should have just kept my mouth shut.

I can say that I rebuilt a 218 that came from 1950 plymouth. It had rope seals and I replaced it with the newer 2 piece Fel-Pro. Seems to work well so far.

[Branded]

What's got me confused is Plymouthy says (if I understand him correctly) the flanged style I removed and have shown in the picture didn't come about until the 53 model year. My 49-52 shop manual clearly shows the flanged style in the book that I have also posted a picture of. With that said regardless the engine would only have one type of rear seal either the rope or the flange type but not both. So I'm assuming what I need to buy and replace is the flange style seal like I removed.